Stub Axles

notched · Post by **notched** » Thu Nov 21, 2002 11:34 pm

I have some stub axles on my sandrail and one is different than the other. I was given the sandrail frame and torsion all welded together. It has a bug torsion set-up with double spring plates.

Anyway, I have Thing drums, with Type 1 backing plates. On one side, I have a tough time getting the cotter key in. The axle nut barely tightens enough to expose the hole in the axle one side only. After looking at things for a while, I noticed that one of the stub axles is different. On the side that won't tighten enough to expose the axle hole, the stub axle has a ridge on it. The other side tapers down smooth.

Any idea what this stub axle is from? My guess is that if I find one from a Type 1 to match the other side, I will fix this problem.

------------------
Phillip Bradfield

> '63 Notchback on '68 pan w/stock 1600
> '68 Squareback - w/67 euro fenders - no motor yet
> '69 Squareback - chopped 3 1/2" currently getting the drip rails shaved - no motor yet
> ?? Sandrail - Type 3 powered - 1835 w/dual 40 Dells

vicsvw · Post by **vicsvw** » Fri Nov 22, 2002 8:02 am

You can remove some metal from the brk drum for the time being. -->> http://www.1800vw.bizhosting.com/brakehowto.htm & -->>

[This message has been edited by vicsvw (edited 11-22-2002).]

jwstevens · Post by **jwstevens** » Fri Nov 22, 2002 8:32 am

I had the same problem on a previous buggy. I had to fiddle with the spacers on the stub axle to find the right configuration to make it all work. Do this before you start cutting up your brake drums - it should all fit together.

buggynamron · Post by **buggynamron** » Fri Nov 22, 2002 10:40 am

sounds to me like its worn from being loose. file the ridge or emery cloth it. type 1 and thing stubs r identicle except cv flange size.if your running big tires i found the hardend spacers to be a must

notched · Post by **notched** » Fri Nov 22, 2002 1:37 pm

Thanks for the info. They are 5 lug Thing drums on a Type 1 (bug) backing plates.

Haven't been worn, at least I don't think that's the problem, I've only driven it a few hours. I didn't want to shave one of the drums to make it fit, seemed silly to do that, since one side works fine.

So, anyone know what the ridged stub axle is from? Maybe a different year of beetle?

I was basically just curious. I'm pretty sure that if I get another stub axle like the one that works, I'll be good.

------------------
Phillip Bradfield

> '63 Notchback on '68 pan w/stock 1600
> '68 Squareback - w/67 euro fenders - no motor yet
> '69 Squareback - chopped 3 1/2" currently getting the drip rails shaved - no motor yet
> ?? Sandrail - Type 3 powered - 1835 w/dual 40 Dells

GDRBO · Post by **GDRBO** » Fri Nov 22, 2002 3:23 pm

Can you post a side by side comparison photo?

Bob Ingman · Post by **Bob Ingman** » Fri Nov 22, 2002 11:10 pm

If it is an early 5 hole Type 3 drum you`ll have to remove about .060 from the drum to fit it to a T-1 stub. They are like a Thing drum otherwise. Good luck. Bob Ingman

notched · Post by **notched** » Sun Nov 24, 2002 11:10 pm

Hey, that's a good idea. I'll do that when I'm back at home. I'm out of town on business for a couple days.

------------------
Phillip Bradfield

> '63 Notchback on '68 pan w/stock 1600
> '68 Squareback - w/67 euro fenders - no motor yet
> '69 Squareback - chopped 3 1/2" currently getting the drip rails shaved - no motor yet
> ?? Sandrail - Type 3 powered - 1835 w/dual 40 Dells