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Does the dtm stand work with a joe cali conversion? Looks really nice compared to other stands, and it has the oil fill already on it.

Its a great foundation, but as no two Cali conversions are identical, fully expect to have to modify it.

Bummer. Don't know how to weld so I thought this would be better than the cip stuff.

The mods required would probably involve a file, not a welder.

The Cali conversion is literally built around the gen stand, so as long as its in about the right place, rigid and sealed its all good.

The one I built for my sons car used a slab of 1/2" aluminum plate, a smaller bit of same hanging underneath for the 8mm through bolt with a pair of 10mm bolts for the clamping action.

The rest consisted of a sawn off T1 alternator stand, and a big seat retention T bolt from a Bus, originally used to hold down the back seat. (A std 10mm bolt would have worked, but I had that handy)

It bolted together, and provided significant front/back, side to side and rotation adjustment for the belt alignment, vbelts run fine with the pulleys at a small angle, as long as the vertical plane lines up. Reverse the alt pulley.

Once I had everything made/alignd it came apart, cleaned, base block surface roughened and JBWelded in addition to the bolt to keep things from moving.

The stand was made with a sawzall, files, and a drill and a 10mm tap in an hour or so.

The wife and I did a round trip to Florida soon thereafer in his car with no issues, he had cam/lifter issues so I slapped it on a 1700 I had (and still run, now an 1800 in my squareback) it held up and I had zero issues, despite the very extended high speed run.

I don't have easy access to my sons car, but I will try to find a picture.

I thought of using some sort of epoxy but wasn't sure if it would hold up to the heat and vibrations in the compartment. We're you able to put a fill on also?

Yes, I adapted the factory T1 filler/breather to the base with a 8-12" section of 3/4" pipe threaded in on both ends, using a section cut off about 2" below the breather can (still has the internal nut), bottom screwed into the 1/2" plate.
The epoxy was mostly for anti-vibration/sealing purposes: it was quite rigid without it.
The stand attatched to the plate just behind the breather tower IIRC,
The filler/breather is towards the center of the motor.
No issue as there is no center mount carb.

I used a Mr. Gasket SBC bent dipstick tube and flexible dipstick (cut down and re-marked) to clear the alternator better.

I can't find any pictures, this was before ~everyone and their dog had a cell phone, 2002-2003 ish.
Will try to get a picture next week, need to pay a visit anyway.

It's a Very simple to make setup.
Joes Manual has the required dimensions.
(just cut it a tad tall and sneak up to it with a sander)

We didn't own a welder at that time so the everything was bolted or pop-riveted together.
It held up fine.
We'll probably revisit that this fall, based around the same gen stand.

Between the two of us we have so far acquired a Lincoln 220v Mig, a Thermal 181i (mig/tig/stick), Thermal 70A plasma cutter, and a Miller Syncrowave 250, so we might actually find a way to weld it this time.

The only thing "bad" about a Cali conversion is now I'm short two sets of T4 cooling tin.

Sweet, sounds like I'm going to have to get some metal and start throwing something together!

Got some pics of the stand this evening, its been resting in a barn for the last 10 years until he gets back to it.

This was very quickly hacked together as it had a tight deadline at the time.

The base is a 4"x5"x1/2" aluminum plate
The rest is a cut down std T1 alt stand, with the top section of the breather cut off and moved to center on a hunk of pipe.
No welding was involved. You can just make out the nut in back, a Tbolt from Bus seat holds things together, but ~any 10mm 8.8+ bolt/washer/nut setup would do.

The 17mm bolts heads go down tot the "lockdown" bit of 1/2" aluminum, the part the crosspin goes through, this clamps everything to the top of the tower.

This actually would look fine it it hadn't been under a tarp in a carport then barn for the last decade.

Thanks for the pictures. Looks pretty good as it stands for not being welded. Looks like it sits pretty flush also.

Piledriver wrote: ↑Sun Nov 08, 2015 8:04 pm Got some pics of the stand this evening, its been resting in a barn for the last 10 years until he gets back to it.

This was very quickly hacked together as it had a tight deadline at the time.

The base is a 4"x5"x1/2" aluminum plate
The rest is a cut down std T1 alt stand, with the top section of the breather cut off and moved to center on a hunk of pipe.
No welding was involved. You can just make out the nut in back, a Tbolt from Bus seat holds things together, but ~any 10mm 8.8+ bolt/washer/nut setup would do.

The 17mm bolts heads go down tot the "lockdown" bit of 1/2" aluminum, the part the crosspin goes through, this clamps everything to the top of the tower.

This actually would look fine it it hadn't been under a tarp in a carport then barn for the last decade.

IMG_1712.JPG
IMG_1719.JPG
IMG_1721.JPG

Can you update the photos? I can't get them to download to view.

Well, I apparently cant edit the old post, so this will have to do...

I did some editing as I was curious about some things:
Lee

Thanks guys for up dating the photos. Its a big help for us rookies.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DQI-h6S ... 1V&index=8
Great video of modifying a CSP alternator stand for a oil filler tube.