Hybrid Engine Project

[jonas_linder]

this project is so cool!! Keep it up

[Guest]

That is an awesome project and the engineering looks superb! But...Your goal is 200hp naturally aspirated. I would think that your daily driver 2332 would make that w/o the turbo! My 2387 natural aspirated does. Alot of work for 200hp. Dont get me wrong, I totally admire your work and ideas, I guess this is a test bed for enormous hp in the next build!

[iswinkels]

Yeah sure its a lot of work, but in the end if all goes will it will have cost about $1500-2000 to engineer the conversion. Considering the cost of a pair of top of the line CB comp eliminators cost me $2300 to land here in australia I think its worth it in the long run.

Less maintenance, no valve adjustments and a lot more potential for serious revs. Plus it will be a very unique engine. Its just a shame it won't be legal to turbo it in a myers manx over here in australia. I think it would handle 30lb and be good for 400-450hp otherwise.

Cheers,

[Guest]

I think a huge difference is reliability. that 2387 is a pretty good motor but I don't think you can pull it to redline all day long. if you do in those engines you are always worried about hearing them pop. then there goes another 4g. I had a 2332 and popped that thing and decided bug power has gotta go. I just got through sellin off all my bug engines and parts. nothing but h2O bugs and busses from now on.

[8smokingbarrels]

Fantasitic project and great pictures.

Out of interest- what are the main benefits of using the VW crankcase as opposed to staying with the subaru?

chris

[Daniel G]

Fantasitic project and great pictures.

Out of interest- what are the main benefits of using the VW crankcase as opposed to staying with the subaru?

chris

Cheaper bottom end parts, and the fact that it would bolt up to a vw tranny without needing an adapter.


Daniel

[Guest]

I think a huge difference is reliability. that 2387 is a pretty good motor but I don't think you can pull it to redline all day long. if you do in those engines you are always worried about hearing them pop. then there goes another 4g. I had a 2332 and popped that thing and decided bug power has gotta go. I just got through sellin off all my bug engines and parts. nothing but h2O bugs and busses from now on.

I agree that they will not stand up to full revs all day long, but what engine will outside of an Indy car or something? Even they are probably electronically rev limited before their actual top rpm capability can be reached. Did your 2322's failure have anything to do with the top end of motor , or was it main or rod bearing as is usually the case with a stroker? Guess it could've dropped a valve.
He's still got that stressed out VW bottom end! I'm not knocking you or the guy who is doing the subbie heads, cause I damn sure couldnt do that myself! I just enjoy an informed debate!!LOL (In fact I'm building a 3.8 GM powered Baja myself for the wife! Reliable torque-monster)

[Hemitheus]

You are a mad man.... I LOVE IT. this is truly genius in the making. Well done.

[odwagerty]

what is the cooling going to be?

[iswinkels]

It was going to be water and air cooled, and forced induction.

The project has sat idle for nearly a year now due to the person I was building it for loosing interest in vw's all together.

I want to finish it some day but i've been too busy lately too running my business, trying to get my own VW project, and chasing skirt.

It will happen probably over the next year - year 1/2.

[runslikeapenguin]

i just started reading this and you really need to finish this, its increadable, way to think outside the box

[iswinkels]

It ended up a lot further developed than in those pictures. The were the early conceptual part of the project.

I finished the timing gear spacers, and sorted out the timing belt drive for the most part.

All that remained to do was making a bearing support system for the front of the timing belt pullys, making an aluminium timing belt backing plate (that would also support the fronts of the pullies and cams), setting up the camshaft timing and making some intake manifolds to support a pair of webbers to allow the initial startup of the engine, and last of all the oil supply and returns for the heads.

Later it would be converted to EFI.

This is a pic of the engine as it sits now. The pullies are fitted with spun aluminium spacers that interference fit the pullies and fronts of the camshafts. The head studs are 12mm 4340 chromoly custom, and bolt to the stud adapter plate which bolts to the case. The cylinders were cut to the correct deck height, and seal against the stud adapter plate but support the piston all the way into the case.

At the head end, the alloy plates that bolt to the heads seal off the water galleries and oil supply gallery. Oil supply will be done via the factory turbo oil supply fitting.







I'll finish it one day...

[Unkl Ian]

VERY interesting.

How much wider is the motor,compared to a stock Type 1 ?

[iswinkels]

Width is about the same, but because the subaru heads are twin cam and the rocker covers are so much larger it would still require engine bay clearencing. Compare a type 1 head and they are only wide at the bottom of the head where the rocker cover is, where as these are wide accross the entire head.

This engine has 5.7" rods in it too, so that would make it a little wider as well.

Project is on hold till next year. Im working on my own car at the moment instead but ill be getting back on this when i have more time.

[Unkl Ian]

What hold the Aluminum plate on the bottom of the cylinder head ?

One thing I can't get over,is the fact that Subaru
only uses 6 studs to hold a head on.

The air cooled VW use 6,SBC has 5 around each cyl.






Still trying to figure out how to put SBC heads on an aircooled motor.