New upright project 1.8? not a 1.8

[onwardtothestars]

Picked up a 1.8 long block or what I think is a 1.8. Engine code is a EC. Which I guess is a California spec 1.8. Red flag on initial inspection is GEX stampings on the case halves.
Pulling the valve covers I find no rockers nor pushrods, and “GEX” and “DX” stamps next to the casting numbers.

Removing the heads they look like 2.0 units based on the combustion chamber shape.
***edit*** found my calipers and measured the pistons, 93.5mm so I guess these are the low compression 94mm units.
There’s a shim both at the top a bottom of the cylinder, tons of carbon build up. Shims appear to be .7mm

Lifters look nearly new with little sign of wear, also what I can see of the cam lobes.

So, questions to start, are shims usual on a stock engine build on the top and bottom of the cylinders?

So, to figure out if this is a straight 2.0 build, I guess I could measure the stroke ? any easy way to figure if it's a 71mm or 66mm stroke ?

[Bruce.m]

Pop off a piston and look at the end of the rod. The short stroke rods have a lump on the end (inside the piston)

[onwardtothestars]

Pop off a piston and look at the end of the rod. The short stroke rods have a lump on the end (inside the piston)

I was looking at tunacans site on web archive and it seems to be the opposite, nubs on the 1.7/1.8 rods, none on the 2.0 rod.
No nubs

[H2OSB]

You guys are saying the same thing. Bruce is correct, the rods for the 66mm crank have a rectangular pad on the very end, while the rods for the 71mm crank are smooth on the end.

H2OSB

[Bruce.m]

Yup, what he said. Sounds like you have a long stroke 71mm crank from the 2.0 engine.

You can also tell from the piston height (measurement from piston pin to the top of the piston) but the rod type has already answered the question

[Clatter]

Those are 2.0 914 heads!
Score!
GEX or no GEX, people like those.

Those heads have huge chambers.
With dished pistons -and- shims, it was probably a pig at like 6:1 CR.
With some flat-tops and careful attention (and some luck),
You might just be able to build a nice motor out of that stuff.

GEX isn't 100% bad all of the time.
They do just enough stuff right to fool some of the people some of the time.
Maybe you're one of the lucky ones.

[Bruce.m]

Lol, nice score on the heads. It will have been a low compression slug, but at least the heads will have seen minimal heat! (Unless someone screwed up the timing). So you could see that as a positive for you.

Have they drilled it for the 4 intake studs or does it still have the 3 stud Porsche config. I’d also check the valve guides, to see if they are the original size or smaller (9mm or 8mm).

[onwardtothestars]

So, bought some cheap AA 94mm flat top pistons. Cleaned the cylinders and took them to be honed today.

Heads are still three stud Porsche style. Going to take them apart here soon to clean more and lap the valves if all looks well. I see what the valve stem size is, I hadn't thought to look.

scored a set of 36 DLRA's, and found all my tin pieces to piece together a Joe cali style tin with a 36 horse style shroud.

[onwardtothestars]

Took apart the heads finally to clean everything up. Intakes are 8mm stem and exhaust are 9mm. Aftermarket valves on all it appears. ATE intakes, KTRWT exhausts.
Guides are really clean and shinny still, seats are clean.

Currently cleaning the cylinder spigots so I can install the pistons and cylinders to get a base deck height as to not completely joe-six-pack this engine as I tend to do.

Was trying to get a factory guess to the combustion chambers on 2.0 914 heads and I found 57cc and 60cc. I guess I’ll find a old spool of cd-r’s to get a clear disc etc.

[onwardtothestars]

More cleaning, can’t find my valve lapping tool, will
Pick up a new one tomorrow.

The cylinders have no identification marks at all besides “S” in the picture, any ideas? The fins are very hard, the etcher just skates off.

[Bruce.m]

“S” is possibly “standard”. Ie not oversized.

Have a very good look at the valve seats. They should have the original 3 angle seat cut. If they seats widths look okay (not too wide at the contact face) then a light lap should be fine. If they need more than that I’d suggest getting them recut professionally. If you lap a bit too far & make the contact face too wide, there is less pressure on the sealing surface to keep it gas-tight.

The heads are worth it

[onwardtothestars]

Thanks Bruce, I’ll check them closely. Learning as I go here and any knowledge bestowed on me is greatly appreciated

[Bruce.m]

From the workshop manual, the original specs (designed for mileage rather than max performance).

[Bruce.m]

[onwardtothestars]

Thanks again Bruce. Which shop manual is that ? One for a type 2 ?