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Someone was telling me about using a 78(?)mm stroke "wasserboxer" crank in a type one engine.Does anyone here know anything about these? Is it a drop-in? Which rods? Pistons?
Thanks in advance for any and all info !

You need the case machining for a T4 centre main. It only has a 71mm stroke but you can use a T4 flywheel (5 bolt) and bus clutch. You can use stock rods - though they might need clearencing and regular forged pistons. I think with 90.5s you get 1966cc though that could be wrong. The man you really need to talk to is called Laurie Petit - he pioneered the conversion.

I think the larger 2.1 waterboxer had a 74.1mm crank. Except for machining the case for a T4 center main the rest is pretty much drop-in, gives you a cheap forged and flanged crank, and uses stock T1 rods and p/c's. I don't know Laurie Petit, but Steve Stromberg, moderater of the 914 forum, does this as well.

Have a look at http://www.veemotors.co.uk/

I have a2.1 78mm WBX in a Type1 case. You will need to have a Type4 Thrust bearing (Rimco can do this) Have the case clearenced case for stroke crank, I used Rimco Super Rods, Cima 90.5 B pistons, it is a drop in.I have 040 heads Norris 254x cam, Schdeck oilpump, 228 Type2 clutch and flywheel, single 32 Pic carb. This is the motor I always recommend as the engine is the same width as stock. The engine pushes a 71 Type2 Hi-Top with Westy interior at 70mph over the Cuesta grade.Steve

Opps I had stroker T4 on the brain the WBX is 76mm not 78mm.

[This message has been edited by stevestromberg (edited 07-27-2001).]

Thanx for the info folks !This sounds like a fairly well kept secret. Are these factory counter-weighted or do you recomend having Rimco c-w them ?
I was about to put together a 1776 with a stock c/w crank,but thanks to you guys,I may get to build the forged crank stroker of my dreams (and stay within my limited budget) for my '67 resto-custom !!! Again Many thanks !!!

Lots of mis-information above.
The 2.1 liter waterboxer crank is 76.4mm, not 78, not 71, not 74.1.
The waterboxer does not have a T4 center main. It is simply a T1 crank with longer stroke and T4 #1 (thrust) bearing that uses T4 flywheels. The cheeks between all the bearings are much wider than a Bug crank, and thus the crank does not flex as much as a T1 crank. DMS can weld counterweights on, but Laurie Pettit does not recommend this. Not needed as far as he's concerned. BTW, Laurie is the undisputed authority on WBX cranks into T1 cases.

What do you use for a rear mainseal?

When the case is cut to take the Type4 thrust bearing it is also sized for the Type4 rear seal. Steve

Check: www.gearheads.dk/oxyboxer.htm

------------------
Best Regards
VWMorten
www.surf.to/vwmorten

I am lucky enough to live a short distance from Laurie. The 69 or 74.6 cranks are very good. Because they are genuine forged and slightly stronger they flex very little. This means the case lasts well. One of the earliest conversions by laurie was driven very hard over a number of years. The guy would regularly rev to over 6K until the valves bounced. When the engine was upgraded, the bottom end didn't even need new bearings.
My brother runs a 1776 using the wbx crank,
(berg heads , manifolds, Dells, engle 120).
Its a great torquey motor with a good power band.
The rear bearing area does need machining although my brother had a special flywheel made. A BMW part can be used as the seal.

I am lucky enough to live a short distance from Laurie. The 69 or 76.4 (got that wrong first time ) cranks are very good. Because they are genuine forged and slightly stronger they flex very little. This means the case lasts well. One of the earliest conversions by laurie was driven very hard over a number of years. The guy would regularly rev to over 6K until the valves bounced. When the engine was upgraded, the bottom end didn't even need new bearings.
My brother runs a 1776 using the wbx crank,
(berg heads , manifolds, Dells, engle 120).
Its a great torquey motor with a good power band.
The rear bearing area does need machining although my brother had a special flywheel made. A BMW part can be used as the seal.

FYI:
Try the "edit post" button next time.

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Bruce M:
<B>I am lucky enough to live a short distance from Laurie. The 69 or 76.4 (got that wrong first time ) cranks are very good. Because they are genuine forged and slightly stronger they flex very little. This means the case lasts well. One of the earliest conversions by laurie was driven very hard over a number of years. The guy would regularly rev to over 6K until the valves bounced. When the engine was upgraded, the bottom end didn't even need new bearings.
My brother runs a 1776 using the wbx crank,
(berg heads , manifolds, Dells, engle 120).
Its a great torquey motor with a good power band.
The rear bearing area does need machining although my brother had a special flywheel made. A BMW part can be used as the seal.</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

HAH!
thats what I was looking for.

BTW nice home town, visited once on the way to yellowstone.

I think its spelt Laurie 'Pettitt'.
His phone number is 01890 781664 (UK).