Heat issues :(...
- wine country ghia
- Posts: 280
- Joined: Mon Jul 29, 2002 12:01 am
Heat issues :(...
Hello all,
Well I'm not sure where to look now. I recently refreashed a 1500 single port a friend gave me to a 1600 sp. Here are my engine stats
1500cc sp updated to 1600 sp using CB flat top pistons 85.5
Heads two year old new sp heads stock
compression ratio 7.7:1
Head cc 50-51cc
Deck .040
carb pic 30/31 new with 127.5 main jet
Oil 20/50 Castrol
Have all engine tin installed and engine bay gasket
Using 87 grade fuel
Any ideas why she's getting hot oil sender says 240F after driving 70mph for 20min continuously with ambient temps aprox 76-80F
-Eric
Oil temp sender placement T fitting that goes where oil presser sender goesb
Well I'm not sure where to look now. I recently refreashed a 1500 single port a friend gave me to a 1600 sp. Here are my engine stats
1500cc sp updated to 1600 sp using CB flat top pistons 85.5
Heads two year old new sp heads stock
compression ratio 7.7:1
Head cc 50-51cc
Deck .040
carb pic 30/31 new with 127.5 main jet
Oil 20/50 Castrol
Have all engine tin installed and engine bay gasket
Using 87 grade fuel
Any ideas why she's getting hot oil sender says 240F after driving 70mph for 20min continuously with ambient temps aprox 76-80F
-Eric
Oil temp sender placement T fitting that goes where oil presser sender goesb
Last edited by wine country ghia on Tue Jul 13, 2004 1:46 am, edited 1 time in total.
Hey Marc,
Dizzy is a 009
Timing is 32deg advance
Stock cam
Stock crank
Ok will bump the fuel oct up what do you think 89 or should I go straight to 92?
Thanks,
-Eric
Also I have oil relief sending unit on order I think I may be getting heat soak from the case since I'm using the T fitting so my reading are invalid I think
-E
Dizzy is a 009
Timing is 32deg advance
Stock cam
Stock crank
Ok will bump the fuel oct up what do you think 89 or should I go straight to 92?
Thanks,
-Eric
Also I have oil relief sending unit on order I think I may be getting heat soak from the case since I'm using the T fitting so my reading are invalid I think
-E
- wine country ghia
- Posts: 280
- Joined: Mon Jul 29, 2002 12:01 am
- wine country ghia
- Posts: 280
- Joined: Mon Jul 29, 2002 12:01 am
- Max Welton
- Posts: 3026
- Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2002 12:01 am
Well ... an .040" deck with a 50cc chamber is 8.1:1. That's the problem. You need low 7s to get by with a stock cam non-doghouse motor at sea level.wine country ghia wrote:Hey there,
Yeah I'm running the old style in the in shroud oil cooler. I rechecked my calculations using the aircooled.net compression calculator it says with my measurments it should be around 7.7:1 compression that should be ok right for 89 fuel or should I bump up to 92?
Thanks,
-Eric
Higher octane gas will make detonation (pinging) less likely, but it will probably not run any cooler.
Max
- Max Welton
- Posts: 3026
- Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2002 12:01 am
The results I get from John's calculator page match my manual calculations (rounded to the nearest tenth). Check your units?
A deck of .060" , 85.5 bore and 50cc chambers works out to 7.7:1. IMO this is still too high for your engine at your altitude.
I just built a stocker for my winter driver at 7.7:1 (.065" deck and 50cc chambers). But that engine is for operation in an altitude range of 6000'-7500' and has a doghouse shroud. At your altitude, I would expect problems.
Max
A deck of .060" , 85.5 bore and 50cc chambers works out to 7.7:1. IMO this is still too high for your engine at your altitude.
I just built a stocker for my winter driver at 7.7:1 (.065" deck and 50cc chambers). But that engine is for operation in an altitude range of 6000'-7500' and has a doghouse shroud. At your altitude, I would expect problems.
Max
- wine country ghia
- Posts: 280
- Joined: Mon Jul 29, 2002 12:01 am
- Searoy
- Posts: 2869
- Joined: Thu Aug 23, 2001 12:01 am
Your gas milage will get worse and you might get even hotter by shimming.
You would be better off taking a little out of the chamber, then polish it nice. Get your chamber up to 55 ccs. Take it out of the slopes, but don't touch the edges of the quench pads. The preferable spot would be next to the spark plug on the exhaust port side. A very minor amount of quench pad removal on this side would be acceptable, up to the spark plug hole.
Another option, perhaps preferable, would be to have your pistons dished 5cc. Cheap at your local machinist. Keep the diameter of the dish to 60mm or less, and for 5cc that's a .070" cut, safe. Still polish the chamber.
You would be better off taking a little out of the chamber, then polish it nice. Get your chamber up to 55 ccs. Take it out of the slopes, but don't touch the edges of the quench pads. The preferable spot would be next to the spark plug on the exhaust port side. A very minor amount of quench pad removal on this side would be acceptable, up to the spark plug hole.
Another option, perhaps preferable, would be to have your pistons dished 5cc. Cheap at your local machinist. Keep the diameter of the dish to 60mm or less, and for 5cc that's a .070" cut, safe. Still polish the chamber.
Hey Searoy,
Well all I can say is when I first tore this engine apart I found that it had barrel shims and the pistons were dished it ran at 150F all day long I updated it only because it was consuming allot of oil. Ok I'll look into having the pistons dished that might make more sense.
Cheers,
-Eric
Well all I can say is when I first tore this engine apart I found that it had barrel shims and the pistons were dished it ran at 150F all day long I updated it only because it was consuming allot of oil. Ok I'll look into having the pistons dished that might make more sense.
Cheers,
-Eric