Going under the knife

[Ol'fogasaurus]

"I other news, I hurt the new paint. I lowered the front and a jack-stand was in the way.

It's my first ding. "

That is the way it usually is... overly careful then... KA-bam. Looking good so far but sorry to see the dam(n)age. I've done a few of them myself.

Lee

[Max Welton]

When the car is fully together I'll decide what to do about it. One thing is I won't be all stressed about putting that first dent in the car.

So before I finish up the engine wiring I'm hooking up the fuel lines.

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Some friends are coming over in an hour so progress will resume tomorrow.

Max

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Is the copper tube for mockup only?

Usually copper isn't the normal recommended for hard lines.

For what it is worth: copper lines are not recommended for diesel lines because of chemical reactions. In doing some reading even for straight gas it is not always recommended. Fresh copper is soft and malleable but hardens over time.

Lee

[Max Welton]

It's Nickle-Copper brake line. If it's good enough for brakes it's good enough for fuel.

Max

[Ol'fogasaurus]

https://garage.eastwood.com/eastwood-ch ... 5%20Nickel.

Lee

[Max Welton]

Exactly.

Max

[Piledriver]

Great stuff and super easy to work with.
Available in sizes at least up to 1/2"...
Neat little trick for rubber line connections is you can easily put a partial flare on the ends and polish the OD lip so you can still work the hose on without damage, once clamped it's not coming off.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

On the flairs there are quite a few different styles of types of tube connections but for slide on with a soft tube connection the bubble flair at the end or there is another style that is done a bit farther back on the tube that I like best. Couldn't find a tool specifically for the set back bubble flair though which I kind of like best as it gives some inside support before bending happens..

Lee

[Max Welton]

Great stuff and super easy to work with.
Available in sizes at least up to 1/2"...
Neat little trick for rubber line connections is you can easily put a partial flare on the ends and polish the OD lip so you can still work the hose on without damage, once clamped it's not coming off.

Agreed. From page 15:

Putting a slight flare in was easy. Just tap this drift punch into the end of the tube, then work the raised edge with the wire wheel on my bench grinder so it isn't a sharp edge.

The 5/16" hose takes some work to get on but once it's clamped, it isn't going anywhere. It doesn't take much.

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Max

[Max Welton]

Fuel lines connected.

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Since I have had the starter wire slip off many times ... a ring connector.

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OK. Apart from the pressure gauge this is the engine. Well ... it will be after I install the air-cleaner.

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Max

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Max, for what it is worth: That kind of flare can cause a clamped in place soft line (because of the hard and even slightly raised end of the flair) to fail prematurely. This is why why we weren't allowed to use it for many things back on the good ol' days. The bubble flair is easier on the clamped in place soft line even if there is some slippage that happens.

Lee

[Max Welton]

Thanks Lee

Max

[Piledriver]

A high pressure reinforced hose probably isn't going to willingly slide over a full bubble flare... although if you do manage to get it over the bubble, it is not likely to come off without cutting. The partial flare with a bit of a lip polish works well under 500mph/500 feet AGL.

[vwfye]

20 sec in boiling water. Slide on and let cool

[Ol'fogasaurus]

A high pressure reinforced hose probably isn't going to willingly slide over a full bubble flare... although if you do manage to get it over the bubble, it is not likely to come off without cutting. The partial flare with a bit of a lip polish works well under 500mph/500 feet AGL.

It probably isn't going to go over the type of flare he is using easily either and still be contained well. Slight flairs are just that... slight and don't have the holding power that a correct flare has.

http://www.fedhillusa.com/webnuts/common%20flares6.pdf

The URL here shows flares used with nuts but they are also used with clamps with soft tubes. It is the sharp end of the flare that bother's me most in this case but I still would advise using the bubble flare if you can. There are this kind of flare that also has a fold back to it which would make it safer.

https://www.bing.com/images/search?view ... ajaxserp=0

A showing of a lot of the different types of flares and it shows a pix of the "bead flare" that I was talking about.

Lee