powdercoating sheetmetal & body filler question
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powdercoating sheetmetal & body filler question
I know bondo can't be used with powdercoating because of the temps involved but I read in the Eastwood catalog that metal to metal can be used with powdercoating. Does anyone have any experience with using metal to metal with powdercoating? Thanks
- Kubel Nick
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- Joined: Sat Jun 29, 2002 12:01 am
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- Posts: 407
- Joined: Sat May 04, 2002 1:01 am
I'd like to have my engine tin powdercoated. It's not in perfect shape and I've had to do some welding on it. Although the welds are ground smooth there are small imperfections in the tin that I'm not sure the powdercoating would cover. Metal to metal is a bondo material that is made of metal. Since I posted this on the weekend I called a few powdercoating shops locally and they informed me that metal to metal won't work that it will fail under the heat.
The shops here weren't aware of any fillers. Kubel, what fillers do you know of. Are you saying to powdercoat then use the filler and powdercoat again?
The shops here weren't aware of any fillers. Kubel, what fillers do you know of. Are you saying to powdercoat then use the filler and powdercoat again?
- jus'buggin
- Posts: 65
- Joined: Thu Aug 17, 2000 12:01 am
We use a product at work that is called Plasti-Steel. It will sustain temps of 500 C or something like that. It is rather expensive but it will take paint so I dont see why it wouldn't accept the powdercoat.
I mean we use it inside of Cat deisel engines to attach instrumentation and to attach sensors to turbo housings. ANyplace on an engine that we need to test and cant attach instrumentation properly
I could get the info if you want. I actually want to try a little repair on the body with it...below the airvent on the quarter window of the super.
anyway if you want the info I will get it.
brant
I mean we use it inside of Cat deisel engines to attach instrumentation and to attach sensors to turbo housings. ANyplace on an engine that we need to test and cant attach instrumentation properly
I could get the info if you want. I actually want to try a little repair on the body with it...below the airvent on the quarter window of the super.
anyway if you want the info I will get it.
brant
- Kubel Nick
- Posts: 1770
- Joined: Sat Jun 29, 2002 12:01 am
http://www.columbiacoatings.com/metalfillers.htm
main site
http://www.columbiacoatings.com/
More info here:
http://www.columbiacoatings.com/labmetalhowtopage.htm
"On top of being able to be Powder Coat it you can Machine it, Drill it, Buff it, Tape it, Saw it and then Sand it for your final results"
Also (same product):
http://www.columbiacoatings.com/images/ ... tapped.jpg
main site
http://www.columbiacoatings.com/
More info here:
http://www.columbiacoatings.com/labmetalhowtopage.htm
"On top of being able to be Powder Coat it you can Machine it, Drill it, Buff it, Tape it, Saw it and then Sand it for your final results"
Also (same product):
http://www.columbiacoatings.com/images/ ... tapped.jpg
- Kubel Nick
- Posts: 1770
- Joined: Sat Jun 29, 2002 12:01 am
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- Posts: 407
- Joined: Sat May 04, 2002 1:01 am
Thanks Kubel Nick - I found a supplier near me and the first one said they would order it from a secondary store in Sacramento. Then I got a call from the local store and was told the stuff can only be shipped by the case because it's so volatile. That's BS. I called another local supplier and got a 24 oz can coming on Monday.
I'll let you know how it turns out. Again thanks for your help. This forum as always is great!
I'll let you know how it turns out. Again thanks for your help. This forum as always is great!
- rick71ghia
- Posts: 33
- Joined: Wed Sep 25, 2002 12:01 am
- Kubel Nick
- Posts: 1770
- Joined: Sat Jun 29, 2002 12:01 am
Fixing flaws under Powercoat
You could always fix sheetmetal imperfections the old fashion way ---- use lead solder. This is what was used to fill all body imperfections back in the days before Bondo. You heat the sheetmetal with a propane torch. You used to be able to find lead paste body filler. I assume it can still be found, though not at your local Autozone. Once you get the hang of is (i.e. knowing just the right about of heat to apply so that you can work it without it becoming completely liquid) it is not too hard. Easy to sand and finish (though not as easy as Bondo) and is more permanate. Guys doing restros on high dollar classic cars pretty much only use lead body filler. Should have no trouble holding up to the temperatures used in powercoating (around 450ºF versus a melting temperature of 650ºF or so). It would be easy to learn on a piece like a shroud that you can take off the card and position it so as you can work on a horizontial surface.
- sideshow
- Posts: 3428
- Joined: Mon Oct 27, 2003 11:00 am
Re: Fixing flaws under Powercoat
I'm not sure about that. I had one really old small engine gas tank (~16oz) coated and we didn't realize that the filler was soldered on. It came off in the oven.John Crichton wrote:...use lead solder...Should have no trouble holding up to the temperatures used in powercoating (around 450ºF versus a melting temperature of 650ºF or so)...
I used electricial solder & a torch to replace the filler. Ugly but also bad-ass, it is used on my engine pre run stand.