Small, roll-around table built out of old parts.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I have been having problems posting so I had an expert come up and look at things. This is a test to see if I can now post again.

I was given a very used chair that had the ability to roll around.

IMG_2710 - Copy.JPG

There will be a short vertical post added (to be decided on how long) then the tabletop (the size of which has to be decided on).

Again, this might be deleted as it is for a test post only.

Lee

[SCOTTRODS]

I had a Small trailer "chair" like that once... I mounted a ball on a plate, then mounted the plate on a 5 wheel chair base like that, so I could roll my trailer around without hooking up and or lifting to move it. I left the adjustable height mechanism on it as well, so I could adjust the height with different weights on it... I still have the trailer but stowed on it's side due to city code enforcement BS, but the chair/trolley is gone now. the trailer is a HF 4x8 foldable trailer with a 1/4 steel diamond plate solid bed attached a bit heavy for it's size due to the plate... hence the trolley. Chair bases have a wide variety of uses... your adaptation sounds like another great one I may try one day.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I'm still having some computer issues but this time dealing with photographs. When I figure out the problem, I'll update what I have done so far.

It's not going to be a fast build but there is a time for it to be done.

Lee

[Ol'fogasaurus]

IMG_2771 copy.jpg

This is the bottom of the table to be. The legs are roughly 15" long and the wheels angle I am not sure of. The ~ 15" seems to be very typical of chair mounts but I haven't seen everything out there. One thing to remember is that the wheels do cause some moving around and just pulling things straight back does have some side movement usually.

The mounting area in the tube is close to some tubing sizes so some planning ahead is required.

The underside of the mount has a closed hole that you have a fastener sticking through which requires a washer also.

IMG_2770 copy.jpg

This shows the fastener I am using and the sleeve needed to mount the fastener into the long vertical tube.

The bolt I got is a shoulder bolt and is about a 1/2" in diameter. The head of the bolt is a Allen head bolt. It is an unusual bolt as the larger flange part of the head is very close in dimeter to the "grip" part of the bolt. I had to machine a very small part of the head to get it to fit into the tube also shown in the pix.

The tube is a welded seam tube (to be honest, I don't know the diameters of the tube mainly because I am lazy. If it fit... move on) and the bolt almost fitted in, but I did have to use a rotary file to grind the inner part of the weld to match the inside of the tube. This tube will fit into the next larger tube I am using but again, grinding the seams in the inside is needed.

The but end is a change in design for a better fit.

I drilled a small hole through the one wall of the tube and a very short distance in the tube then csk the hole in the tube allowing me to weld the two together. I then machined the welded area flat for fit.

This is the mounting assy slid into the outer tube.

IMG_2774 copy.jpg

This is the underside of the mounting of the fastener assy into the mount.

I had to open up the lower hole in the mount as it was (I think) metric so a 1/2" drill finished the job. The nut and washer were put on and hand tightened for now, but the main tube is solidly locked in place.

There will be another larger diameter tube at the top of the mount to help keep some of the side or heaving loading away from the mount itself. Since this is going to be a table and there will be little kids (young great grandkids) who might want to climb onto the table. Not sure what the top of the table size will be and the same for the height of the table off the ground.

When I was a mechanic (snort) my boss had a similar setup (4 wheels) that was tall enough to allow him to put books/instructions on and he also used it for tools (wasn't allowed to use it). When a vehicle was on the "lift" it allowed him to move around and move the "desk" with it. I have forgotten about it until last night. It might be a good idea for someone to use.

Lee

[SCOTTRODS]

Looks good, Lee. I'd use it... LOL

[Ol'fogasaurus]

This table is for camping where those of us sitting around can enjoy themselves. Folding chairs are good but use is somewhat limited but to have an easily moved around table for "nummy stuff" can also make things easier. We can have over a dozen people there at times (plus it gets rid of some of the crap in my garage).

The table height is part of the problem but so is the size of the table. The 30" dimension would be about the smallest dimension I could deal with without having the problem of people tripping over the legs. as they walked too close to the table.

As I said, the 15" in length of each leg means a ~30" circle/square so the dimension of the table top that has to be delt with that. I was planning on a 3' by 3' square table but then that ends up being larger than it sounds when compared to a circle. The other option was a 3' X 4'-inch top which also means large length and width, but also it means the mounting area under the table needs a different support design.

After measuring a lot of chairs, the measurements range around 16" to 18" with dining chairs being taller. The table design is that it will be able to be taken apart for storing them or taking them with us would take up less room (truck).

Sorry about the multiply pictures in the last post but still not comfortable with the new computer and the way it works. I hope I learn it soon.

Lee

[SCOTTRODS]

Oh Lordy! I see the dilemma in size. For Glamping, I'd be seeking a less portable/movable design... but around my shop/garage, it'd be a good table...

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Oh Lordy! I see the dilemma in size. For Glamping, I'd be seeking a less portable/movable design... but around my shop/garage, it'd be a good table...

I was just over talking to my neighbor about it. I was looking to see if he had any camping tables for ideas and dimensions for a camping table similar to what I am doing (I'm looking for height dimensions, but the wheeled mount itself also comes into the debate... so people (mostly kids running around) don't trip over the wheeled feet. Without getting into a lot of private stuff this table will stay there. We ended up talking about structure and grandkid's actions stuff and their potential actions that probably are needed causing different structural requirements, among them bolt design and the under the tabletop structure.

The nearest tabletop dimension I can come up with will probably be around 24" or maybe a bit higher. This is a "no knees under" type of table, more like being used for peanut bag or bucket sitting location along with cans of soda.

In many ways it is like being back at work designing things then drawing them up (in my head not on the drafting table) then looking for the good and bad of each idea. Like most everything else, safety is a predominate thing in the design.

The idea of the mobile roll-around book stand, something I saw out of the mid-60's, came back to me during a couple of the mental design debates. Again, if you have a car lift it might be a good idea following directions of the new parts being added or replacement.

Lee

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Still playing around with the design on the small table.

Had to throw in the dia. of the rolling bottom mount cause people could trip over it walking too close to the table. Then there is the height of the table and the height of the seats around then there is structure of the tabletop's mount to both the table and the upright mount to the stand. When you have great grandkids (under 3 years old and up) running around so you never know if one might try to jump on it. when getting caught up in running around.

Lee

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I put the bolts in the sleeves today on one of the two table posts (the posts are of slightly different heights). There is a thing called "capturing fasteners (bolts)" that I don't normally recommend using that I used. There are several ways to do this but be careful if you are using them.

I sat in (many, many years ago) on conversation/meeting (at my desk which is why I got to "sit in" on the discussion) about doing "capturing" fasteners (specialists on stress and several other types of design specialists including the engineers I was assigned work for at the time).

In this case I did, the directional loading is going to be small as it is the main post holding the tabletop in place on the wheeled stand. The loading in this case is going to be (should be ) light and other than using the threads to hold the post in place but any other directions should be light if any at all (young great-grandchildren for instance), loading should not affect the capturing of the threaded part of the capture as I think the wheeled legs could fail or move enough to absorb the loading.

In the pictures (I posted in previous posts) the fasteners were inserted into a sleeve and that assembly is slid into the main post. I drilled holes through the sleeves and into the fastener then welded the assemblies together through the holes and at the end of the assembly.

For heavier loading I do not recommend doing this as the linear loading on the assembly could pull apart or the material(s) could fail.

One of the other parts of the discussion was the capturing of higher-grade fasteners in weaker (castings for example) or aged materials as the load characteristics of each material could be too far apart to handle the loading especially directional loading. The materials in fasteners can be quite a bit stronger than the materials used for casting for example plus the manufacturing process of fasteners (in my case MIL standards were what I designed to use. Commercial standards could be quite different than the MIL standards. I'm not sure if commercial fasteners not built to MIL standards and I';m not sure about ASME or ISO standards also.

The fasteners I got for the two vertical posts I could not get much information about them other than the threads were rolled. The fasteners only were to the company's standard as far as I could find out. When drilling into them they looked and acted fairly soft but should be OK for what they are being used for.

Lee

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I forgot to mention that most of the potential loading will be compression loading with the upright tube handling most of that unless someone picks the assembly up by the tabletop. The hanging loading will be less that 10 pounds.

Lee

[Piledriver]

Along the same idea...
I picked up a 2 stage transmission jack a few weeks ago to work under my new-to-me lift (still going through that, but its functional)

In any case, the ~14 x 14" tiltable/rotating table with height adjustment works great for holding a manual or one of those silicone tool holders from HF. (I need to get the big one, the little ones work great too)

Thought about making a drop on table top for it, but too many other projects.

The transmission tie down chain/hook bits are a bit suspect, but the slotted angle iron bits on the edge look like they would take the small tie down straps with sheet metal hooks fine.

Its a bit expensive to just use as a table but if you have one it works awesome.
OTOH they really don't cost that much more than the commercially available mechanics tables, and these are supposedly rated for 1100 lbs and jack way up.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Along the same idea...
I picked up a 2 stage transmission jack a few weeks ago to work under my new-to-me lift (still going through that, but its functional)

In any case, the ~14 x 14" tiltable/rotating table with height adjustment works great for holding a manual or one of those silicone tool holders from HF. (I need to get the big one, the little ones work great too)

Thought about making a drop on table top for it, but too many other projects.

The transmission tie down chain/hook bits are a bit suspect, but the slotted angle iron bits on the edge look like they would take the small tie down straps with sheet metal hooks fine.

Its a bit expensive to just use as a table but if you have one it works awesome.
OTOH they really don't cost that much more than the commercially available mechanics tables, and these are supposedly rated for 1100 lbs and jack way up.

Never thought about that but a good idea. The stand-up reading table idea one might use when working on a car on a lift or even maybe a low version on when laying down on the job and having the table with book, tools or something else that you could roll around when under the vehicle when you are under it might be another good idea for recycling a chair when the seat retires.

A roll around base would not be hard to make out of scrap also.

A little imagination is always a good thing to have.

Thanks for the idea as I still have one aged seat I could use for something other than another table.

Lee

[Ol'fogasaurus]

https://www.msn.com/en-us/shopping?loca ... e8f8&ei=12

There is a roll arouind variable height worktable or desk available now but the height difference is not what I wanted... the same with the price.

Lee

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I have had a second chair that is similar to the other chair except it is adjustable in height. After taking the seat back off and the seat pad itself off the lowest height to the seat mount is something like 14" and the highest is 19" (that is measured to the top of the plywood seat base).

Got thinking about its use (other than as a table) and a chair and all of a sudden I came up with a place for the peanut bag or more realistically as a movable mount for the plastic bucket for the empty peanut shells. That bucket does get moved around a lot for sure and this might make things easier.

Recycle of reuse!

Lee