Homemade speedster

juse · Post by **juse** » Wed Jun 26, 2002 10:13 am

My wife has had this daydream of driving a convertible in a summerafternoon, wind blowing her hair and warmth of the setting sun in her face...That thought started to grow in my mind too, but the high prices of convertibles here in Finland put me back on the ground again.
Then the idea of a replica came to me and I started to ask around of replicas in Finland. And once again I found out that the prices of imported replicas were too high for our household. Also the range in different replicas here is very poor, mostly because of the prices we pay for our cars overall( nearly 60% of the car prices are taxes). But the strict vehiclelaws of Finland are the worst and the last barriers on the road to carbuilders happiness.
After studying the many laws setting the limits for building or modifying cars I came to conclusion that the VW Beetle would be the easiest way to build a convertible we could afford, and to be roadlegal.
So now I wouldnt be writing to this discussiongroup if wasnt interested in a Porsche 356 Speedsterproject...
The plan is here; as the baseplate of a beetle forms only part of the rigidity of the chassis, I need to maintain some parts of the body plus manufacture extra strengthenings. Using the original doors(modified of course) would satisfy MOT-officer, as they represent today sidecrash-protection. Most of the cabin has to stay anyway.
Strengthtening the winscreenframe with 20mm steelbar is enough for MOT I have heard. And not to forget the sills that also need some more steel.
The biggest part of building a "homemade Speedster" would be fabricating the nosepart and the rearend with the shape of Speedster.
I havent got a clue yet how to make the moulds, but laminating isnt unfamiliar to me as I have worked in a glassfibre company(and also as a mechanic in a garage).
So if you have any thoughts or tips to give me, or even if someone has done this before, I would be grateful of any help to get.

Justin, Finland

nicanor · Post by **nicanor** » Wed Jun 26, 2002 12:34 pm

If you were gonna do a full body yourself why not just design your own style instead of trying to replicate one. It'll be harder to replicate one since you know what one looks like and that curve or whatever may not look right once finished, but on a custom unique body there's nothing to compare it too to see if it's accurate or not. Plus you'd be the only one with that car, you can put any type of windshield, etc on it instead of paying new parts made specifically for it.

Just my opinion at least. I'd love to make my own body one day, it would be influenced by early Porsche no doubt but it would be unique too. Plus it would probably be cheaper to buy a project speedster instead of making one fromscratch, even after taxes, etc.

juse · Post by **juse** » Thu Jun 27, 2002 4:56 am

Youre right; I wouldnt either want to just make a copy of something, but to make it my way-customize the shape of an 356.
And when you make the car yourself instead of buying one, you have a chance to make it just the way you like.
This all is of course just a lot of nice talking and when it comes to really building one, I might not be so positive anymore.

Justin, Finland

nicanor · Post by **nicanor** » Thu Jun 27, 2002 5:58 am

Ya, wanting to do something and actually doing it is a whole different ballfield. Making a body from scratch is alot of work. Expect at least a year by yourself if you're lucky. I don't have space or money (or enough good knowledge) to make my own so I'd rather buy projects, etc.

Good luck.

bljones · Post by **bljones** » Thu Jun 27, 2002 3:35 pm

you might want to check out the volksrodders forum- there is some wild stuff going on in scandinavia, similar to what you are trying to accomplish. additionally, for one-off custom body work, i have always liked the foam-core method- cheap, easy, doesn't require a lot of tools or knowledge- for further info on this approach, check out the q riley website www.rqriley.com

juse · Post by **juse** » Sun Jun 30, 2002 8:17 pm

Thanks for the foam link-tip. That method would save money and time when you dont have to fabricate the moulds first.
Some of the Porsche 550 Spyder replicas have engine mid-mounted as the origiginal was I believe, but is there a way to do this with a standard Beetle gearbox? Do you have to change something to differential or what?

Juse, Finland

[This message has been edited by juse (edited 07-02-2002).]

Kubel Nick · Post by **Kubel Nick** » Sun Jun 30, 2002 8:20 pm

Just flip the something part?? in the tranny then you'll have 4 reverse and 1 forward (which is what you want in mid-engine). You'll have to mount it upside down or something though. You'll also need hydraulic clutch kit and cable shifter (made for sandrails). Search in the conversion/perversion or other parts of these forums for better details.

bljones · Post by **bljones** » Sun Jun 30, 2002 9:24 pm

you need to flip the ring and pinion in the tranny to make it run right in a mid-engine configuration, but then you have a bigger problem- how to support the engine/transmission combo with the vw pan? requires much subframe fabricating, for little gain, in my book.

tuna · Post by **tuna** » Mon Jul 01, 2002 10:50 am

When you want to run a Type 1 transaxle in a mid engine setup, all you do is remove the differential, rotate it around so that the ring is next to the other side cover. This will give you 4 forward gears and 1 reverse.

As for mounting, the 550 replicas all use a custom frame to support this setup. The work involved with using a Bug floorpan makes it worthless. Check out the 550 replicas for ideas on how it's done.

Tuna

juse · Post by **juse** » Tue Jul 02, 2002 12:35 am

The starting point to my project seems to delay some, mostly because my wife thinks we have more important things to spend our money...can you believe that.
But maybe I could practice fiberglass-laminating before making the bodyshell. I think I`ll try to fabricate a pair of home-made bucketseats in GRP.
Any tips on this matter?

Kubel Nick · Post by **Kubel Nick** » Tue Jul 02, 2002 5:17 am

A super cheap way to amke a 1-time mold:

Make a full size mock up out of cardboard. Tape the whole cardboard using the clear boxing/packing tape (since resin peels so easily off of it and now waxing needed). Then start laying your fiberglass. Once done just peel off and smooth out the 'glass.

I take it you know how to strengthen/stiffen certain parts so it won't sag, like by 'glassing over a hose or using carbon fiber strands. Good luck.

juse · Post by **juse** » Thu Jul 04, 2002 8:11 pm

I`m planning to make my seat-mould from plywoodboard and urethanefoam. The basic-laminating methods are clear to me but I need to know some more details in using these materials for automotive applications.
For example how many layers of fiberglass cloth and/or mat I need to use for the bucketseats? And what are the correct weights of the materials (thickness)?
I have the same questions concerning the forecoming Speedster-body fabrication also.
Please share your knowledge with me so I can start working instead of just planning and talking.

Justin, Finland

73rustbucket · Post by **73rustbucket** » Tue Jul 16, 2002 12:55 pm

Don´t really know if this is interesting but there is a company in Sweden that produces a 356 speedster kit.
http://webserver.mphy.lu.se/roadline/index.html

Not to far from Finland and perhaps not to expensive?

/Patrik

[This message has been edited by 73rustbucket (edited 07-16-2002).]

juse · Post by **juse** » Fri Jul 26, 2002 4:19 am

Not so many tips so far about fabricating your own fiberglass shell for a kit. <BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by bdj:
additionally, for one-off custom body work, i have always liked the foam-core method- cheap, easy, doesn't require a lot of tools or knowledge- for further info on this approach, check out the q riley website www.rqriley.com <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
But this foam-thing sounded interesting, because it would be expensive and quite foolish to make a mould for a one-off moulding.
So are there anyone who has tried this or anyone at all who has fabricated a bodyshell homemade? Am I the only one who doesent want buy something usual, but to create the monster myself?

Justin

[This message has been edited by juse (edited 07-30-2002).]

ViolentBlue · Post by **ViolentBlue** » Sat Aug 03, 2002 7:47 pm

I've built boats and surfboards so here's the deal with foam.

the strength from fibreglass comes from the mat itself, unless you are using structural foam, so you can use any foam you desire as long as it is compatable with the resin (I prefer epoxy). 90% of the foam out there will disolve instantly when resin is applied, however there are several redily avaliable foams that you can use. easiest and cheepest it the blue sheet foam used for insulating concrete basements, one more time must be the BLUE stuff the white stuff is no good.

carve your shape, refine the surface, lay your glass over material (use good quality weave not chop, theres not a lot of strngth in the chop), and squeege the redin over, making sure to eliminate air bubles, when the resin has had a chance to kick (react) but is still tack lay your next layer of glass and squeege resin again. if you want a little smoother surface to begin paint prep on you can thin down some resin with acetone (1 to 1) and sweege over top while the last layer is still tacky, but not too tacky. acetone will evaporate quickly so work fast and make sure you have very good ventilation and breathing aperatus. oh and don't work in the sun, the sunlight and the epoxy reacting will create a lot of heat, and can even melt the foam.
if you wan to use a vynelester(sp?)resin you can, but it is much thinner and is better when it is sprayed using an airless sprayer system. the resin is cheaper to buy but you do need more equiptment.