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I need to match my intakes to my heads and there opened up pretty good,D-ports, and I have never done this before,ever. I have a Dremel tool but I have no clue what bits,sandpaper, any of that stuff. What do I exactly use in this process? If anyone could give me a what tool during what step would be great since messing them up can add up at 60 bucks a pair.

Where are you located? Maybe you could have someone do it for you. I do them for people when needed. Tim

I'm in Jax,Fl and I've talked to a few people but I've never heard anything back so figure I' just do it myself. I'd like to learn but it seems nobody has time, even if I offer cash. I dunno?

Sherman out at the beach ports intakes, he'll do most anything on a ACVW as far as I know. He's a really nice guy too. I've give you his address and number if you need it. Just let me know

I got his number.

Basically you take a fiber intake gasket, cut it with a sharp x-acto knife to match the intake port, lay in on the intake manifold and trace the shape. If you don't have to take out much you can use sanding rolls on your dremel and take it out to the edge of your line. Try and taper it up as far as you can. When you're close, take the carb off and look down to see how close you are. Most people use 1/4" die grinders, but you can do it with a dremel it just take a little longer. Good luck, Tim

What bits, grade rolls..This is my first time and i have no idea what to look for when I buy stones,rolls,etc. I do understand about the bottleneck idea though.

80 or 60 grit will work fine. You can't use stone's they only work on hard metals. If you can find some flapper sanding wheels for a dremel they work great for finish work. If you want I could take some pics and show you what I use on die grinders. Tim

.....bought my Dremel flap wheels at Wal-Mart. Six bucks each and they last forever.

With a Dremel ,

I use a S/S 1/4" milling cutter for fast removal of material from ports and it leaves a reasonably smooth finish.

For even faster removal of metal I use a two edged router bit - its designed for use on wood but you get away with it on ally.

For blending these marks out i use the abrasive spiral wound sleeves .

All are Dremel parts .

I use rubberised dental buffs for final polishing .

I've found that stones tend to "bounce" and "fill" with ally and usually leave a rough finish but again they can be handy for getting into corners.

For a final satin finish I use coarse Fibral which I punch out in discs about 35mm dia and fit in a small mandrel ( wish I could find small enough flap wheels)

Good luck

Regds
David.

Here's a good site for general porting info, even though it is V8
http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.htm

Here's a handy dandy porting kit.
http://www.sa-motorsports.com/cat/p6.htm

They have more complex porting kits as well.

You will find it also helps to spray WD-40 on the metal every once in a while to keep your tool from loading up with metal.

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Jim Gillum Racing:
You will find it also helps to spray WD-40 on the metal every once in a while to keep your tool from loading up with metal.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Pick up a wax ring for a toilet next time you're at the hardware store ($1-$2). Touching the warm cutter to the beeswax occasionally will keep it self-cleaning too. `Course it won't have other uses like the WD-40, but it does this job well.

What's a wax ring for a toilet ???

Regds
David.

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Fastorq:
<B>What's a wax ring for a toilet ???

</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

It's what seals the bottom of the fixture to the soil pipe in the floor - a big expendable beeswax gasket.