HELP with My Garrett Turbo ANYONE? :) please?

[goatmaster187]

The t3 series of Garrett turbos might be the ticket for you. First of all it depends on the size of your engine the t3 line was put on cars ranging from 2.1-2.3 liters. If you have a big enough motor this will probably work. Check out one of the popular distributors of turbos, they will usually have formulas for figuring turbo size for a given application. Good places to start would be Turbocity, Turbonetics, Ray Hall turbo, or Gale Banks.
Happy boostin'
Austin

[Muffler Mike]

This is what i think
since you have it already, that must mean it was FREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!
correct?
try it, whats the worst that can happen. it will not come on boost that good?

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Muffler Mike
www.MufflerMike.com

[PapaG]

You tell them Mike... Hey if it sucks the you have it all setup for the next turbo!!!

[69bajakid]

i have been told that this turbo is an
AiResearch TBO 305

in physical size it does not look that much smaller or bigger then a turbo off a 2.0L car..thats why i ask
anyone know anything about a AiResearch TBO 305 turbo? and if it could be used on something smaller then a 4.9L motor??

it was free..and im sure i could get a smaller turbo free..but i doubt it would be new..and i know this will work...well..of course it will work somewhat..its just is it worth it..i figure though.. smaller turbo..a motor around 2.0-2.4L with dubble the RPM LOL i just dont want to end up wasting time and money on something like this..

but now i know the turbo..just need to find some specs on it..

thanx
Cale

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"Its not how big you build it, Its how you build it big"

[Steve Arndt]

Run it man! All the work of the install is in plumbing. Swapping the turbo later if it lags too much is only a few nuts and clamps!
Steve

[Searoy]

Sounds to me like an invitation to build the largest engine you can possible build. This could be a race case based engine, or a wasser case based engine. Even then you might be looking at some turbo lag, but the boost you get should be thermally efficient (not heated much by the boosting) and there will be plenty of room left over. You can even rev it as high as you dare.

The second option is something that I've mentioned before and everyone else rolled their eyes. Staged turbos. Basically you have a really big turbo with the air output going into the input of a slightly smaller turbo (depending on your boost levels, anywhere from 1/2 to 1/3 the size of the big turbo). The first big turbo boosts the air to the second smaller turbo, while the second smaller turbo makes quicker boost for less lag. What you wind up with is a complicated (very complicated) turbo engine that makes modest but ample boost very quickly and keeps making boost more and more the higher you rev with no end it sight. Boost pressures up to around 60 psi are possible, with 45 psi being a practical (well, not really very practical) limit in the VW engine. So have the TO 305 pumping air into a T3 and go racing!

Another option, equally upopular, was to build a high torque engine and run a really big turbo on it. The idea is that at lower RPM the boost is not needed and the turbo can't produce any, but at higher RPMs the engine is not efficient enough on it's own to make power without boost. This is typical of high torque low RPM engines. However, with a massive turbo on it the turbo will provide boost during the decline of the engines NA efficieny, providing enough air pressure to overcompensate for low VE. With massive torque in lower RPMs lag would be unnoticable.

That's the theory anyway.

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*** Teach a Man to Fish ***
Searoy

"I tend to lean toward a tighter gap and a
looser skirt....a little slap never hurt." -- Joe of the West

[This message has been edited by Searoy (edited 11-29-2001).]

[Marty]

Searoy - your high torque motor combo is right on. I have done it with an overly "loose" turbine housing. The motor was an 86 x 94 motor and it did not make any boost until I was in third gear. I left the line basically on the motor but with the big crank it still left plenty hard but not too violently. The most boost I could make was 20 pounds and that was with the wastegate blocked off! Read no wastegate. I tell you what though when it finally did spool up it was white knuckle time. This combo was completely streetable and rather conservative really. After a whole year of screwing around on the street and racing I tore it down and everything (rod bearings etc.) looked brand new. The thing only leaked 4% after all that also.
Its a good combo that wont break parts.
Also, I did not break any trannies the whole year either. I figure it had 200 HP when I left the line and 350 at around 1/2 track. Kind of a staged power scenario.

[Steve Arndt]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Marty:
<B>Searoy - your high torque motor combo is right on. I have done it with an overly "loose" turbine housing. The motor was an 86 x 94 motor and it did not make any boost until I was in third gear. I left the line basically on the motor but with the big crank it still left plenty hard but not too violently. The most boost I could make was 20 pounds and that was with the wastegate blocked off! Read no wastegate. I tell you what though when it finally did spool up it was white knuckle time. This combo was completely streetable and rather conservative really. After a whole year of screwing around on the street and racing I tore it down and everything (rod bearings etc.) looked brand new. The thing only leaked 4% after all that also.
Its a good combo that wont break parts.
Also, I did not break any trannies the whole year either. I figure it had 200 HP when I left the line and 350 at around 1/2 track. Kind of a staged power scenario.</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


Cool post. Of course a little 25 shot of laughing gas would help to spool that baby right up!
Steve

[69bajakid]

OK well doing some reaserch on this turbo shows me that the main problem with the lower HP output of the turbo 301 trans am was that the turbo it came with (the one i have) is more of a V6 style turbo and really had no place on a V8 anyhow..it has a built in waste gate wich was factory set at 10 PSI but i have modded it so i can have i think up to 16 PSI...i would really only want 10 or so im thinking...

sounds like this turbo would be good on a big type 4..altho i really dont lilke the idea of type 4 and turbo..86x94 type 1 would be sweet..i need a motor for my baja bug but i think this turbo would be better on a street machine..
i just wish the type 1 could have a larger bore then 94mm!

i have a mint 1975 fuel injected block that i could build up off of..
but have no idea about this wasser case stuff..anyone want to point me in a direction?

i was thinking if i built a baja bug motor
using stock low compression 94mm pitions with a stroker crank and rods..prob 78mm cuz that seems to be all thats really worth trying to fit in the type 4 block..

78x103mm type 4 would be mint for this combo..or even larger crank if you can make it fit..but then you have head leakage..
LOL maybe the turbo type 4 was never really ment to happen..

anyone have any suggestions?

thanx
Cale




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"Its not how big you build it, Its how you build it big"

[Sidewalk]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Steve Arndt:
<B>Run it man! All the work of the install is in plumbing. Swapping the turbo later if it lags too much is only a few nuts and clamps!
Steve</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
That is what I would do. A slow spooling turbo for now is better then N/A. When you can, swap it out for a better one. You never now, it might work out great.

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'59 Bug-A few tricks here and there.
Stella

[Searoy]

but have no idea about this wasser case stuff..anyone want to point me in a direction?[/QUOTE]

Do a search for "oxyboxer" I think.

Basically you take a WBX case and machine off the waterjackets. Then you have several options. If you run race heads with 101 stud pattern you just install 94mm P&Cs and go. Or you can bore it for 101.6 pistons and go. If you choses to run regular T1 heads you fill the stud holes and rebore, or use an offset instert, then run 94 T1 P&C. Or you can fill the stud holes and rebore them for T4 studs, bore the case for the appropriate size and run anything from T4 90mms to T4 106mms.

The crank is a T1 spaced unit using T4 sized bearings. So you buy a large stroker crank with T4 mains and drop it in with T4 bearngs. You can get a flange, wedgemate or standard flywheel end. For the kind of torque your talking about you might want to run a flange, so the case would need to be machined for this as well. That means you can run anyhting from 2110 (94x76 stock wBX crank is 76mm) to 3177 (106x90) on T1 street, T1 race, specialty T1 or T4 (even specialty T4, like Remmelle or Pauter) heads.

Cam is T1. Lifters are T4. Pushrod tubes are unique to the WBX, so take care of them or be prepared tomake them.
The main bearing boring and flange boring, as well as the P&C boring is standard stuff. Machinig off the waterjackets is pretty straightforward.

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*** Teach a Man to Fish ***
Searoy

"I tend to lean toward a tighter gap and a
looser skirt....a little slap never hurt." -- Joe of the West

[gatorvws]

Here is the a link for oxyboxer conversion.

http://www.gearheads.dk/oxyboxer.htm

Alan

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"Hot rodding is mega ingenuity - not mega bucks"

[This message has been edited by gatorvws (edited 11-30-2001).]

[69bajakid]

Hey everyone

here is the deal
I have a brand new garrett turbo..i hear talk about t25 t3 t4 all the time in the VW world..

well this turbo is off a V8 301 pontiac motor. and all my sences say that the fact that this turbo was factory on a V8 makes it to big for VW.. but i just need to be told by someone who knows..its hard to look at a brand new turbo and think its no good to you

on the exhaust housing it says:
A/R.82 M3 G2 335/84
on the intake it says:
A/R.60 M10 SAC2 351PM
S/N 0fr0477
P/N 10013333

will this turbo work on a larger like 2.2L high revving motor? is it really even that big? i think its set up for 2" exhaust..

i would love to be able to use this turbo..but if i cant i cant..

let me know what you think please

thanx
Cale

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"Its not how big you build it, Its how you build it big"

[69bajakid]

this WBX thing looks kewl..
i went to that web page...almost looks like if you want to keep it on the mild side it would not be all that much more expensive in the end to buy a new race case..but my question for all you is these 101.6mm pistions..im assuming that you would use the stock wider stud patten of the WBX as a 101.6mm bore would really munch into the block and i think it would cut into a stock type 1 stud would it not?

so lets say i had this WBX case..even used a 76mm crank just for the hell of it..used a type 1 cam..cut the water jackets off..used a type 4 lifter..that leaves heads..what heads are out there for 101.6mm bore and WBX stud pattern? and where would i find a 101.6mm cyl set with WBX stud pattern?

thanx
Cale

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"Its not how big you build it, Its how you build it big"

[Searoy]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 69bajakid:
<B>so lets say i had this WBX case..even used a 76mm crank just for the hell of it..used a type 1 cam..cut the water jackets off..used a type 4 lifter..that leaves heads..what heads are out there for 101.6mm bore and WBX stud pattern? and where would i find a 101.6mm cyl set with WBX stud pattern?
</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

The head stud pattern on the WBX is the same as the 101.6 head spacing. That means heads set up to run 101.6, like most aftermarket race heads (autocraft, pauter, big superflows, some SHOs) will bolt on. Not so good for a daily driver.

Rumor control has it that the 911 shroud from Oliver (sold at [url=http://www.aircooled.net)]www.aircooled.net)[/url] will keep it cool. Those words, however, did not come from aircooled.net or Oliver. I say it's worth a shot.

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*** Teach a Man to Fish ***
Searoy

"I tend to lean toward a tighter gap and a
looser skirt....a little slap never hurt." -- Joe of the West