paint questions

angelo · Post by **angelo** » Wed Aug 06, 2003 9:46 pm

i,m ready to take the plunge and start stripping down to metal or bondo whatever comes first.....i've read that it is best to use a high build up type primer....never heard of it before but i will look for it....feel crappy because i already started using the rustoleum brand......when a car gets painted do they take all the windows and such out....will i have to worry about removing all the rubber and gauges etc....or do they just tape everything off and clean up overspray afterwards?

Chillkoot · Post by **Chillkoot** » Thu Aug 07, 2003 1:53 am

rustoleem bad...
here is the way to think about it...
If you can buy it at wallmart do not use it on your car.. and yes Bondo you can buy at walmart...
If that is the way you are going to do it.. just take it to maaco earl schieb .. you get the same result with lees time for around 200$

Right way....
Strip to bare mettle...
go over with a mettle prep of some sort..
Etching primer
Fill dents, with plastic filler (I prefer Evercoat filler products..)
... not anything made fromtalc powder.. ie Bondo
knock down with 36 G
finsh with 80G
Glaze putty filler sand with 220G..
Pimmer filler Ie PPG k-36.. best high build on market..
wetsand 320, then 500..
Primer sealer.. PPG dp 90 or 50 depending on color
Bc/Cc.
Wetsand.. buff..

PRofesional auto restoration buy trade soon to open my own shop.

angelo · Post by **angelo** » Thu Aug 07, 2003 2:25 am

wow never knew that much went into it....thanks again....

angelo · Post by **angelo** » Thu Aug 07, 2003 2:28 am

while im here....ummm how long does a maaco paint job last anyway.....i've never seen one personally

angelo · Post by **angelo** » Thu Aug 07, 2003 2:29 am

while im here....ummm how long does a maaco paint job last anyway.....i've never seen one personally

Chillkoot · Post by **Chillkoot** » Thu Aug 07, 2003 4:49 am

angelo wrote:while im here....ummm how long does a maaco paint job last anyway.....i've never seen one personally

I have seen one of their "better" ones last right at 3 years...
most 18-24 mo.

Pete65 · Post by **Pete65** » Thu Aug 07, 2003 6:18 am

Chillkoot wrote:rustoleem bad...
Right way....
Strip to bare mettle...
go over with a mettle prep of some sort..
Etching primer
Fill dents, with plastic filler (I prefer Evercoat filler products..)
... not anything made fromtalc powder.. ie Bondo
knock down with 36 G
finsh with 80G
Glaze putty filler sand with 220G..
Pimmer filler Ie PPG k-36.. best high build on market..
wetsand 320, then 500..
Primer sealer.. PPG dp 90 or 50 depending on color
Bc/Cc.
Wetsand.. buff..

PRofesional auto restoration buy trade soon to open my own shop.

that seems like a lot of priming. I bought a gallon of nassons (dupont) and the reducer for about 60 all together at a local shop. Don't know of the quality (though I'm sure someone will have something against it cause it's not PPG and didn't cost me a million dollars) but for my first paint job I think it will suit me OK. I bought a paint stripping wheel for my 4.5" angle grinder and the thing works like a charm. It starts wearing out when you get down to bare metal. As it is for stripping paint the bare metal eats away at the disc so it doesn't harm the metal. Also, watch it around louvers or other holes in the body, the edges will rip that plastic right off and send it flying everywhere... new disc time. For like 8 bucks at Lowes I think, its not a bad deal. So I'm taking the car down to the bare metal and putting the primer on it so I can prevent it from rusting then there's only 999,999 things left to do... good luck

Chillkoot · Post by **Chillkoot** » Thu Aug 07, 2003 9:23 am

For cheap paint Nasons is Ok. It Is alot of p[rimeing but let me explain.
Etchic primer will reduce the chance the the pain wil rust if you get rock chips gettin under you paint also no Delam (Ie. 80's ford trucks). The filler, will makes it smooth. You can paint over it, and I myself have,But Base coat is more expensive than Sealer. That Is why I use it. IF you are spraying blue paint over blue primer, les paint more money in your pocket.

general_lee_jr · Post by **general_lee_jr** » Thu Aug 07, 2003 9:36 am

Prep work is the key. If the prep work is done right it does not matter what type of paint you use as long as it does not come out of a spraycan.

guest · Post by **guest** » Fri Aug 08, 2003 10:53 am

Why will etching primer keep your car from rusting....I was under the impression that it was pourous like any other primer. I thought that an epoxy primer was what was uses when you wanted to seal it. Mine was sprayed with zinc cromate(sp?) then shot with an epoxy primer.

What is wrong with Dupont paint? Is it inferior to PPG? I always heard that Dupont was better than PPG?

Can someone shed some lite on this for me?

JC-ATL · Post by **JC-ATL** » Fri Aug 08, 2003 12:14 pm

There's two entirely different schools of thought on this one, neither superior, just different.

Epoxy primer sits on top of the metal, and seals it from rust.

Etching primer actually eats into the metal a little, creating a very solid base coat for good paint while protecting from rust.

But you still want to prime twice. Once with etch or epoxy, then again with high-build sandable once you've smoothed all the panels.

hillbilly · Post by **hillbilly** » Fri Aug 08, 2003 7:08 pm

Chillkoot wrote:Right way....
Strip to bare mettle...
go over with a mettle prep of some sort..
Etching primer
Fill dents, with plastic filler (I prefer Evercoat filler products..)
... not anything made fromtalc powder.. ie Bondo
knock down with 36 G
finsh with 80G
Glaze putty filler sand with 220G..
Pimmer filler Ie PPG k-36.. best high build on market..
wetsand 320, then 500..
Primer sealer.. PPG dp 90 or 50 depending on color
Bc/Cc.
Wetsand.. buff..

Well you were pretty much on track there .untill you said glaze putty...

....absolute garbage the stuff is useless and should not be used on cars in this day and age. The polyfillers out there are far better than glaze (yuk)......two part putty ....two part putty..now thats the way to go. Glaze shrinks and causes problems when using base coat clear coat systems.
Sorry to tell you that but glaze is total garbage, no ifs ands or buts.
Collision repairman for 30+years.....and loving it!

Marvelicious · Post by **Marvelicious** » Sat Aug 09, 2003 12:39 pm

I assume (and hope) he meant some of the two part light fillers there are out there. Definately not the old school crap. If it doesn't have a catalyst it never truly cures. But yes, that is the procedure to do it well.

Hillbilly: 30+years and loving it. Man you have more patience than I! My hat is off to you!

Gareth · Post by **Gareth** » Sun Aug 17, 2003 5:16 am

....dunno, I stopped paying attention right after the words "fill dents with..." haven't any of you guys on this forum ever heard of hammers, dollies, stud pullers, etc...

..Gareth

DougRuss · Post by **DougRuss** » Sun Aug 17, 2003 6:24 am

How do you use a Hammer to apply Bondo ??