Hi everyone, question:
In this 2110 type I, I'm building I'm looking for high oil pressure. I have the by-pass to the oil cooler (not plugged it off) but I made up a stainless steel line and drilled out the smaller of the two oil cooler holes and made it seven sixteenth just like the one that its next to. So here goes, I have a 3.5 berg sump, orberg filter and will have a 72pass messa oil cooler. There are no rubber grommets to split or rupture. I need to know how to stop the oil pressure from by-passing back into the sump. I bought a millings thirty millimeter pump and I wanted the high pressure spring kit, but the sell man at Kustom one said I did not need both. So I choose the millings and a stock spring kit. He also said that to much oil pressure would wash away the babit on the berings.. Now the pressure that I want is idle 40psi and at 3000rpm 60psi would this pressure wash away the babit lining on my Glyco berings? Also I would need high pressure to aid in the cooler and turbo. Give me your imput
oil pressure
- Muffler Mike
- Posts: 3186
- Joined: Tue Feb 20, 2001 12:01 am
oil pressure
Never heard of washing the babit off of bearings from too high oil pressure.
Shoot, last few years I have had lots of oil pressure. At least I think I did. When I rapped the throttle, I would watch my pressure guage on the motor and see it hit 100 psi. and never seen this sort of problem. And I know it never dropped below 30psi as I have a big idiot light set up with a 30 lbs sender.
But on to your question. I think what you are putting in should be more then adequate. With my new turbo set up, id did notice a drop in oil pressure because of the open line going t the turbo, but noting to worry about. Although now after a hard pass, after the oil is warmed up, it will idle right at 30 lbs. But I am also using a 5-50 synthetic oil that may affect what my oil pressure is at hot and cold differently then a standard oil. (probably runs between 60-80 on high rpm now)
Because of my paranoid actions in the past, I have been leaving out the crush seal washer from the back spring plug. I put a few dabs of silicone on the threads and screw it in. No leaks and the added .040-050? more height on the spring. Too much pressure will create different problems. I found that much more then 100 psi will put way too much oil into the rear bearing and fill the cavity by the flywheel and eventually puke up oil pass the rear main seal because it can not drain back fast enough. And I?m sure this will happen to the nose bearing as well adding to the job of the oil sling to keep oil away from the front pulley. Not to mention if your oil drain is not perfect out of your turbo, you may fill it too fast and puke oil by the seals into the intake and exhaust. ( I just learned that lesson on having a good drain. Tried to install braided hose to make it pretty and the fittings took up so much of the length I was not able to bend enough so I put a 90? in the line to loop it. Needless to say, that was too much of a restriction and now there is a simple piece of heater hose to give it a strait shot into the case. No more oil pumping out he exhaust, problem solved)
But 60 psi should be an easy accomplishment. And if you hit your target at high rpm, don?t worry about the low, you really don?t need it there.
Shoot, last few years I have had lots of oil pressure. At least I think I did. When I rapped the throttle, I would watch my pressure guage on the motor and see it hit 100 psi. and never seen this sort of problem. And I know it never dropped below 30psi as I have a big idiot light set up with a 30 lbs sender.
But on to your question. I think what you are putting in should be more then adequate. With my new turbo set up, id did notice a drop in oil pressure because of the open line going t the turbo, but noting to worry about. Although now after a hard pass, after the oil is warmed up, it will idle right at 30 lbs. But I am also using a 5-50 synthetic oil that may affect what my oil pressure is at hot and cold differently then a standard oil. (probably runs between 60-80 on high rpm now)
Because of my paranoid actions in the past, I have been leaving out the crush seal washer from the back spring plug. I put a few dabs of silicone on the threads and screw it in. No leaks and the added .040-050? more height on the spring. Too much pressure will create different problems. I found that much more then 100 psi will put way too much oil into the rear bearing and fill the cavity by the flywheel and eventually puke up oil pass the rear main seal because it can not drain back fast enough. And I?m sure this will happen to the nose bearing as well adding to the job of the oil sling to keep oil away from the front pulley. Not to mention if your oil drain is not perfect out of your turbo, you may fill it too fast and puke oil by the seals into the intake and exhaust. ( I just learned that lesson on having a good drain. Tried to install braided hose to make it pretty and the fittings took up so much of the length I was not able to bend enough so I put a 90? in the line to loop it. Needless to say, that was too much of a restriction and now there is a simple piece of heater hose to give it a strait shot into the case. No more oil pumping out he exhaust, problem solved)
But 60 psi should be an easy accomplishment. And if you hit your target at high rpm, don?t worry about the low, you really don?t need it there.