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So I have been told that the Autostick starters have more tourque than a standard. I have an original autostick starter that I was going take to a local shop and have rebuilt to use on my 2110 will this work or should I step up and buy a gear reduction starter?

the 2110 is set at 9.5 to 1 with an engle FK7 cam.

Anyone have any experience with these?

The AutoStick/automatic starter is heavier and more powerful than a standard unit (like, .8HP vs .5HP) and will bolt right in. It should be enough for your engine...we used to use one on a 9.5:1 2087 in our Class 1 car and it never failed to crank it fine even when hot. You should probably give one a try before bending over for the gear-reduction piece.

Bill

We had the SR17 on a 2165cc 12:1 engine in a drag beetle a few years ago. Never failed to start it. It did fire as soon as the starter engaged though, no extended cranking.......

Marc wrote:The AutoStick/automatic starter is heavier and more powerful than a standard unit (like, .8HP vs .5HP) and will bolt right in. It should be enough for your engine...we used to use one on a 9.5:1 2087 in our Class 1 car and it never failed to crank it fine even when hot. You should probably give one a try before bending over for the gear-reduction piece.

Thanks Marc and Gary thats what I was hoping for. Going to go completely through it the local shop here does great work and its cheap probably wont have $40 in the whole thing... They guy I bought the engine from did a gear reduction unit but he goes overkill on most things.. So I thought I would try this and if it did not work I could always sell it for close to what I would have in it.. Got new gel cell battery last year and I might replace the battery cable with a new unit hope that will be plenty!

thanks again Marc and Gary!

I think the main difference is the auto stick starters didn't have the center guiding shaft, but that shouldn't matter.

You shouldn't have a problem Bill. We had just finished that 2165 several years ago and were anxious to get it broke in. Had already ordered the GR starter, but it hadn't come in. Had my woods buggy sitting there with a fairly new SR17 on it. Did the switch to the drag beetle, sucker started right up. Wish I hadn't ordered that GR starter then. Thought I had to have it.
Your results may vary......

Superdrag wrote:I think the main difference is the auto stick starters didn't have the center guiding shaft, but that shouldn't matter.

I can tell you this, the Auto starter is slightly heavier seems like a stronger piece.

Yep, I've run both on the same car/engine combo... noticably more cranking power with the self-supporting Autostick starter. Not having to worry about the starter bushing in the tranny case is a bonus

Can someone please post a pic of a semi-auto starter and a normal starter, so I can compare to mine. My starter is marked 0.7HP

I don't have a pic handy but the regular starter has a "nub" on top of the gear that engages the flywheel. The autostick does'nt have the nub.




Steve

http://www.bus-boys.com/starters.html
The drawing on the left is of an older manual-trans starter (more modern ones are somewhat shorter) and the AutoStick-style is on the right.

It's a support bushing. The Autostickstarter is self supporting, as well as more powerful.

It is the desirable starter to have. Everyone should have one.

About the only case that we found where the autostick starter doesn't cut it is when you get to the big bore stuff on the type 4 (102-105mm). We went through about 4 units (two burned up due to poor grounding) before trying a gear redux, and that solved the problem.

Charles Navarro
LN Engineering
http://www.LNengineering.com
Aircooled Precision Performance

Ok my part is the stock manual item.
So this part SR17X is for a Type 2/Vanagon, but will it also fit a Type 1 single side-plate tranny?
Thanks for your help

Ok according to this site, YES.
http://www.geneberg.com/elctrcpg10.htm


part numbers and spec's are available here
http://www.1800vw.bizhosting.com/starterpartnum.htm