1914 setup ??

cal-look66 · Post by **cal-look66** » Thu May 20, 2004 4:26 pm

im building a 1914 and was wondering how well this setup will work.

stock d/p heads ported and polished
engle 110
dual weber 40 DCNFs with 36mm venturis
1.1:1 rockers

just wondering if this is going to work well, cause its all i can afford right now

milo · Post by **milo** » Thu May 20, 2004 6:19 pm

My friend did pretty close to the same combo. I went through the heads and ported and polished them and put single hi revs on. It's very quick the 110 seems to pull strong to 6,500 in his engine (With better springs maybe more who knows). The only real difference between the two is he had 44 idf's. But, the 40 dcnf's with 36 vents should be pretty close. Very nice combo. You will love it.

Nathan

cal-look66 · Post by **cal-look66** » Thu May 20, 2004 7:08 pm

sweet! im excited!

Post by **sparkmaster1** » Thu May 20, 2004 7:42 pm

Yep that will run strong. Are you going to use a counterweighted crank and solid rockers? Tim

cal-look66 · Post by **cal-look66** » Thu May 20, 2004 7:55 pm

i had planned on using the crank thats in my engine right now, i guess its stock, im not sure... i also think the rockers are stock too. should i get solid rockers? possibly 1.25:1??

Post by **sparkmaster1** » Thu May 20, 2004 8:05 pm

I'd do a C/W crank before 1.25's. You can always add the rockers later. The crank will give you more performance for the $$ in your application. Tim

Chris V · Post by **Chris V** » Thu May 20, 2004 8:15 pm

You'll be pushin' the limits of stock rockers - if you blueprint 'em they'd be a lot more likely to serve OK until you can buy some solid units. Solid units are fairly cheap compared to the trouble of pulling the rockers off the engine in the car and setting up the solid shafts while lying on your back

milo · Post by **milo** » Thu May 20, 2004 9:41 pm

Yeah, Joe's 1915 still has stock rocker shafts on it. I am waiting for him to pop a clip. But, so far so good. A counterweighted crank is definitly a good investment. Also, balance everything (even if it's just the rods and pistons) it will make the engine last a lot longer and run a lot smoother.

Nathan

cal-look66 · Post by **cal-look66** » Thu May 20, 2004 9:54 pm

how do you balance stuff? and whats blueprinting?

milo · Post by **milo** » Thu May 20, 2004 10:07 pm

When you balance the pistons the easiest way to do it is weigh all the pistons (no rings, wrist pins, etc) and put them in order of heaviest to the lightest. Now, weigh all the wrist pins. Same deal heaviest to lightest. Now, match up the lightest pistons with the heaviest wrist pins and the heaviest piston with the lightest wrist pin, etc. Now, weigh the lightest piston/wrist pin. What ever it comes out to you need to make all the other pistons match (usually only like 5 grams off at the most on forged pistons). So, take a dremel or something and grind the little balance points inside the pistons until they are down to the same weight. Try to take a little from each one if you can. But, I usually end up having to grind some of the balance points completly flush. For the rods, I usually just put the on the scale and make them all equal (they are usually almost dead on 1-2 grams off maybe). and I usually just grind on the big end of the rod going with the casting marks. Blueprinting usually refers to deburring (taking the sharp edges off the metal) and checking tolances. So, the easiet way to do that is goto home depot or a local hardware store and you can usually find deburring tools just put a nice radius across all the areas where metal can rub against each other. By doing this you reduce the possibilty of metal wearing against each other and going out of tolerance. It also closes off stress points in the metal where cracks are most likely to occur.

Hope that helps
Nathan

cal-look66 · Post by **cal-look66** » Thu May 20, 2004 10:19 pm

if i go ahead and get a c/w crank and new rocker set, what would be the power difference between 1.1:1 and the 1.25:1 rockers? would it be a good idea to go ahead and get the 1.25?

milo · Post by **milo** » Thu May 20, 2004 10:27 pm

Desktop dyno shows 3hp gain and 2fts torque. Personally I would probably spend the money else where maybe a lighten flywheel or something. You will feel that a lot more than the 1.25's.

Just my opinion though
Nathan

CHAZAVW · Post by **CHAZAVW** » Fri May 21, 2004 6:55 am

milo is directing you down the right path.....

the c/w crank should not be that much more......definetely worth the investment... you dont want to run you motor past 5000 rpm blasts with that stock crank because you will be beating the hell outta that case and if you leave it that way it will eventually beat the case to death.....

balance and debur all that can it will save the case and other parts in the long run especially in the higher rpms ranges....

the solid rockers are a MUST..... only like $40. you would not want to pop a clip and potentially screw up a valve....that is more than $40.

and if you were to spend another $100. i would not by the 1.25 rockers i would spend it on the lightened flywheel, too....that will make it rev up quicker and more balanced.... more efficient...

cal-look66 · Post by **cal-look66** » Fri May 21, 2004 11:12 am

aweosme guys, thanks for you help!!

guest (vtec this) · Post by **guest (vtec this)** » Fri May 21, 2004 1:00 pm

you had better do something because when i get mine done, i am going to own you!!!! I OWN YOU!!!
Oh, John has an 1835 that runs pretty good, so watch out! Also, he has MY stinger on there, so he is going to beat you!

I was going to buy a 74mm crank last night, but decided against it. I will wait until I get tired of getting stomped with my 1641. but who knows, i may show up with a turbo on it and you will not know it until i wax you.
Anyway, go for the counterweighted crank, check out the samba, i saw some there, but if you are going to get a crank, just go ahead and get a stroked one, they are not much more expensive than 69mm. I would go with a 78 x 94 (2165) You remember mine, and how i waxed the ricers?
good luck