Want to buy a bus
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- Posts: 497
- Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2001 12:01 am
Want to buy a bus
i want to buy a bus real bad for some reason. the busses made in the 70's look a lot nicer than the early 60's. what year do they start the type for motor in a bus? can you put a type 1 motor in a bus that has a type 4 in it? where do you look for rust on a bus? is it easy to lower them like a bug is? thanks for the help with all the questions
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- Posts: 279
- Joined: Wed Jun 12, 2002 12:01 am
Want to buy a bus
The place to look for rust is in the wheel well area,the floor pans,frame,anywhere.The bay window busses are cool.I get waves and looks from females all the time.1972 busses had the type 4 motors in them.I think you can put in a type 1 but it takes some work.Look back in this forum for the answer.I may sell my 71 bus.I don't want to but lack of work may force a sale. JT
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- Posts: 2940
- Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2001 1:01 am
Want to buy a bus
Sounds like you want a 68-71 bus. Bay bad looks with T1 under power. 
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Adrian Pillow
'66 VW Westfalia - "Biscuit"
'67 VW Deluxe Westfakia - "Dino"
'79 Porsche 911 SC - "Cochese"

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Adrian Pillow
'66 VW Westfalia - "Biscuit"
'67 VW Deluxe Westfakia - "Dino"
'79 Porsche 911 SC - "Cochese"
- Bookwus
- Posts: 281
- Joined: Thu Feb 15, 2001 12:01 am
Want to buy a bus
Hiya Dub,
The engine rundown for Baywindow Busses goes something like this.....
68 through 71 found Type 1 engines installed in all USA export Busses. Starting in 69 these engines were 1600 SP and then in 71 they became 1600 DP.
72 through 79 was the era of the Type 4 engine. VW progressed from 1700 carbureted to 2000 FI during those years.
Can you install a Type 1 in a Type 4 Bus? Yes, if you throw enough money and time at it. This sort of transplant will require different tin and the fabrication of a rear hanger. Both possible; but that could get a little spendy. You'd be best advised to ditch your 091 tranny for an older 002 in order to accomodate the 1600.
Rust in the body is all repairable. But, again rust equals time and money. Obviously, if the stuff is right in front of your face (like the cargo floor for example) you have a serious situation. But do look in the doglegs, the battery trays, the rockers, and around the master cylinder. The more rust you see in these places, the more will be hidden stuff which is hard to find. The more you got the more you'll wind up paying.
I'm not sure about lowering the Baywindow. I'm a "stock" kinda guy myself. I know that it can be done but I'd guess it's nowhere as simple as lowering a Bug.
My advice to you is to go out and find a complete Bus in good shape minus the engine. I've seen a bunch of these advertised of late. Then get your hands on an engine for this Bus and install. Keep as close to stock as you can until you have a fairly reliable Bus. Then do your modifications. By that time you'll know a heckuva lot more about the Bus and what you can do with it. After all there is a definite learning curve with these things.
Oh, and for what it's worth, all VWs have their devoted followers. Don't rely on what some folks tout as the "only VW" to have. Get out there and drive a few and make up your own mind. I was dead-set on getting a splitty Bus, I didn't have the cash for that at the time so I found a 70 Baywindow. In the time I drove that Bus back from the PO's I knew that this was the Bus for me. Haven't even thought of a Splitty since then. So, make up your own mind and don't let the "It's gotta be this..." crowd influence you.
Mike
1970 Bus - The Ruptured Duck
The engine rundown for Baywindow Busses goes something like this.....
68 through 71 found Type 1 engines installed in all USA export Busses. Starting in 69 these engines were 1600 SP and then in 71 they became 1600 DP.
72 through 79 was the era of the Type 4 engine. VW progressed from 1700 carbureted to 2000 FI during those years.
Can you install a Type 1 in a Type 4 Bus? Yes, if you throw enough money and time at it. This sort of transplant will require different tin and the fabrication of a rear hanger. Both possible; but that could get a little spendy. You'd be best advised to ditch your 091 tranny for an older 002 in order to accomodate the 1600.
Rust in the body is all repairable. But, again rust equals time and money. Obviously, if the stuff is right in front of your face (like the cargo floor for example) you have a serious situation. But do look in the doglegs, the battery trays, the rockers, and around the master cylinder. The more rust you see in these places, the more will be hidden stuff which is hard to find. The more you got the more you'll wind up paying.
I'm not sure about lowering the Baywindow. I'm a "stock" kinda guy myself. I know that it can be done but I'd guess it's nowhere as simple as lowering a Bug.
My advice to you is to go out and find a complete Bus in good shape minus the engine. I've seen a bunch of these advertised of late. Then get your hands on an engine for this Bus and install. Keep as close to stock as you can until you have a fairly reliable Bus. Then do your modifications. By that time you'll know a heckuva lot more about the Bus and what you can do with it. After all there is a definite learning curve with these things.
Oh, and for what it's worth, all VWs have their devoted followers. Don't rely on what some folks tout as the "only VW" to have. Get out there and drive a few and make up your own mind. I was dead-set on getting a splitty Bus, I didn't have the cash for that at the time so I found a 70 Baywindow. In the time I drove that Bus back from the PO's I knew that this was the Bus for me. Haven't even thought of a Splitty since then. So, make up your own mind and don't let the "It's gotta be this..." crowd influence you.
Mike
1970 Bus - The Ruptured Duck
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- Posts: 279
- Joined: Wed Jun 12, 2002 12:01 am
Want to buy a bus
I don't know about the T1 mototr being under powered.I have a stock 1600 D/P in my 71 bus and I can cruise at 65 all day.I have hit 75 on a good day.I had to tow a friends full sized Dodge truck when it quit.It takes a bit to get to 65 but I can do it in 1/2 mile or so. JT