Ecotec conversion has begun.....

Plasticfantastic · Post by **Plasticfantastic** » Thu Nov 06, 2003 2:17 pm

I picked it up last week and have been test fitting. The rear cross piece will have to be heavily modified but the lid will still close. Only $300 invested so far, but the custom harness and stand alone ECM I need are $1K

. I've sourced everything I need and estimate my total cost will be $2500 for the finished conversion. Hard to beat for brand new engine, fuel injected, laptop tunable, 170hp!
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/inde ... 122596.jpg

Travis S · Post by **Travis S** » Thu Nov 06, 2003 6:10 pm

Nice man. I really like your bus. It is trick, how are you going to mount the radiator?

Plasticfantastic · Post by **Plasticfantastic** » Thu Nov 06, 2003 6:29 pm

Thanks!
I haven't decided 100% on that yet. My original idea has met with some really strong criticism and has me re-thinking. My bus is only for cruising/fun driving and I don't haul anything in it or use it for trips etc. The rear area is completely empty and stays that way. I wanted to put the radiator above the engine compartment in the cargo area facing the rear hatch and fit the same louver panels in the hatch as are on each side of the engine compartment to allow air to escape. I've already added a pair of NACA ducts to each side to bring in air along with it being a panel van with the factory louvers up high. Running a pair of electric fans and an oversized rad, I was sure it would stay cool. No one but me thinks this is a good idea and everyone thinks I ought to try and cram a tiny rad in with the engine somehow.

Travis S · Post by **Travis S** » Thu Nov 06, 2003 6:36 pm

One Idea I have seen and saw worked on a bug are like 2 smaller radiators eeach in the wheel well

Plasticfantastic · Post by **Plasticfantastic** » Thu Nov 06, 2003 6:58 pm

Sounds like a plumbing nightmare, but I may have to try it.

miller · Post by **miller** » Thu Nov 06, 2003 9:30 pm

How about placing it agianst the underside of the roof in the rear of the bus. Have louvers bringing air into the rad and have ducts taking air out through the 2 corners on the sides by the window. or have the ducts take the air through the sides. @ fans to ducts. I dont know if your gonna get what I mean but it might work.

Plasticfantastic · Post by **Plasticfantastic** » Thu Nov 06, 2003 9:53 pm

That's being creative!
I've considered several places inside the cargo area and airflow will be a problem in most spots other than the original one I picked. My first idea is the simplest, most effective for airflow. My NACA ducts point right at the back hatch so when moving it will get a blast right there.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/inde ... 115387.jpg
I think I will ignore all my non-VW buddies telling me not to put the radiator there and go with what my instincts tell me...
...besides, their biggest argument is "what if you wanted to haul some long boards or sumthin'?"

All_talk · Post by **All_talk** » Mon Nov 10, 2003 9:30 am

Hey Plasticfantastic

I had a thought on your radiator location, you could lay it down and put it in a box on top of the engine. Inlet air would come from your NACA ducts plumed into the sides and cabin air coming through the front through flapper valves to prevent back flow. You might even be able to duct in air from the stock inlet louvers. The outlet would be through an added set of louvers in the hatch, lifting the hatch would give you access to radiator to fill and such and you would still be able to load stuff over top of it. You would also want a good seal around the radiator to separate the inlet and outlet sides to prevent recirculating the hot air. Just figured I?d pass along the idea.

Just a note, I?d stay away from a location that places the radiator much higher (like the roof), the engines water pump isn?t design to make the pressure needed to push the water that high and the system may not flow well.

Gary

Plasticfantastic · Post by **Plasticfantastic** » Tue Nov 11, 2003 7:21 am

Another good idea. Especially since I've been having a little trouble finding a rad that is short enough to go below the rear window.

Crash · Post by **Crash** » Tue Nov 18, 2003 11:23 am

Take a look at a late model cherokee radiator. They can be had on ebay fairly cheap in a three row.

Core dimensions are:

31 x 11 1/8 x 1 1/2

Hose Connections:

1 1/4" Inlet (top) hose connection located top right

1 1/2" Oullet (bottom) hose connection located bottom left

-Mark

Plasticfantastic · Post by **Plasticfantastic** » Tue Nov 18, 2003 12:59 pm

Thanks Mark!
It helps a ton just knowing what vehicle has the right size.
Hope you're getting close on my arms, I'm dyin' to see this thing back on the ground!

holdthewind · Post by **holdthewind** » Sun Nov 23, 2003 10:40 pm

not sure if this will help or not, but look into a boat heater core. I've got one thats about 24"L x 8"T x 8"W it has twin 12v motors. Real compact and I'm sure you could wire the fans on thermostats to come on at different temps. Not sure if it would cool enough though. Just an idea

TIMBERWOLF · Post by **TIMBERWOLF** » Mon Nov 24, 2003 5:57 am

some other ideas are:

bobcat handling tractors have a rear engine with 0 air speed - it's all fan driven, they have high capacity high efficiency relatively small rads

same idea on rear engined passenger buses (the big ones not vws)

you basically need to up the spec from what you could get away with on a front mount (which is the best place!) either you have a small rad with high air flow or big rad with slower air flow.

racing 4x4's in uk have a biggish rad rear mounted out of the way of flying debris, they mount two electric fans and cool big v8's ok so it is easily done.

Plasticfantastic · Post by **Plasticfantastic** » Mon Nov 24, 2003 6:19 am

Thanks guys, all great ideas!
The one crash turned me on to is going to be perfect!