Improving rear suspension
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Evan Venon
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Tue Mar 08, 2005 6:53 pm
Improving rear suspension
Ok, with your help and knowledge, I have found a set of 73 type II CV's, axels and stubs. From what I understand, with these CV's and 924 axels I can increase my suspension travel from 5.5" to 8.5". Can I do this with the Type I tranny or must I upgrade to a Type II. I will probably upgrade to Type II when I find one. Right now I am looking for 924 axels and Thing\924\944 stubs to go along with Type II CV's. The Type II stubs will not install in Type I trailing arms?
Would anyone have a rear shock recomendation for under $200 a pair? This is on a two seat sand rail that will see mostly trail and off road use( some minor jumping etc.)
Thanks again for your help.
Would anyone have a rear shock recomendation for under $200 a pair? This is on a two seat sand rail that will see mostly trail and off road use( some minor jumping etc.)
Thanks again for your help.
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mrbajadude
- Posts: 127
- Joined: Thu Mar 14, 2002 12:01 am
Hiya Evan, You're right, the type 2 stubs will not work. You need 924 or thing stubs. I'm not sure about using the 924 axles. I've been measuring and checking to see what will work. I'll be using a type 2 IRS tranny with 924 stubs with bus CV's. Also, I have 1 inch longer arms. At this time I have the SAW axles. Most likely all you can get with stock arms is 8 inches. Check out the Chirco.com baja bug build on their site. Hope this is a little help. Ol' John
- HamburgerBrad
- Posts: 147
- Joined: Fri Jan 23, 2004 11:11 pm
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GDRBO
- Posts: 2574
- Joined: Tue Jun 27, 2000 12:01 am
Type 2 stubs will not fit type 1 arms - UNLESS you replace the bearing carriers. Bearing carriers and modified stub axles and output bells (transmission axle flanges) are available from www.precisionalloy.com 944 stub axles and CVs will also interchange. Check www.blindchickenracing.com for axle length comparasons but I believe modified type 2 axles work with type 1 trans and type 1 arms where 924 axles work with type 2 trans and type 1 arms. As to shocks Bilstein 6100s are probably best at your budget point. If you can find about another $75 - 100 you could get rebuildable and revalveable Fox or Bilsteins that you can tune to make your ride most comfortable.
- FireDancer
- Posts: 50
- Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2003 2:21 am
Re: Improving rear suspension
You can fit Thing output flanges on your Type 1 gearbox, which will let you use the 100mm CVs. With the combination you are taking about, and a Type 1 gearbox and stock length arms, 924 driveshafts will be the right length.Evan Venon wrote:Can I do this with the Type I tranny or must I upgrade to a Type II.
- INSAYN
- Posts: 350
- Joined: Fri Dec 14, 2001 12:01 am
I just installed a set of 944 CV's, 944 axles, 002 trans, up to stock type 1 trailing arms. Very smooth!!!!! I likey!
$125 for the (near virgin) 002, with a 10º tilt mount kit already on it.
$55 for all four 944 CV's, two axles, 4 boots, and two 944 stub axles.
All four boots seem to be recently replaced on the car I pulled the parts from, as well as two of the CV's, as there were no signs of use on any of them.
I'm going to go beat it up in the sand this weekend, and then get out my bender and whip up a new rear cage for it, so I can get back to driving to to work. I have been driving my F350 CrewCab with a 3500lb camper in the bed as a daily driver - not good with diesel so high right now.
I also need to build a set of 2x3 tubular arms, and get some more Fox Coilovers or Fox AirShox, and dump the lower stop, so I can take advantage of the available droop of the 944 CV's. I guess that means I need some limiting straps, as well. It's just money right?
BTW - I will put up some pics of the 944 Stubs vs. the Type 1 Stubs in my Axles 101 page http://www.blindchickenracing.com/How_t ... es_101.htm, sometime this week. And possibly the back view of my bug as it is now. I think I have something like 12.5" of clearance under my motor now, and still have the 2 quart sump hanging on there.
INSAYN?
$125 for the (near virgin) 002, with a 10º tilt mount kit already on it.
$55 for all four 944 CV's, two axles, 4 boots, and two 944 stub axles.
All four boots seem to be recently replaced on the car I pulled the parts from, as well as two of the CV's, as there were no signs of use on any of them.
I'm going to go beat it up in the sand this weekend, and then get out my bender and whip up a new rear cage for it, so I can get back to driving to to work. I have been driving my F350 CrewCab with a 3500lb camper in the bed as a daily driver - not good with diesel so high right now.
I also need to build a set of 2x3 tubular arms, and get some more Fox Coilovers or Fox AirShox, and dump the lower stop, so I can take advantage of the available droop of the 944 CV's. I guess that means I need some limiting straps, as well. It's just money right?
BTW - I will put up some pics of the 944 Stubs vs. the Type 1 Stubs in my Axles 101 page http://www.blindchickenracing.com/How_t ... es_101.htm, sometime this week. And possibly the back view of my bug as it is now. I think I have something like 12.5" of clearance under my motor now, and still have the 2 quart sump hanging on there.
INSAYN?
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mrbajadude
- Posts: 127
- Joined: Thu Mar 14, 2002 12:01 am
- FireDancer
- Posts: 50
- Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2003 2:21 am
There is an overlap. I have never found a definitive answer, but I think it is the early 944, the 924 Turbo and the 924 Sport. These are the only ones with the 100mm diameter CVs. They are the same CVs and stub axles as used on the VW Type 4 and the Trekker (Thing).mrbajadude wrote:Aren't the 944 and 924 both the same???OR about the same??
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mudman
- Posts: 519
- Joined: Thu Mar 28, 2002 12:01 am
http://www.eshocks.com/
This is a good place to buy new shocks. I have not personally delt with them but good prices.
Mike
This is a good place to buy new shocks. I have not personally delt with them but good prices.
Mike
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Evan Venon
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Tue Mar 08, 2005 6:53 pm
stub axels?
are type IV stubaxels the same as thing or 924? I have found a Type IV and am thinking of using these stubs, cv's, axels and flanges? Will this axel length work with my Type I tranny and stock type I trainling arms?
- INSAYN
- Posts: 350
- Joined: Fri Dec 14, 2001 12:01 am
You know I think pictures and written verbaged goes along way, vs. just telling someone somthing. Once they see it, they know it exists, or can be done. In my searches across the internet I found very little information covering all the various aspects of VW parts and their interchangability in pictures. So, as I figured them out, I shared with the world.mrbajadude wrote:Hey Insayn, Aren't the 944 and 924 both the same???OR about the same?? I'm using 924 stubs along with a 002 box and 1 in extended arms. Doing a Class 5 style car for fun in the sun. You guys at blindchickenracing keep up the good work and thanx a bunch for good info on the web site. Ol' John
INSAYN?
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mrgizmow
- Posts: 102
- Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2004 7:28 pm
Rear suspension
In getting parts for your conversion, it would be my suggestion to go with the type IV C.V.'s instead of the type II. I think under the best of circumstances, the type II's will be close to max. and the type IV would still offer you a few extra degrees. I chased my tail to almost two years trying to get my CV joints to stop clacking and my rig and driving style were not at all extreme. If you are good at shopping, the price between the two joints should be pretty close.
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Evan Venon
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Tue Mar 08, 2005 6:53 pm
Lots of good parts!
I found a 72 3rib, 928 CV's, axels and stub axels! The oil looked good from the tranny but thats all I know about it yet (wrecking yard
$100 with warrenty) I have herd that I will have to shorten the imput shaft 1\4" so that it will work with my T1 engine. Does anyone know how to do this carefully? I am guessing that the steel in that shaft is harder than the blade on my sawzall. I have tons from this forum and am still not sure how much travel I can achieve with stock T1 trailing arms. Some are claiming 10" while others say that 8 is the max. Any advice on this?
Thanks for all the good advice
$100 with warrenty) I have herd that I will have to shorten the imput shaft 1\4" so that it will work with my T1 engine. Does anyone know how to do this carefully? I am guessing that the steel in that shaft is harder than the blade on my sawzall. I have tons from this forum and am still not sure how much travel I can achieve with stock T1 trailing arms. Some are claiming 10" while others say that 8 is the max. Any advice on this?
Thanks for all the good advice