lowering a 411

minty · Post by **minty** » Mon Feb 14, 2005 4:04 am

whats the best/easiest way of doing this.
i was originally gonna go air but funds have gone tight.
cheers

< minty >

ubercrap · Post by **ubercrap** » Mon Feb 14, 2005 7:53 am

I hate to say this, SEARCH! Ray has written a ton about this subject, giving many possibilities about how to do this without completely destroying ride quality. I'll try to give you some info, but do a search! That being said, I'm going to try his Rabbit/Golf strut housing (including lower spring perch) pushed into a cut-off Type 4 strut tube with Audi 4000/VW Quantum (Passat over there?) KYB GR-2 strut inserts myself. There seems to be some unanswered questions about this setup, such as the distance between the lower spring perch and the top of the strut tube on the WCVW strut housing? From what I gather, you'll need to measure the spring length with the T4 strut removed from the car. After cutting the struts, use that spring length to determine where your lower spring perch needs to fit by moving the WCVW strut up or down, starting with the new strut rod pulled out to it's maximum. I believe this should be a pretty radical lowering, Ray was estimating 3" I believe? Now, from what I gather his other idea for less lowering involves extending the top of the WCVW strut tube, or even a stock strut tube, so the Quantum/4000 insert sits higher, but I'm still a little sketchy on the details of that. Once I start experimenting, I'm sure I'll get a better handle on it. Then you'll need to start worrying about caster angle....

tuna · Post by **tuna** » Mon Feb 14, 2005 10:44 am

Ray, I'd really like to get stuff like that committed to my site, so the next time you modify a set of struts for both heights, could you photo-document it? Send me the pics and I'll incorporate it into my site.

Tuna

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Mon Feb 14, 2005 2:50 pm

What a co-incidence. I was just thinking about that on the way to work today. I have just finished the documenting of the center link rebuild. Ray

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Feb 14, 2005 3:42 pm

thanks for the advice guys, all help much appreciated

< minty >

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Mon Feb 14, 2005 4:19 pm

Dang......I just came up with the definitive version of an adjustable strut for the 412. It requires only 2 simple spots of welding welding...and only needs two holes to be drilled on a lathe. It should allow....between "0" and 2" of lowering. I say that limit for several reasons (1) There is little practical reason to ever lower one of these cars more than that....not only for the fact that you will not be able to get enough castor angle to ever steer correctly at high speeds...even with heroic efforts and mods (2) The largest tire you can put under the fenders with 1" of lowering...which is a hair more than it takes to set the front level to the back....which is all this car needs...is a 205-60/15 on 5.5 rims. You can go down to a 205-50....but you are perilously close to teh inner and outer edges of metal on teh body. Much more lowering...and all of these tires will strike the fender wells when you hit a bump. Even with the better strut cartridges. And if you take a look under there...when the top of the tire strikes whats above it...you done damage....and are screwed. (3) The compression of about 2" is about all you can do to the spring before it gets dangerously tight and will start killing ball joints and strut bearings. (4) Thats all this particular mod will allow.

Heres what it is. It requires the use...as noted in an earlier mod...of a pair of rabbit strut tubes. You will need to cut off sevral parts carefully with a cut-off wheel and grinder. You need to remove thespring seat, the flange for the steering knuckle...and the clamp for the ball joint pin. Now...the OD on the rabbit tubes is within .005 or so of the ID of the 412 strut tube. You will need to belt sand it for smooth fit inside of the 412 tube. Then rust proof it with phosphoric acid On the rabbit tube...on the lathe...you need to drill a hole of about 1/2" precisely in the center of the bottom of the tube...where the ball joint clamp was. Then tap it for 1/2-20..or metric equivalent. Fine thread either way. Then in the same position in the 412 tube...drill the same hole...only it will be larger. On the rabbit tube...you will now screw in about a 7" length of grade 8 threaded rod (or 10.5 if it is metric). have it welded in place...male sure it is straight. Then...fit a 3" threaded coupling onto the end of the rod...tap the rabbit tube into the 412 tube....until the edge of the threaded coupling screwed onto the rod on the bottom of the rabbit tube ... just exits the hole on the 412 tube. Weld it cleanly. Then chase the threads.

What you have...is now an inner stut holder for the Audi 4000 cartridge...tht screws in and out 2+ inches. How to lock it? On the 412 tube..cut 4 slices...evenly spaced around the tube....across teh threads where the original 412 strut tube cap svrew on. You want it to look precisely like the end of a tap handle chuck when you have removed the outer cinch nut. Cause thats what it is. Lastly...have the original cap taken to a machine shop....and have teh center milled out all the way to the threaded edge. Now you have a screw down lock ring with a small ridge at the top. With the strut cartridge installed in the rabbit tube...and .... extended udner their own gas pressure...with the proper length to the strut bearing measured and marked.....screw the rabbit tube into the 412 tube on its spindle...until the marks line p. Cinch down the ring....install the spring, upper plate and bearing...good to go. Ray