solex carbs
-
robot 271
solex carbs
whats the diff between a solex 32-34 PDSIT 3 and a 32-24 PDSIT 2 ? thanks in advance
-
mrbajadude
- Posts: 127
- Joined: Thu Mar 14, 2002 12:01 am
solex carbs
Right and left carbs on a type 3 engine. Ol' John
-
luckys420
- Posts: 77
- Joined: Sat Mar 09, 2002 12:01 am
solex carbs
the central ideling system is what connects the idle control screw on the left carb to the right carb. you can see the tube sticking out on the left carb.
lc
lc
-
metropoj
- Posts: 997
- Joined: Thu Sep 05, 2002 12:01 am
solex carbs
Yeah, 32's used on T3's are two completely separate IDENTICAL carbs, each with it's own idling system. On the T2's, there is one carb that has all the working parts of one T3 32 carb, PLUS, this left side carb sends a fuel mixture to the other "Dummy" carb ( not really a dummy, but not a full 32 ). The left carb you adjust air / fuel mixture for both the carbs for IDLE only ! Complicated ? It gets worse. The central idle system is basically just that, one idle system for two carbs. The carb on the left side monitors fuel for both left and right carbs ( if you're looking at the engine from the back lid of your bus ). The misnomer to newbies of these carbs is that there is no central idle, it is actually located in the left side carb ...... There are still many jets to play with and a lot of info out there to get them running correctly. Worn throttle bushings for the butterfly valves are a main source of air leakage / problems ....
Hope this offered some insight ...
JMM.
They're a pain to play with but so is a Weber Progressive if you want to use it in cold weather especially. Took me quite a while to get it balanced out OK with nice brown spark plugs.
Hope this offered some insight ...
JMM.
They're a pain to play with but so is a Weber Progressive if you want to use it in cold weather especially. Took me quite a while to get it balanced out OK with nice brown spark plugs.
-
type4bay74
- Posts: 99
- Joined: Wed Oct 16, 2002 1:01 am
solex carbs
The singles carbs are a nightmare to stay tuned and dont provide very good excelleration, alot of people give the progressive grief what do you expect from a $300 carb kit, Ive owned 4 busses with the progressive and one with the dual solex, the dual carbs left me stranded, my progressives have always worked like a champ, if you have the patients you can tune a webber, once it is dialed and tuned no worries, ive driven mine in -10 michigan weather its easy to add manifold heat using an early dodge owni air cleaner and runing a hose to the heat exchanger, good luck either way you go
-
VGM
- Posts: 1246
- Joined: Sun Feb 24, 2002 12:01 am
solex carbs
Dual ICT webers are a better choice than stock duals for reasons already mentioned.They are more expensive than progressives(which are a good low budget solution) but less than the IDFs.IDF webers or DRLAs(if you can find them)are, if you can afford them,the best way to go.They are very efficient,very tunable and easy to upgrade for more power if you need to later on.That said,I really enjoy messing around with the stock Solex duals trying to make them run and pass emissions tests-endless hours of mindnumbing pleasure!I just wont recommend them to someone who wants reliable units.
-
Pillow
- Posts: 2940
- Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2001 1:01 am
solex carbs
Yes the Weber ICTs bolt right onto the Solex manifolds and work much better.
I picked up a T1 set of used ICTs with linkage and manifolds for $110. Then just had to rebuild them. Easy and cheap.
------------------
Adrian Pillow
'66 VW Westfalia - "Biscuit"
'67 VW Deluxe Westfakia - "Dino" - FS
'79 Porsche 911 SC - "Cochese" - FS
I picked up a T1 set of used ICTs with linkage and manifolds for $110. Then just had to rebuild them. Easy and cheap.
------------------
Adrian Pillow
'66 VW Westfalia - "Biscuit"
'67 VW Deluxe Westfakia - "Dino" - FS
'79 Porsche 911 SC - "Cochese" - FS
-
robot 271
solex carbs
Hi, fired up car and only seems to idle on 1 side, I suppose this has to do with central idleing system does anyone have a pic or diagram where I can see how to plumb or hook up hoses? or a link to where I can find this?? Thanks ps carbs are 32/34 pdsit 2 & 3
-
VGM
- Posts: 1246
- Joined: Sun Feb 24, 2002 12:01 am
solex carbs
The Robert Bently book has pics.You can find these at used book stores these days.Make sure you dont have vacuum leaks anywhere or it will take hours to set up and still be wrong.The central idle tube rubber connector ends crack and leak,if you have some round canisters on the side of each manifold make sure they dont have vac leaks also.Oh the memories this brings back!By the way CB performance has those new Solex dual carbs with chokes,same size as your stockers for about $300,less than ICTs,less than Kadrons!Good luck.
-
amskeptic
- Posts: 666
- Joined: Thu Oct 24, 2002 1:01 am
solex carbs
Okey dokey, here goes:
If the engine seems to be running on one side only, it is not likely to be the central idling circuit.
Step 1. Check your brake booster rubber elbows at the manifolds on each side for cracks or splits. Check diligently.
Vacuum leak=burned valve, cracked heads, etc.
Step 2. Check, with engine off, both idle cutoff solenoids on carburetors for nice authoritative clicking when you pull live wire off then back on.
Check that big honkin' central one too, located on left carb up near bulkhead.
Step 3. Preliminary test, bottom-out both fuel mixture screws on each carb, count how many turns it takes to seat them. If one bottoms out in 1/2 a turn, for example, you now know why that side of engine wasn't running for you. Back out both screws 2 1/2 turns.
This is not tune-up spec. only diagnostic.
OK. Start engine. Better? No????
Yank gently those idling solenoid wires one-at-a-time with engine running to see which one has *no* effect on your lousy idle. That thar's yer problem. If they all *do* have an effect on engine's ability to idle, we're getting somewhere.
Pull central idling air tube off left carb and open up the big screw until it is making major sucking sound, unless it already is.
When it is, put tube back on nicely.
Here is your best mixture trick ever invented:
Pull vacuum supply hose off preheater thermostatic control bimetal assembly located on rightside airhorn.
The other hose goes to preheater valve, we don't want that one.
A. Pulling hose makes idle improve?
Mixture is too rich.
B. Pulling hose makes idle worse?
Mixture is too lean.
Here is what you do.
Put the hose back on.
Pull vacuum hose off vacuum retard.
( it's green on your original engine)
Idle should speed up,
(if it doesn't, your timing is going to be off bigtime, check and/or replace vacuum unit, get your timing to 5 ATDC with unit connected and working, or your central idling circuit will never work correctly, that's a promise)
OK, with correctly functioning vacuum unit, with the vacuum retard hose off, you should have a quick idle to adjust your dual carburetor idling circuits, here's how:
Pull the wire off the central (big) solenoid at the back of the left carb. Idle should go down, now that the big sucking circuit has been killed off. Way down, actually, about 500-700 RPM.
You adjust the two carbs by putting your finger over the vacuum hose (that goes to the preheater thermostatic bimetal control assembly on the right air horn) and taking your finger off and back on as necessary and adjust those little mixture screws on each carb until you get just barely a little RPM drop when you take your finger off the hose. If the RPMs go up, you're too rich. If the engine drops rough, you're too lean. Once you have the perfect little RPM drop, check for equal mixtures by pulling the wire off each little solenoid and see if they give you exactly equal horrible shaking for the instant that you test it. ( my engine gives 450 rpm on each carb ) If the engine always stalls when you pull the wire on the left side, for example,it means
the right side is too lean.
Make them the same, test the vacuum hose finger-off little rpm drop, put the hose back on, and then finally, plug in the central solenoid, blip the throttle to bring the central circuit back in, re-attach the retard hose, and you should have a sustainable idle now. Guess what? You can now use the vacuum hose to the preheater thermostatic control bimetal assembly in the right airhorn to adjust the mixture on the central idling circuit. First, get RPMs down( or up) to about 950 or so with the big screw on top of the left carb. Lean out by turning in, the little mixture screw on top of the left carb ( on other side of air tube)until idle falters a bit, bring it back out, pull finger off hose, and you NOW want to have the idle go up when you release your finger from the hose, so adjust the mixture until the idle goes up about 50-75 rpm with finger off the hose, and then put the hose back on ( for the last time)the preheater thermostatic bimetal control assembly when you are done.
Final adjustment, idle speed at central big screw to 950 -1000 RPM.
You want a richer central circuit mixture, and a slightly lean mixture at carbs. This will give you buttery smooth transition off idle when you pull away from a stop. This will give you a safety if you get a minor unexpected air leak, it will help you not get a blowtorch lean condition if a rubber elbow splits. The richer central mixture also helps your warm-up driveability, and reduces the tendency to lose your idle when you come barrelling up to a stop light.
If your dual carbs are too rich at idle, they will give you a *rich* flat spot when you step on the gas, because the accelerator pumps will completely overdo it, yet most people think that flat spot is a *lean* flat spot. Did this help?
Colin
If the engine seems to be running on one side only, it is not likely to be the central idling circuit.
Step 1. Check your brake booster rubber elbows at the manifolds on each side for cracks or splits. Check diligently.
Vacuum leak=burned valve, cracked heads, etc.
Step 2. Check, with engine off, both idle cutoff solenoids on carburetors for nice authoritative clicking when you pull live wire off then back on.
Check that big honkin' central one too, located on left carb up near bulkhead.
Step 3. Preliminary test, bottom-out both fuel mixture screws on each carb, count how many turns it takes to seat them. If one bottoms out in 1/2 a turn, for example, you now know why that side of engine wasn't running for you. Back out both screws 2 1/2 turns.
This is not tune-up spec. only diagnostic.
OK. Start engine. Better? No????
Yank gently those idling solenoid wires one-at-a-time with engine running to see which one has *no* effect on your lousy idle. That thar's yer problem. If they all *do* have an effect on engine's ability to idle, we're getting somewhere.
Pull central idling air tube off left carb and open up the big screw until it is making major sucking sound, unless it already is.
When it is, put tube back on nicely.
Here is your best mixture trick ever invented:
Pull vacuum supply hose off preheater thermostatic control bimetal assembly located on rightside airhorn.
The other hose goes to preheater valve, we don't want that one.
A. Pulling hose makes idle improve?
Mixture is too rich.
B. Pulling hose makes idle worse?
Mixture is too lean.
Here is what you do.
Put the hose back on.
Pull vacuum hose off vacuum retard.
( it's green on your original engine)
Idle should speed up,
(if it doesn't, your timing is going to be off bigtime, check and/or replace vacuum unit, get your timing to 5 ATDC with unit connected and working, or your central idling circuit will never work correctly, that's a promise)
OK, with correctly functioning vacuum unit, with the vacuum retard hose off, you should have a quick idle to adjust your dual carburetor idling circuits, here's how:
Pull the wire off the central (big) solenoid at the back of the left carb. Idle should go down, now that the big sucking circuit has been killed off. Way down, actually, about 500-700 RPM.
You adjust the two carbs by putting your finger over the vacuum hose (that goes to the preheater thermostatic bimetal control assembly on the right air horn) and taking your finger off and back on as necessary and adjust those little mixture screws on each carb until you get just barely a little RPM drop when you take your finger off the hose. If the RPMs go up, you're too rich. If the engine drops rough, you're too lean. Once you have the perfect little RPM drop, check for equal mixtures by pulling the wire off each little solenoid and see if they give you exactly equal horrible shaking for the instant that you test it. ( my engine gives 450 rpm on each carb ) If the engine always stalls when you pull the wire on the left side, for example,it means
the right side is too lean.
Make them the same, test the vacuum hose finger-off little rpm drop, put the hose back on, and then finally, plug in the central solenoid, blip the throttle to bring the central circuit back in, re-attach the retard hose, and you should have a sustainable idle now. Guess what? You can now use the vacuum hose to the preheater thermostatic control bimetal assembly in the right airhorn to adjust the mixture on the central idling circuit. First, get RPMs down( or up) to about 950 or so with the big screw on top of the left carb. Lean out by turning in, the little mixture screw on top of the left carb ( on other side of air tube)until idle falters a bit, bring it back out, pull finger off hose, and you NOW want to have the idle go up when you release your finger from the hose, so adjust the mixture until the idle goes up about 50-75 rpm with finger off the hose, and then put the hose back on ( for the last time)the preheater thermostatic bimetal control assembly when you are done.
Final adjustment, idle speed at central big screw to 950 -1000 RPM.
You want a richer central circuit mixture, and a slightly lean mixture at carbs. This will give you buttery smooth transition off idle when you pull away from a stop. This will give you a safety if you get a minor unexpected air leak, it will help you not get a blowtorch lean condition if a rubber elbow splits. The richer central mixture also helps your warm-up driveability, and reduces the tendency to lose your idle when you come barrelling up to a stop light.
If your dual carbs are too rich at idle, they will give you a *rich* flat spot when you step on the gas, because the accelerator pumps will completely overdo it, yet most people think that flat spot is a *lean* flat spot. Did this help?
Colin
-
robot 271
solex carbs
Thanks Colin and all who replied I will try suggestions and keep all posted
-
JeffH
- Posts: 60
- Joined: Thu Jul 13, 2000 12:01 am
solex carbs
Hi Guys,
I am also having trouble with my solexes
They are rebuilt with a gasket set and rebushed throttle spindles.
The engine idles at 1100rpm hot with the central idle screw all the way in so that there is no flow (solenoid had been disabled by cutting off the valve end)New hoses on all connecting pipes and new elbows on booster connections.
The throttle butterflys are adjusted to closed (they are the type with a small hole through the disc)
I can't find any air leaks and the bus drives fine and smoothly but the idle is high and the central idling is ineffective.
Any suggestions?
Jeff
I am also having trouble with my solexes
They are rebuilt with a gasket set and rebushed throttle spindles.
The engine idles at 1100rpm hot with the central idle screw all the way in so that there is no flow (solenoid had been disabled by cutting off the valve end)New hoses on all connecting pipes and new elbows on booster connections.
The throttle butterflys are adjusted to closed (they are the type with a small hole through the disc)
I can't find any air leaks and the bus drives fine and smoothly but the idle is high and the central idling is ineffective.
Any suggestions?
Jeff
-
amskeptic
- Posts: 666
- Joined: Thu Oct 24, 2002 1:01 am
solex carbs
Yes.
Check your timing. If you have the dual chamber vacuum advance/retard on your distributor, you are supposed to have functional retard at idle, about 5ATDC.
Pull off the inner hose, green on OEM buses, your idle should go up, put it back on, idle should go down. If you do not have the dual chamber vacuum advance/retard unit on your distributor, we cannot get the central circuit to work correctly for you, and you will be plagued with fast idles, slow idles, no idles. You DID check your choke links?
Sometimes the fast idle cams will hang up inside the choke housings and push just enough to make the throttle plate cover up the vacuum retard port.
Need info to go further. . .
Colin
Check your timing. If you have the dual chamber vacuum advance/retard on your distributor, you are supposed to have functional retard at idle, about 5ATDC.
Pull off the inner hose, green on OEM buses, your idle should go up, put it back on, idle should go down. If you do not have the dual chamber vacuum advance/retard unit on your distributor, we cannot get the central circuit to work correctly for you, and you will be plagued with fast idles, slow idles, no idles. You DID check your choke links?
Sometimes the fast idle cams will hang up inside the choke housings and push just enough to make the throttle plate cover up the vacuum retard port.
Need info to go further. . .
Colin
-
JeffH
- Posts: 60
- Joined: Thu Jul 13, 2000 12:01 am
solex carbs
I only have a single vacuum dissy timed at 7.5 BTDC
And no It is not hanging up on the choke cam
thanks
Jeff
And no It is not hanging up on the choke cam
thanks
Jeff