dist drive gear

bug-me · Post by **bug-me** » Fri Dec 27, 2002 3:01 am

i put my drive gaer in on tooth off and now i cant get it out dosent seem to be anything blocking it i ve used thye bugpack puller but it inly comes out so high an d stops any ideas

verbeekb · Post by **verbeekb** » Fri Dec 27, 2002 6:54 am

Hi bug-me,

If the shaft will not come out: clean the hole well, maybe use some polish of some kind. Also, if you have one, make sure to remove the fuel pump, its pushrod and spacer before removing the distributor drive.

I hope it helps,

Brian

kangaboy · Post by **kangaboy** » Mon Feb 03, 2003 4:51 pm

hi, i have the sme problem, my moron mechanic put in the drive in 180 out and a tooth off. i know the fuel pump pedestule is in the way but how do i get it out. has anyone else had to do this, alot of people say they will break. how do i get the stupid thing out. also is there anywhere in the st.louis mo, area that i could take it. plese help!!

71Vdubber · Post by **71Vdubber** » Mon Feb 03, 2003 6:55 pm

Pop the fuel pump off, remove the pushrod then gently remove the pedistal. I've never broken one yet!

The distributor drive is meshed to a worm drive gear on the end of the crank so you have to lift it and twist counter clockwise at the same time so that It'll clear the teeth on the gear. Shine a light down the fuel pump hole and all will become clear.

James2 · Post by **James2** » Mon Feb 03, 2003 7:32 pm

It's not hurting anything if you vacuum advance still clears, leave it alone.

kangaboy · Post by **kangaboy** » Mon Feb 03, 2003 7:36 pm

i would leave it but the vacume hits the manifold and the drive being a tooth off really bothers me, and i think it screws up my timing. does it?

jarad · Post by **jarad** » Tue Feb 04, 2003 4:01 pm

i'd like to hear this too. I have a similar situation. my dist. drive is one tooth off. my thought were that if it is timed at full advance, that static time will fall 'where-ever' and all should be good. no?

Post by **Marc** » Tue Feb 04, 2003 4:12 pm

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 71Vdubber:
<B>Pop the fuel pump off, remove the pushrod then gently remove the pedistal. I've never broken one yet!
</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Tell me some numbers I can use to buy lottery tickets `cause you're the luckiest guy in the world.
IF the guy who built the engine took the time to sand the nose down so that it fits snug but not tight, they will ease right out. Unfortunately that's often not the case, and after 10 years or so of running they'll seize in the case and become so brittle that nothing can get them out intact. Resist the temptation to pry upwards; I've had the best results by grasping the flange with a large pair of Channelocks and gently wriggling back & forth until it will lift out.

392HemiTCoupe · Post by **392HemiTCoupe** » Tue Feb 04, 2003 4:52 pm

I have just gone through that myself! I have my motor on the engine stand, and it was a bare long block, and when I would turn it over, the dist drive would fall out. So I took it and put on the bench, when it came time for the dist, I put grease on the thrust washers and put them in place in the bore, then I put the drive in, one tooth off!!!........IT took me TWO hours to get it back out!.....Before it fell out!
The Problem.....the grease/oil held the thrust washers to the drive, and the washers Can't go past the drive gear on the crank!
I used a Strong pen magnet (one that will lift a hitch ball) to pull up on the drive, and tap it on the bottom till they fell off! they will hold on to the groves on the bearing surface and lock it from coming out!
Now I can do it quickly, along with some WD-40 in the bore!

My Two Cents Worth! Pat

Trikes are for Kids!

kangaboy · Post by **kangaboy** » Tue Feb 04, 2003 5:38 pm

ok, now that i have figured out how to take it out, is this what is affecting my bug on acceleration hiesetation, or is that just because i have the old 009 on and not the vacume advance?
and because my new motor isn't a year old and has less than 1000mls on it, will it be a little easier for me to pull the pedestule?

kangaboy · Post by **kangaboy** » Wed Feb 05, 2003 9:12 am

is this going to help me or not?
i would think that it might. has anyone had to split the case due to a broken pedustule?

Post by **Marc** » Wed Feb 05, 2003 10:05 am

If you have to break it up to get the hole clear to accept a new one you may end up with some chunks in the crankcase but they are "digestible" (about the only thing they could do any damage to would be the brass gear) and should be stopped by the oil pickup stainer. Changing to the stock distributor should help the acceleration-hesitation but there are plenty of 009-equipped engines running around that don't have a problem (mostly those with good manifold heat and warmair supply to the aircleaner). Have you already ruled out an accelerator pump problem as the source of the hesistation? As a temporary experiment you might try bumping your timing up to 15-20°; if the hesitation disappears it should be well worth it for you to change distributors.

kangaboy · Post by **kangaboy** » Wed Feb 05, 2003 10:48 am

this might sound dumb but what is an accel pump? also if the pedustule does get stuck in there, can i break it out in little peices like you said, and then get them out through flushing with oil? or will there always be little pieces floting around? will it get in the oil cooler? oil pump?

kangaboy · Post by **kangaboy** » Wed Feb 05, 2003 1:58 pm

cool, thankyou.

kangaboy · Post by **kangaboy** » Wed Feb 05, 2003 5:45 pm

any other thoughts?