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I am asking any body that used the POR 15 for rust how it is holding up over the years and what process did you do for prep?

Did you do the complete marine clean followed with metal ready and then paint over the haze of rust?

did you media blast, wire wheel or sanding wheel to get the rust and paint off?

How did you paint POR 15?

Thanks
John

As for metal prep questions, just go to POR 15's site and check there.

The common thought is that this stuff holds up quite well but there are precautions that MUST be heeded.

If you want to spray this stuff, make sure you use a real respirator and not just one of those cheap cotton things that cover your nose and mouth.

Never ever use a torch on a panel that's already been treated with POR 15, the fumes will kill you.

Don't let it get on your skin as it will take 4,392 years to wear off.

Here's a new commer that claims to be as good if not better and cheaper to boot:
http://www.rustbullet.com
-ANT

POR-15 prep needs there metal prep. An extra step and an extra cost to IMO a more costly product. I switched over to Rust Bullet myslef. Cheaper, easier to apply and stonger (used industrially). POR-15 is geared towards auto resto, but Rust Bullet (and Zero Rust) is made for industrial use. POR-15 is most popular because of it's marketing but IMO it's not as good (or as cheap) as Rust Bullet nor Zero Rust. Just my 2 cents...

Rust Bullet only needs 2 coats of the paint besides basic prep work (clean surface and scrape all loose objects). No metal etcher (Metal Prep) needed to help it attach to the metal. You can lay it on thicker (good for seam sealer) but it won't dry glossy and smooth as POR15 does. But POR-15 isn't UV resistant so a top coat would be needed for POR-15 anyways.

I didn't use the metal prep, just media blasted the parts and brushed on with a foam brush - holding up excellent and still looks like it did when fresh.

James Buchan wrote:I didn't use the metal prep, just media blasted the parts and brushed on with a foam brush - holding up excellent and still looks like it did when fresh.

According to POR 155 themselves, you should have rust on the surface for this stuff to adhere properly. If you have clean bare metal then you need to use their prep/primer.

Regardless, it's cheaper, easier, and quicker to use something like rustbullet
-ANT

Im doin tests on the por15......its been on the 63 pans for 2 yrs now......inside only..........have it on the 67.......left the frame head out in the sun ....faded it all./..looks like crap....have it on 1 half of the 68 over a year...still fine........

i use metal ready on all bare metal no matter what.....any little rust that might form.. it will protect it from spreading when coated with a non rust proof primer............

see what happens in 10 yrs ....same bug....

I used marine clean, metal prep and POR-15 in my headlight buckets and inner fender wells. Holding up great. UV will discolor it but it is not supposed to affect the protective coating

Haven't tried rust bullet but have used zero rust. ZR has a phosphate treatment that I use for preventing flash rust that works really well and I have sprayed it with decent results. It doesn't self-level near as well as POR-15 so if you brush or roll it you may leave some marks but that doesn't bother me on the bottom side of my 912

Prep'd as directed POR and ZR have both worked really well for me. I went with ZR for price reasons. It is also a bit easier to handle and has a reasonable shelf life after opening.

My experience:

I did both sides of my floorpans in POR-15, following package directions. The car sat outside under a tarp for 18 months. Eventually there was about 3 inchs standing water in the car. 2 years later, still no rust. (I still haven't finished the car, so I can still see the pans.)
4 years ago, I painted the top of a metal bird feeder w/ POR. Today, it looks quite faded, but no rust has formed.

I'm doing some expermentation w/ Rust Bullet & a phosphate treatment called Picklex 20. We'll have to wait for results, but from what I see so far, "Regardless, it's cheaper, easier, and quicker to use something like rustbullet." is the truth.

Air-Cooled Head wrote:4 years ago, I painted the top of a metal bird feeder w/ POR. Today, it looks quite faded, but no rust has formed.

Exactly as it should - POR-15 is sensitive to UV light - it will fade, but it doesn't degrade its rust-preventative properties.

I've used this stuff for a few years now, and havent' found anything that I like as well. I don't usually use the Marine Clean, I just clean everything really well, wire brush where necessary, and then use the Metal Ready and brush on POR-15. I recently completed the chassis on my '69 Ghia project, and it looks fantastic.

Here's my chassis painted in Rust Zero (using airgun)


I then used POR-15 hardnose paint over it:

So by putting it on top of rust it will not rust thru the paint and peal off and holds up better?


Thanks for the replys and keep the coming

John

ALot of people, including myself, had issues of POR-15 peeling after application, even after follwing directions. A little rust allows the POR-15 to grad onto the metal better even with Metal Ready... Or just apply Rust Bullet directly with no worries about bonding.

Perhaps he leaves his car upside down ?

I know what he means, the UV in UV type spots will make it CHalky so I would strongly recommend an overcoat of something.

I have used the Por Patch with great results on a Caravan wheel well and it is holding up great ! I painted over the POR 15 with some black Tremclad so it would not go chalky and that seems to hold it together well.

Although, on my Jetta, I have a rust spot on top of the roof around the window frame that no matter how often I follow directions, reapply POR 15, it always seems to peel or rust appearing through the coating. It is in the top of the roof so water must be getting in somewhere else. Overall, I have had good luck with it, definately better than some of the other stuff I've used ( Xtend, Tremclad, etc )

You've never seen me drive !