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How did they do this? Mid-engine

Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2004 6:23 pm
by X19Guy
Want I want to acheive for my kit car has been done 30 years ago:

http://nova-international.net/data/chassis3n.jpg

How?

Is it true you can just rotate the drive assembly 180 degrees so the engine is in the middle not rear?

Thanx,

Mark

Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2004 7:22 pm
by yllwveedub
Definatly not that easy. If you just rotate the drive assembly as you described you will have 4 speeds of reverse (might be kinda fun, but probably not what you are looking for) Take a look at this thread?

http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=33496

The car in that picture doesn?t even have an aircooled vw motor on it. Notice the radiator up front? although I?m sure how well it is working with no coolant lines connecting them :wink:

~Josh

Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2004 8:28 pm
by letterman7
I remember that guy's conversion. If I can relocate the thread, I'll post it. If memory serves, the motor is an Alfa motor, with a Porsche 901 tranny behind it, and he flipped the R&P to get the gearing right. You can do the same thing with a standard VW tranny and motor - the Speedster builders have been doing it for years. The trick is to get the linkage to work right, since it's much further back and on the wrong side.
There's alot of info on that Nova website, especially on mid engine setups that people have tried. The best thing seems to be a custom chassis to hold everything in place rather than the modified Bug chassis.

Rick

Posted: Wed Nov 10, 2004 4:53 am
by ecdez
Here's a picture of chassis from the same site. They are probably using one of these on that car.

Image

There's a kit made for sand rails that has all the stuff you need for mid-engine shift linkage. Pretty neat stuff. If I can dig it up, I'll post it.

Posted: Wed Nov 10, 2004 5:35 am
by X19Guy
Thanx guys thats good stuff.

Rick, thanks for ur info. It is preferrable for me to use an existing chassis as this will make registering a home-built car MUCH easier in Australia. A sub frame is needed to pass the rigidity test, so spose this can also be used to mount the engine.

Ecdez, thanks for the reply. The info on the sand rail linkage would be invaluable and much appreciated if u could find the link.

Thanx,

Mark

Posted: Wed Nov 10, 2004 8:31 am
by ecdez
Here's one link. It's the third item down.

https://www.gex.com/74BrkCltch&Tran.htm



Here's another. It's toward the bottom.

http://www.funrunr.com/jamar.htm

Posted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 9:48 pm
by 4vertical
The tranny from a 914 Porsche is set to be run mid engine. it is also a 5 speed. Don't know about down under but the ones I have have the linkage on the same side as the driver(left). They are referred to as the 901 tranny. said to have a weak first gear, but the live behind some v8 swaps. Hope that helps?!

Aaron

Posted: Fri Nov 12, 2004 4:53 am
by ecdez
There are two different 914 trannys. One is a side shift and one is a rear shift. Both connect on the drivers side, but the side shift (late model 914) is generally accepted as better in most information I've read. I was considering doing a V8 swap in mine so I did a little research and of all the V8 swaps I've seen, all the people say they don't even use 1st gear, just start out in 2nd. I did run into one guy who had his tranny built to match the engine so he could use all the gears. He said it was a blast to drive but the tranny mods cost him close to $2000 :shock: . I guess that's O.K. if you got the money.

Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2004 3:46 am
by speedster356
Mark, going mid mounted will put your project into the ICV catagory (Individually Constructed Vehicle) here in australia even if you use a stock pan. Are you thinking rebodied original?......then the pan and engine/running gear must be as per the original build and the new body must meet all current ADRs.
Also there is no ADR for chassis torsional strength but it must be up to the approval standard as required by your assigned engineering signatory.
cheers

Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2004 7:33 am
by X19Guy
Hi speedster356,

Thanx for the message...just before i read your post i got an email from my engineer (as VicRoads Approved) saying that the cost dfference for him to check a modified bug pan compared to a completely new chassis is "not much". He quoted $800 - $1000, without the tortion test. What do you think of that?

It's good to meet another aussie here...anyone else you know around?

Thanx,

Mark

Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2004 12:24 pm
by Guest
I like the sound of this engineer..... :D can you drop me an email off-line.
cheers

Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2004 12:27 pm
by speedster356
Oops, forgot to log in on the post above.

Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2004 8:45 pm
by eureka
Mark,
did you have a look at that Eureka with the mid-mounted Renault engine? might give you some ideas. Think it's still for sale too.

It's a Manta Montage

Posted: Sat Apr 02, 2005 9:21 pm
by didget69
The red car in the picture is a Manta Montage - engine I believe was/is a Ford Kent 1600 series engine - Trans is regular Type 1 4 speed with flipped R&P - trouble is, the driving force is now placed on backside of tooth, which is weaker area...

Manta Montage was replica of McLaren M6GT from late '60's - early '70's.

Bryan in NC

Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2005 12:07 pm
by Guest
The gearbox out of a porsche 924/944 would be perfect for this
or 80/90 audis same box cheaper to buy
look on http://www.lambolounge.com
this site has loads on mid engine
look under audi 5000