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O.K. guys what is the correct way to do this?
Anyone have any experience here? I would like
to extend it 4" if possible. Here is a pic of my current setup. I have a 58 pan with a
good clip to use.

Thanks,

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TBob
Mesa, AZ

Bob,
Maybe I misunderstood, but you were going with a full tube chassis right? If so then there's no need for a head frame and the 4" would be factord in.
Aloha, Theo

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by mrbaja:
<B>Bob,
Maybe I misunderstood, but you were going with a full tube chassis right? If so then there's no need for a head frame and the 4" would be factord in.
Aloha, Theo</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Ya Theo that is what I want to do eventualy -I'm hoping to do without the full cage for a
little while - they are expensive.



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TBob
Mesa, AZ

Is the 4" to extend the wheelbase? Have you considered longer trailing arms in back to do much the same thing?

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Class 11 streeter:
Is the 4" to extend the wheelbase? Have you considered longer trailing arms in back to do much the same thing?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I am already planing on 3x3 out back.



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TBob
Mesa, AZ

Bob, bob, bob! You should have asked the question before firing up the torch! Well, its done now, it will be somewhat harder but you will get more experiance welding! Was there 4-6 inches of full size tunnel sticking out in front of the bulkhead? If so weld it back on! That will be your extension. I know it will be quite difficult but make sure it is straight and square. If you make it 5 inches that would be good. Measure from the bulkhead to the front of the framehead of the 58. Write it down then add 4 inches to it and don't loose that demension! Cut off the framehead of the 58 much the same as what you did to the SB. Align the 58 'head to the SB pan, measure adjust and align. I bolted a length of tubing in place of the beam so I could get "good" measurements from the back of the beam to the rear torsion to check the length side to side. I also leveled the rear torsion and made sure the tube (in place of the front beam) was level with the rear torsion. Be sure to take cross measurements. When everything checks measure it again before tack welding. Measure again and then stich it all together. By stich I mean welds 2-3 inches long and spaced out so that the heat doesn't pull anything out of alignment

[This message has been edited by GDRBO (edited 12-03-2001).]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by GDRBO:
<B>Bob, bob, bob! You should have asked the question before firing up the torch! Well, its done now, it will be somewhat harder but you will get more experiance welding! Was there 4-6 inches of full size tunnel sticking out in front of the bulkhead? If so weld it back on! That will be your extension. I know it will be quite difficult but make sure it is straight and square. If you make it 5 inches that would be good. Measure from the bulkhead to the front of the framehead of the 58. Write it down then add 4 inches to it and don't loose that demension! Cut off the framehead of the 58 much the same as what you did to the SB. Align the 58 'head to the SB pan, measure adjust and align. I bolted a length of tubing in place of the beam so I could get "good" measurements from the back of the beam to the rear torsion to check the length side to side. I also leveled the rear torsion and made sure the tube (in place of the front beam) was level with the rear torsion. Be sure to take cross measurements. When everything checks measure it again before tack welding. Measure again and then stich it all together. By stich I mean welds 2-3 inches long and spaced out so that the heat doesn't pull anything out of alignment

[This message has been edited by GDRBO (edited 12-03-2001).]</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks for the info GDRBO! - No there wasn't
anymore tunel - Super Bee remember? Anyhow
was figuring on getting the tunel length from the 58. My concern is the front pan connection? make the extra I'll need with some sheet medal and weld it in?

Thanks,



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TBob
Mesa, AZ

You should be able to cut a section of the tunnel out of the middle of the 58 pan and graft it in place. I guess its been too long sincr I really looked at a SB pan. I thought the tunnel came out about 4-6 inches and then tapered down.

If what your saying is that you would like to extent the floor pans, then cut the other clip long and leave the 4" of pan on the clip and weld the floors together as well as the tunnel connection. You will only have to fab the outer edges then for the mismatch.

Another trick to frame sectioning is to use threaded rods to locate and hold the frame. I use a couple rods and temporary angle iron mounts to hold the two pieces in place. You can then adjust your dimensions by tightning or loosining the rods and it will keep them in place till you get it tacked and then you can remove the angle tabs with the grinder.

Sean