1776 options

[lil_azza]

So im putting together a 1776
Nothing to powerfull just a up in cc
Got a pair or kadrons
So engle w100
Or scat c??
Straight cut gears?
What size oil pump?
Heads will be just fettled
Stock rockers etc
Also vac dizzy or 009? Cheers

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Lil, what are you going to be doing with the engine?

I have a 1776 also: reground stock cam regrund to a torque type of a grind (bottom end power with a RPM cap of just over 5000), dual 40 Dels, stock heads and valves and an 009 (that had been "spun" to check everything out. Remember that there are several 009s with some being better than others. A lot of people like to use a single vacuum type of distributor even if they don't use the vacuum advance). I am also using a RPM limiting rotor in the distributor. I also run a 4 into 1 free flowing, but quiet, exhaust system.

If what you are goinng to use if for allows you to full flow it then do. The stock dog house cooler works well and I added an oil filter on the full flow system.

Very simple and pretty good for what I use mine for. Yours use may mean other components but this might give you some ideas.

Don't ignore the possibility of going to FI or a turbo either.

Lee

[Marc]

Are you planning to use the stock crankshaft? It's inadvisable to rev those beyond ~5000 RPM, so a conservative cam choice is wise. This also keeps the rest of the shopping list short, since you really don't need much in the way of valvetrain upgrades. Straight-cut gears are used to reduce thrust bearing wear on the cam which results from stiff valve springs, so they're not called for on a mild combination (unless you just dig the whirring noise).

In nearly every case, oil pumps bigger than 26mm just waste power and can actually cause the oil to run hotter. Do not use an iron-bodied pump.

Kadrons can be modified to provide a ported-vacuum signal; if your fuel prices are high the cost is easily justified, an SVDA distributor's "extra" advance at light loads will improve mileage. Without the vacuum, an SVDA is essentially nothing but an 009 with a slow curve . These take about 1000 more RPM to reach full centrifugal advance, so unless you're doing a lot of driving above 3500 RPM it's pretty pointless to run one sans vacuum.

As Lee points out, there are good and bad 009s...unfortunately the best ones haven't been manufactured for decades, and get smeared along with the cheaper, newer stuff. Even amongst the original German ones, though, there was considerable sample-to-sample variation since the factory acceptance spec's on the advance curve were pretty loose - some could take up to 15° initial timing to achieve the desired 30-32° @3000. Find one with good bushings with a 22° (or wider) curve and it should work just fine for this application.

Engle W100 would be a sensible cam choice; there are many alternatives...look for an advertised duration under 280°. The tamer ones can get along fine with good stock valvesprings (although IMO it's always a good idea to fit shims underneath to keep them from chewing into the heads). Bigger lifts mean faster ramp rates so HD springs can become necessary - stick with "entry-level" ones and you should be able to still get away with an otherwise-stock valvetrain.

I strongly recommend that you have the crank & flywheel 8-dowelled, if you aren't swearing an oath to never do hard launches/burnout attempts. In any case, fit an oversized glandnut washer. The added thickness will reduce the clearance to the clutch disc center unless a shortened glandnut is used to compensate, which can cause clutch drag down the road when the disc's worn thinner, so do remember to check that.

[lil_azza]

Wow thats for the replys guys
The engine is going in a bus
Unfortunately the engine iv bought to strip down isnt a bus case so il need a adapter

[Marc]

...Unfortunately the engine iv bought to strip down isnt a bus case so il need a adapter

Not great news, but those "Mickey Mount" adapters can be serviceable if well-installed. What's the codeletter on the case? Does its casting have ANY of the three rear mount bosses or will the oil pump studs and rear-lower through-bolt be the only means of support?

[lil_azza]

What do u mean by lower through bolt?
Its a AB CASE and lower right is a threaded hole but no others

[lil_azza]

Not my case but is the same il get the lugs tapped when i get the case cut

[Marc]

"AB" case stands a real good chance of being in great shape for its age (it's hard to damage a 1300, they don't make enough power to blow themselves up and usually just fade away).

The reason I asked about the bosses is that "pure" Beetle cases don't have any of them; sometimes only one case half has them, and you need to shorten them to allow for the thickness of the steel adapter bracket. The brackets are intended for cases with NO bosses, and support the engine by longer oil-pump studs (and a flat pump cover) as well as one of the m8 case bolts...a picture of one should make it clear: http://www2.cip1.com/v/vspfiles/photos/ ... 5036-2.jpg

The case pictured has all three of the bosses incorporated into its casting. If yours does too, no adapter required - just the drilling/tapping of the upper ones to m10x1.5 and the bottom one to 8x1.25. You may need to dress the end of one or more bosses with a file to get the "moustache bar" to sit comfortably against the case, but the bosses in the picture appear to have already been hit with the mill at the factory.

These holes are usually found HeliCoiled for Bus applications, but there's really no need IMO to go to that much trouble for bolts that shouldn't be removed/reinstalled frequently..."raw" threads should suffice (you can always HeliCoil them if they ever do need repair).

[lil_azza]

Thats ok then, it came out of a mates bug
Yea my case is like that but shouldnt beva problem either way need to hurry n strip it all down so i can order bearings whilst its being cut

[lil_azza]

Ok so a few updates and a few things came up so the engine took a back burner


Engine case now will work with the moustache bar
Have 90.5 barrels
Scat counterweighted crank 69mm
1:25 scat rockers and lash caps
Single hd springs
England W110 cam
Now I'm tempted to run stock size 34pict
Stock exhaust and heater boxes
Stock valves sizes in stock heads
Do I p&p them?

So is this gonna be any good in my baywindow
I've been told a stock cam will be better and run the rockers.
Again I'm not looking for a revive engine just better up hills I'm happy with 60-65 mph
Cheers

[66brm]

The w110 doesn't play nice at idle with the stock carb, better off with a w90 or cb cheater cam

[lil_azza]

I have heard this yes maybe il look for a w100
But still tempted by the stock cam also as im not looking for a revvy engine
Is there much difference torque wise between stock and a w100?

[66brm]

Quite a bit of difference, just remember to adjust compression to suit the cam you choose

[woodsbuggy1]

I have a W100 in my turbo 1776, it is ok but if I were to do it over, would choose a different cam. If you plan on running 1.25 rockers, then the stock cam should be fine. I would think that a minor clean up and gasket match along with a proper valve job should suit your needs.
Good Luck
Kenric

[Ol'fogasaurus]

On my 1776 I had a regrind that is more of a grunt cam; e.g., high lift short duration, a light wheel (not for everybody as not as much energy is stored there) and dual 40 Dels. I also had the oil passages full flowed, a bigger oil pump and an oil filter added. I don't need PRMs so much as I need grunt for climbing and going through soft sand.

Lee