2108cc Efi Turbo Thing project

[WickedWagens]

Well, the Ghia is a full time race car now, and I never got to finish the EFI turbo project. I just sold the 1807cc with Kadrons out of my VW Thing, so I was thinking of bringing my EFI project back to life. I have everything to put the 2108cc back together and I never got to play with the Megasquirt EFI. I think its time to bring this project back to life and stuff it in my Thing.
[quote=WickedWagens post_id=991561 time=1263366024 user_id=12721]

[rubenski]

Following!

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A750FN met Tapatalk

[WickedWagens]

I have a DPR 76mm crank with 311b connecting rods. I’m wondering if i want to switch out the rods to some I or H beams with arp bolts. Decesions, decisions. Pistons and cylinders will be mahle 94mm with Revmaster 40x35.5 cnc turbo heads. Cam is going to be an SL-1 racing. I might use the R-304 as I was really happy with it in my 1915cc. The only problem is that it is in the 1516cc right now. More decisions to make.

[Clonebug]

I have a DPR 76mm crank with 311b connecting rods. I’m wondering if i want to switch out the rods to some I or H beams with arp bolts. Decesions, decisions. Pistons and cylinders will be mahle 94mm with Revmaster 40x35.5 cnc turbo heads. Cam is going to be an SL-1 racing. I might use the R-304 as I was really happy with it in my 1915cc. The only problem is that it is in the 1516cc right now. More decisions to make.

How high you plan on revving it???
Stock rods are more than capable of supporting serious hp.
If unsure you can replace the bolts with something a little stronger but I would bet stockers would support 6000 plus rpm and 300 plus hp.
The Swedes put a hurting on stock parts with good results.

[WickedWagens]

Yeah, what I ran into was ARP bolt for the stock rods are about $150, for not much more I can get new rods with ARP bolts. I’m plenty good with the 300hp, but I’m sure I’ll like to take it to 7,000 here and there. I better just get some new ones to be safe.

[Chip Birks]

A new set of H beams are pretty cheap insurance. I run them in my stuff. I have no problem taking mine to 7500. That said, I've run stock ones over 9k with boost, slipping clutch and stuff in my dads old draw through. Eventually that engine spun a bearing after a missed shift, and the rods got replaced with h-beams. The stockers never failed though, just got warm with no bearing.

[madmike]

I'll use stock rod's only on non-stroked engines H-beams for strokers at least for peace of mind
I've seen stock rods fail cuz someone 'clearanced' them for a stroker

[WickedWagens]

Yeah, these are slightly clearanced on the rod cap and the bolt. I'm just going to look into getting new ones. I need to see if I have A or B pistons to see what length rods. I would like to keep it semi narrow to clear the engine bay. I usually do 5.4 rods with A pistons on 76mm and it just needs about .130" in shims. It looks like you can do 5.5" rods and B pistons and it will be close to stock deck.

[WickedWagens]

I am ordering a set of I beam rods with ARP bolts and I talked to Shag with SL-1 racing about getting another r304 cam. He recommended an r292 for this build. He said it will make more torque off boost and more power overall. I hope the torque will help with the tall tires.

[WickedWagens]

Parts are here! SL-1 Racing cam and lifters along with Scat rods with 3/8" ARP bolts.

[buguy]

Ooooh! I'm excited for you!! I need to order some parts!

[CHAse580]

Parts are here! SL-1 Racing cam and lifters along with Scat rods with 3/8" ARP bolts.

I have the same cam but went with H beams (84x92). I recommend chamfering the cam lobes, as the edges are very sharp.

Power down low is great and based on my data logs, my MAP usually hits >100 kPa around 2600 rpm. The turbo I chose was a Turbonetics T3/T04E with 57 trim wheel.

[MarioVelotta]

Nice!