Shoptalkforums.com

Ok people what do I try next in getting this thing loose. I broke 2 flex bars already. I tried an impact driver.
I tried a 3.5' extension for leverage.

I have the flywheel secure and locked in place.

What next?

I use a 650 lb Ingersoll-Rand gun, makes short work of the most stubborn gland nut or axle nut.

Justin

Don't have access to that. Must be nice!

First your useing angle iron to hold the flywheel right!? good cuz that makes everything sooooo much easyer.

next you get your 3/4 breaker bar and a 4 foot extention on that.

you should be able to get it off pretty easy.

Luke

------------------
If its not broke don't fix it, but if it can be made better by all means do it!

Get a torquemeister.

I used a piece of pipe as the breaker extention.

------------------
73 VW Beetle - 25 yr owner
72 Chevy Truck
95 Nissan Maxima
I keep them a long time!

Get a 3/4" breaker bar and put an 8 foot piece of pipe on the end of it. Have someone steady the engine and you hang on the cheater pipe. Make sure it stays square on the gland nut so it doesn't round it off, and it should come off. If it doesn't, try to heat it up some and get some penetrant. If all else fails, get a longer cheater bar. And a 1/2" breaker bar won't get you far on this job, I broke 2 on my gland nut before I tried the above.

Right before you blow a hemroid out of your rear end put about 12 more pounds of umph behind it and it will come loose as well as your hemroids.

And very worst case scenario, if none of this works, take a grinder and cut a slot almost all the way through the head, being careful not to touch the flywheel. Then try taking it off. The pressure from the socket will distort the head, lifting it off the flywheel, and making it come out pretty easily. Downside is a destroyed gland nut.

a LARGE hammer and chisel, really. you chisel a groove in the nut then angle the hammer blows to turn it. R

Sheesh guys.. y'all are brutal on your parts. It's no wonder some of you come back complaining about flyweels coming loose, sheared dowels, and crap like that.

Invest in a torquemeister and don't use hammers, chisels, any of that crap. That's a good way to trash your crank and your flywheel. It can be used for the flywheel and the rear axle nut. Not a bad investment against broken breaker bars and needing someone to help you.

------------------
My VW Page-Updated 02/17/2003
Why? Because I wanna go WEEEEE!!
Gonads and strife!

I second the Torquemeister suggestion - easiest solution I've tried for both glands and axle nuts. BIG plus is that you can also tighten easily to specified torque with a normal 3/8 torque wrench. This tool uses your wrench to drive a small gear that "walks" around the flywheel teeth, so multiplies applied torque by some 9+ times.
CIP1 now has their own version in complete kit (wrench, both 6v & 12v flywheel gears, and rear drum adapter) for about $80. They call it the Torque Master. IF equal quality that's a good buy.

Ditto the above.
I use a good Snap On impact and it has taken off 99% of the stock nuts that I have dealt with. Use the Torq Meister for the rest. Unless Kymco has came out with an adapter recently, you have to make your own socket for the aftermarket oversized nut.

------------------
Gary

I thought about it some more. Just throw it away and get some new stuff.

GOOD NEWS! I finally got it loose. The nice thing is I only farted real loud and my hemroids are still intact. Thanks for all the good ideas.