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cannot get top end

Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2004 4:44 pm
by TALL
Ok so I finally got my jetting to a point I feel is correct. 135main 50 idle and 200air on a 1955cc with 120 cam and 8.4comp. But I still cannot get the car to stop bogging out when punch it and hold the throttle. It is not out of sync because it is fine on the bottom end. The odd things is when I go through the gears it typically does not happen until third gear from any where between 4000rpm and above. I am inclined to think it is a fuel delivery issue. I use a stock pump and know others with similar motors who use a stock pump. My float levels are at 10 and 32.
I want my constant throttle. What are your ideas?
To see the past jetting issues search past post subject for "jetting"
Thanks

Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2004 4:48 pm
by MASSIVE TYPE IV
What is your timing set at?

Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2004 5:24 pm
by CHAZAVW
what are you running?

kads
dells
weberbs


single or dual?

i have dual 44 idfs with 145 mains with 50 idle 50 acc. pump f11 e-tubes and 200 air correction on my 1914.... 044 heads and engle 110 with 8.72 to 1 c/r

Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2004 8:04 pm
by TALL
running dual weber 44s with around 32degrees full advance.

Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2004 8:05 pm
by MASSIVE TYPE IV
trim the full timing down to 28. Above 5000 RPM you are overadvanced- guaranteed.

Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2004 8:10 pm
by TALL
overadvanced, never heard of such a thing, I will give it a try in the morning. What are you thoughts on the time when its below 5000rpm. I have it happen at 4000rpms as well and notice if back of the gas for a split second it will pick when stomp on it again. It like I flutter the throttle a bit, but only at high rpm.

Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2004 8:43 pm
by MASSIVE TYPE IV
As piston speed increases the extra timing burns the fuel too fast and kills power. On the dyno the changes i see are drastic.

People set timing at 32 and THINK they are making more power when using the seat of pants type of tuning.. The reason the car feels faster is that you are increasing initial timing as well as full timing by 4 or so degrees. At the upper RPMs you can't feel the differences as much.

Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2004 9:14 pm
by TALL
interesting, thank you for the break down. I will post the results in the am on wednesday. Thanks for the help, again.

Posted: Wed Sep 08, 2004 6:19 am
by CHAZAVW
TALL wrote:running dual weber 44s with around 32degrees full advance.
i would then change the 135 mains to 145's or 150's.......

i have an oxygen sensor that i had hooked in the exhaust when i put in my carb jets.... like i said before i run 145s in my 1914...... so 145s or maybe 150s would do you good.....

but jake is right about the timing i run at about 28 total advance too....

Posted: Wed Sep 08, 2004 3:55 pm
by TALL
well is tweeked the timing from 10degrees static to 8 degrees and am waiting to borrow a timing light to see what that is at full advance. I think it will be close so I drove it and it did not seem to help that much. Could still not be at 28 degrees full advance.
What confuses me is when hammer down on it and hold it in second gear the car runs fines all the way through the rpm range. When I shift ( still hard on the gas) and try to take thrid or fourth gear into the 4000rpms it totally changes sound from the nice whine a motor should have to a low more lumpy sound. Sometime if I hold the pedal it will start to sound fine and then go back to sounding like crap.

Posted: Wed Sep 08, 2004 4:07 pm
by sparkmaster1
Check your fuel pump pressure. Also I'd change the screen in the bottom of your tank and make sure the breather's off the tank are working properly. Tim

Posted: Wed Sep 08, 2004 4:22 pm
by gerico
Do you have a stock coil??? If so you might try a hotter coil...could be ignition.

Posted: Wed Sep 08, 2004 4:28 pm
by TKisner
Jake, would a mallory distributor allow you to run more initial timing while running less in the higher RPM's. Giving you the best of both worlds?

Posted: Wed Sep 08, 2004 7:46 pm
by Super_PSU
i don't believe you specified which dizzy you're running..

either way, the advance mechanism should be adjustable.. i'm not sure how the vacuum diaphragm would work, but a mechanical dizzy requires only a tighter spring, leaving you with less advance.

i'm by no means an expert, but we played around with this on my old 009, so i know firsthand that you can customize both the advance curve, and the overall advance..

so it CAN be done....

Posted: Wed Sep 08, 2004 9:08 pm
by TALL
I am using a 009 and blue coil. I converted to a pertronix pointless setup a year ago. Was not able to get the timing light today but will have it on thursday.
Nothing left to do but get mad and beat the crap out somtething.

Sparkmaster, you may see me on your door step this weekend if this keeps up.haha