ShopTalk Forums | Aircooled VW Tech & Restoration Help

So Saturday, my buddy Robert and I were hold-up here at the shop getting the new 2316cc Type4 race motor that my son Josh built almost a year ago. It's a long story. . . But in a nut shell: he built it as his first engine build at age 14 after 6 years of being my tear-down master and all-around parts cleaning bubba. Dad (me) mis-measured a cylinder and upon start-up a year ago we had head leaks and with no time to get the cylinders corrected, we reluctantly put it aside for World of Speed 2014 and went with the back-up 2056cc.

So anyway, Robert and I get it stuffed and hooked-up by around noon on Saturday and though it needs to be tuned, it sounds great.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUBwnmRAI0Y

Then about an hour later,. . . we find out that World of Speed has been canceled. . .

On the bright side, we have a full year to get it dyno tuned. (sigh) Well, that's racin'!!

I'm gonna raise the back up about 3/4" just to give a bit more room for the sump.

You can mill off about 3/8" from the top of the snout of the Scat sump where it mates with the case. You will probably have to do some minor die-grinder adjustments to some areas on the block to clear. I have mine marked up to do this, so I admit that so far this is just theory. Added to your 3/4" suspension lift, it should get you to 5" clearance.

This guy has done exactly what you describe and it works for him. . . Not theory at all.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php? ... ++modified

Could you possibly go to a "drysump"? I use a simple 2-stage setup on my T-1 and, although it doesn't evac the case like a "true drysump", it allows me to run up to 10 quarts of oil without a deep sump, and the oil level in the sump is minimal, well below "full" after shutdown from extended idle. It does add complexity and a bunch of plumbing, obviously, but it keeps your tender bits from being so vulnerable, and you can run stupid oil volume if desired .

Love what you've done with that ride man, sad the race got canceled this year...

Hey Karl,

Thanks for the kind words. It's getting where I want to to be. It was a real bummer for sure!!

I already have a CB Performance dry sump pump , 3 gallon tank w/ an internal O-berg filter for the future. The big issue is that the in/out ports off the pump are right where the engine mounts are. . . I think I have a work-around for that.

Sounds like you've already got a plan, good deal. The "internal O-berg filter" sounds interesting, for the tank to pump inlet circuit I assume? I'm not a fan of filtering on the suck side of a pump, other than a course screen to prevent large chunks from damaging the pump. I ran a serviceable JayCee billet filter with the cleanable pleated element and O-rings on all sealing surfaces. I happen to run it while trying a set of Pauter Billet Roller rockers on my engine that ended up wearing badly, do to a ridiculous splash-lube ONLY design (personal opinion), and sent aluminum debris all through my engine. The filter did a horrible job of trapping the aluminum debris. Paper filters for me ever since, between the pump and the engine, always.

Milled 0.250" off of my Scat sump yesterday, it fits just fine. A properly fitted auxiliary sump is a sweet solution. Cheap, simple, reliable, and meets the KISS principle of design! Unless you hit a rock with it.

This is my used Richardson Racing oil tank with the O-Berg filter. The filter is on the inlet to the tank (pressure side of the scavenge pump). The motor still has a standard style filter after the pump.

That's a neat looking tank! Easy access to the filter and lots of connection options. Is that a heater ckt. option in there too?

The one-wire sender is a temp sensor. You can insert a heating element in the other one (currently plugged) if you want to run an oil pre-heater. Of course, there's a bung/plug on the bottom for a drain. It's just small enough to fit where the battery is under the rear seat. I would likely have to make the rear seat a "faux" seat or box it in because it would not be able to compress with someone sitting there.

The 914 mount on the suction side can easily be modified allowing the suction tube to pass through for a CB pump.
I made mine to clear 3/4 OD SS tubing, which in retrospect only seemed like a good idea at the time.
5/8" would have worked out better, or best a fabricated thin wall connection for rubber hose, but welder was not handy at that time. The fan housing support webbing needs a little trim, but it fits fine on stock cooling.

The scavenge outlet on a T4 is trivial, one option is use the original oil flow path to the filter, plugging the pressure pass through to the inner body, perhaps opening up the case passages a touch to aid scavenge.

The pressure outlet is smaller and easier to deal with, I punted and used an EMPI steel full flow cover.

Would require redrilling the crossbar and welding in some anti crush tubes and new rubber or solid mounts, but you have BTDT already a few times.

Hello.
Nice lookin´car, and too bad with the cancellation. Was the track too wet this year too ?

Since the car is to be used for the track along with high speeds/rpms, you might want to swop the exhaust system for a better one. The shorty header type with the 911 muffler works well up to about 53-5500 rpm. From there on up it limits especially the hp and the torque to some extent. It could easily make a difference of 5 - 7 mph trap speed.

Just a thought.

Another thing. I see that you have mounted V pattern tyres on it. That might not be the best solution. I have seen stability problems with this type of tyre on VW´s several times, which actually made me swop to differnt types of thread pattern and do not use the V pattern anymore. If you notice a problem you now have an idea where it may come from.
- For instance the Dunlop SP9000 tyre has a V pattern in the middle, but a "shoulder" on each side. That´s enough to make the car steady in its tracks.

Lets see a little more of the car

T

If i'm thinking right, the RR tire is mounted backwards?
(All I can see...)

The V tread should usher water to the outside edges, not towards the middle?
check rotation direction arrow.

There's a ~full build thread of the car in the Type 3 forum.
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... 4&t=138443

farmer wrote:Hello.
Nice lookin´car, and too bad with the cancellation. Was the track too wet this year too ?

Since the car is to be used for the track along with high speeds/rpms, you might want to swop the exhaust system for a better one. The shorty header type with the 911 muffler works well up to about 53-5500 rpm. From there on up it limits especially the hp and the torque to some extent. It could easily make a difference of 5 - 7 mph trap speed.

Just a thought.

Another thing. I see that you have mounted V pattern tyres on it. That might not be the best solution. I have seen stability problems with this type of tyre on VW´s several times, which actually made me swop to differnt types of thread pattern and do not use the V pattern anymore. If you notice a problem you now have an idea where it may come from.
- For instance the Dunlop SP9000 tyre has a V pattern in the middle, but a "shoulder" on each side. That´s enough to make the car steady in its tracks.

Lets see a little more of the car

T

They had a late, wet spring on the flats this year. Combine that with mining of the salt and there's just not enough of a crust to race on. They also had a large mud slide from the mountains that brought mud into the long track area so that was out for sure. We hoped we sould have enough for 1, maybe 2 short tracks, but that was just not to be this year. They need to stop the mining as that's the main problem on the flats now.

The exhaust is a custom 4 into 1 system that dumps into the banana can. I actually have a straight pipe for racing that replaces the banana can at the V-band. Since the racing got canceled, it's stripped a bit of my motivation to get it tuned properly. I'm going to have Mario Velotta over to the shop in a week or so to do some tuning on a clients 914 that I installed one of Mario's systems on. I'll have Mario do some tuning on mine as well and get it back on the road so I can break-in this new engine completely.

That's interesting about the tires. It does make sense though. Thanks for the heads-up on that. I may look into a different tread pattern when these wear out (probably in a year or less the way I drive ).

Piledriver wrote:The 914 mount on the suction side can easily be modified allowing the suction tube to pass through for a CB pump.
I made mine to clear 3/4 OD SS tubing, which in retrospect only seemed like a good idea at the time.
5/8" would have worked out better, or best a fabricated thin wall connection for rubber hose, but welder was not handy at that time. The fan housing support webbing needs a little trim, but it fits fine on stock cooling.

The scavenge outlet on a T4 is trivial, one option is use the original oil flow path to the filter, plugging the pressure pass through to the inner body, perhaps opening up the case passages a touch to aid scavenge.

The pressure outlet is smaller and easier to deal with, I punted and used an EMPI steel full flow cover.

Would require redrilling the crossbar and welding in some anti crush tubes and new rubber or solid mounts, but you have BTDT already a few times.

That gives me a different idea on how to deal with the tank in/out lines. . . Hmmmm. . . I'll have to ponder this more. . .

OK on the header. The pictures here did not reveal that. I will have a peak at the build thread.

OK. I guess the weather has been somewhat odd on the entire western hemisphere this year. We had a late spring too, and a WET summer here. Some farmers still have both wheat and rye on root, and the corn is only ½ to 2/3 of what it should have been. Not good. Hopefully september and october shows their friendly face.

T