DIY beam adjuster

[AndyPandy]

First post so hello everyone. I traded my way into a 63 bug carcass and Im going to use some of its parts for a Baja bug that I’m building. I was removing the front link pin axle when I noticed the p. o. made their own beam adjuster. The top tube is sleeved so it can rotate but the sleeves only cover the tube about 2/3 the way around. The back side is unsleeved so that it can bolt to the front clip. Seems a bit sketchy to me so once I get the ride height where I want it, I’ll be welding everything shut. I had never seen this before so I thought I’d throw up some pix of it. Cheers Andy

[V8Nate]

Well that's one way of doing it!
Thanks for sharing

Nate

Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Due to all the cuts then welded closed sections and especially the open back of the tube I am pretty sure it has compromised the strength of the beam tube(s). Tubes are something to deal with politely!

There are kits available for changing things. By only putting an adjuster on the upper beam you can slightly raise or lower the front beam and change it's strength (soften the ride) of the upper beam.

Putting adjusters on both the top and bottom can lower or heighten the ride of the front of the bug and make the beam somewhat more stiff at the higher or lower settings.

Doing both torsion tubes, in my opinion, is both the upper and lower beams should have the adjusters for making a better ride although I am doing the upper tube only on my BJ beam and using the Thing front spindles for strength (hard to find and $$$$$).

Lee

[AndyPandy]

I was planning to heighten the tubes (increase distance between tubes) so the lp will fit on my 70 ball joint front clip. This will delete the parallel geometry of the torsion arms but I’ve read anecdotally that it doesn’t cause any problems. I guess I’ll find out. Also planning to remove the snubber and arm to increase travel. To limit suspension travel I was going to use either seat beats on shock mount or the steel cables used on some pick up trucks to limit the travel of tail gates.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Andy, there is a way to strengthen the BJ beam, but it is expensive and hard to find.

There is the option of converting the BJ setup to a K&L setup which just might be better. On the BJ fix one has to find a certain pair of spindles arms and adjusters, but I am getting old and can't remember what VW it came from (it will be a while before it comes back )

The converting the BJ beam mount is fairly easy as you will need the mounting plate from a BJ pan. You remove the BJ mount by going after the spot welds to remove the mounting plate but LEAVE THE LOWER PLATE ALONE as you will need it to mount the earlier mount on it just like it was from the factory.

I'll try to find the pix later on in the day.

Lee

[AndyPandy]

Thanks Lee but different spindles may be a non starter. I already have a pair of ghia spindles that I want to use since they are disc brake. I also want the larger type 3 drums in back for stopping power.

[Steve Arndt]

That style is called a "select a drop".

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewt ... p?p=988013

[Ol'fogasaurus]

The main weakness of the BJ set-up is that the lower BJ can be pulled out of the lower arm on hard and long travel suspension travel. The lower BJ is pressed in from the upper surface and the BJ connection is made to the spindle on the top of the lower arm.

The Thing 181 changed that by bringing the lower connection of the spindle below the arm and the BJ, while still pressed in from the top, now has the connection pointing down instead of the normal up stance.

If you can find the complete Thing setup ($$$$$$$) it is best but next to that would be converting your suspension to K&L. Takes some work but if you are hard on the front suspension this might be better/safer than the stock setup.

Lee

[AndyPandy]

It’s definitely a “select a drop”. I never heard of it before. Another mystery solved!

[Ol'fogasaurus]

If you are planning on only going nose down or even nose up you can make small adjustments with the upper and lowering by adjusting bolts in the center of each of the front tubes. By adjusting one then you can adjust the ride of the front of the car. You can also increase that by cutting the tube(s), rotating it/them up or down, then welding the beam tubes back together.

With all that cutting and welding I thought it was going to be a HD work beam. Sorry!

The damage to the beam tubes I talked about is still true.

Lee