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I picked up a 1776 turn-key for my car. I got the engine to TDC #1. Removed the valve cover... and I cannot get a feeler gauge to fit between the adjuster and the push rod. Upon further inspection, it appears to have elephant foot/ Porsche style swivel foot adjusters. Rotated the engine for #2... same problem. Been researching since. Haven't found the answers I have been looking for.

At TDC is there supposed to be a gap like the stock assembly? Am I supposed to adjust these things the same way? What am I missing here?

Update: I was able to wedge a 0.006" feeler gauge partially between an adjuster and push rod... so Maybe they are just tight. Looks like they use an allen wrench instead of a slotted screw driver to make adjustments.

Those look like the adjustors the Bergs used to sell. They take a hex tool instead of a flat screwdriver.

Good job!

Max

Could be. They definitely take a hex tool. I was pretty surprised to see the lifters are factory, Gut instinct was EMPI.

The fastener w/o a head on it but using hex wrenches aka keys to control the tightening of the nut so you get better/more precise control of the setting of the bolt than the types of screwdriver blades/heads out there. They've been around for a long time but you just don't see them that often.

Lee

I'm not sure if anyone noticed the statement, but...

"and I cannot get a feeler gauge to fit between the adjuster and the push rod."

gave me pause... I hope that the measurement taken is *between the adjuster and the valve*, not the rocker and the pushrod... Otherwise I don't have a proper feeler gauge or know what the hell I'm doing after almost 42 years of VW's... I'm thinking that the description is just wrong, but this is worth a mention.

Yes, the .006 should be between the valve stem and the foot of the adjuster at TDC on the compression stroke. I assumed the original post was just a typo.

Max

Yeah... I was probably a bit off on my nomenclature. My engine knowledge stops at things that bolt onto it and routine maintenance. Should have gone with the "arm thingy with the adjuster and the metal rod under it". ;P

But uh, that gap should be .006 just like a stock motor? Similar adjustment but with different tools. Not some weird alien technology?

rsb wrote: ↑Tue Nov 30, 2021 8:21 pm But uh, that gap should be .006 just like a stock motor?

If the pushrods are aluminum the lash should be .006". If they are steel it's "loose zero". Both measurements taken cold.

The difference is how the two metals expand wrt the cylinders.

Max

Awesome! Thanks Max! Guess i will be slapping a magnet on those pushrods to see if it sticks.

A magnet sticks to the push rods... "loose tight" it is! They seem to be pretty much there. Going to just check everything and button it up.

Use a clearance of 0.006 regardless. That hex tool is known as an Allen wrench and that is an Allen head fastener. When you slide the feeler gauge in the space it should be snug and try to get it flat in the space. If the feller is rubbing against the valve stem edge or the follower edge it will feel like it is dragging and it will feel like it is too tight. Get it flat and it will not drag. Then you know that it is set correctly. The idea about the clearance is you want some clearance even when everything is hot so you can be sure that the valve is seating properly on the valve seat and sealing the combustion chamber from the outside world so you can make some power. Not having the clearance is bad for the valve and valve seat. Inadequate clearance can lead to burned valves and burned seats, all very bad.

It looks like #1 intake is adjusted tighter than the exhaust based upon the number of threads exposed. If they are adjusted properly and are cold you should be able to feel the gap when you wiggle the rocker arms. And yes, the clearance is the same as a bone stock engine. "elephant' foot refers to the round tail lights on the 1973 and newer Beetles and Super Beetles. It doesn't apply to the thingies (adjustment caps) on the rocker arms.