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How would I go about getting more braking power to my rear wheels. I've heard that swapping the front wheel cylinders with the rear wheel cylinders will do just that. Has anyone done this?

I have done it on several cars now, including the glass bodied car I am now working on. Just be sure the wheel cylinders fit the shoes and the backing plates, some don't go straight from the front to the rear on the same car.

thanks, i'll give it a whirl. I've also read that bus master cylinders increase brake pressure, is this true?

Can't say for sure. Check and compare the bore diameters. I use dual masters due to my cars being street legal and my desire to maximize safety.

The bus master cylinder moves more fluid and allows you to use bigger wheel cylinders. Whith the bus master you can use a 21mm rear and 19mm front rather than the 17/19 that is stock in most cases. I think it is the type 4 that are bigger. It is important that the brakes are sized with the master. If you have a big master and smaller wheel cylinders you will have to really mash the pedal to get brakes. If it is the other way around you will not have enough pedal travel to make the brakes work.
I have set up several with the bus master, 21mm rear and 19mm front and it works very well.

-Mark


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Blind Chicken Racing
www.blindchickenracing.com

thanks for the info

Check out this page on setting up your brakes ->> http://www.1800vw.bizhosting.com/brakehowto.htm

Another way is to fab an adjustable bias pedal set up. You have two single circuit master cylinders sat parallel to one another, the actuating rods are attached to a bar with rose joints. The bar is attached to the pedal at a move able point some where near it's centre also with a spherical joint. By moving the pivot point of the bar you give one or the other mcyl more mechanical advantage by leverage and so apply more pressure. This gives you almost infinite bias adjustment. most race cars have it and it costs ~£300 for an off the shelf piece fo kit. You can also fit it to a servo setup. Mine cost £35 and a weekend of filing and welding. swapping wheel cyl's is easier but non adjustable.

Always optimise the master/slave cylinders, but if you still need to bias the brakes because of tyre changes or road surface, you can fit either a bias pedal setup as mentioned, or an easier answer is a brake proportioning valve. These are available from most aftermarket shops, and mount near the driver, and by twisting the knob/handle, you can vary the pressure to the rear brakes, thus altering the bias.
There's a page on my site describing how to make one cheaply from a secondhand car part.
Go to: www.rortydesign.com and go to the Rorty Racing page, then the What's New page.

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Cheers, Rorty
"Faster than a speeding Pullet"

Hiya guys, What we do is use the rear wheel cyls in front and the front ones on the rear. Works real well for most applications. Also keeps the front wheels from locking up on the baja. Ol' John

Same here. Switched wheel cylinders work fine on Bugasaurus. Stops on steep hills, all 4 wheels will lock up when that old lady who can't see over the steering wheel jumps out in the intersection in front of me. Shoes wear out quick with larger tires then stock.
Aloha, Theo

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http://groups.msn.com/BigIslandVWs/theo.msnw

One more thing...if your using a dual circuit master cylinder, you need to swap the brake lines at the master cylinder too front>back - back>front.
Aloha, Theo

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http://groups.msn.com/BigIslandVWs/theo.msnw

swap the brake lines at the master cylinder too front>back - back>front.

Uh..how? Aren't there two lines for the two front wheels, and only one line running to the back?

Also consider T3 rear stud plate drums.. the pads are super fronts (turned backwards)... cylls are super fronts.

T.

Adjustable Proportioning Valve
http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A3155A0A0.aspx
Residual Pressure Valve
http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/65A3153A0A0.aspx
These are in our price range.