still have reset or communication problems with my ms1 v2.2

[Thorkhild]

I think I am having reset isssues. I lose my usb serial connection to the ecu when i am cranking the engine when my coil is connected. If I completely disconnect coil I don't get any resets. The power for my coil is the same 12v source for my MS. I thought that this might be the problem so I ran a new wire straight from my battery to the coil as a test. when I powered the coil this way I noticed that my laptop with the usb serial adapter was acting like I was un-plugging and replugging a usb device. Also when I get the resets , my laptop shows that my usb device has stopped working.

I am wondering if its possible to have a short caused by the tach signal wire and my serial connector in the MS unit ?



My setup info:

MS 1 V2.2 running fuel only,

using relay board

tach signal from coil - , using pertronix 1 kit.

un jumpered xg1/xg2 , comes out to s1 on relay board to ground.

added 22uf cap between r10 and xg1.

ground for relay board go direct to battery. as does SP1 and o2 sensor.




Thanks

Eric

[Chip Birks]

And now you understand why everyone goes edis with your computer setup. Noise issues are the devil with distributors.

[buildabiggerboxer]

Most problems are hard to find because they are staring you in the face, Sounds to me It may just be a bad serial connector/USB cable.

[Piledriver]

Most problems are hard to find because they are staring you in the face, Sounds to me It may just be a bad serial connector/USB cable.

True.
You are better off with a long shielded serial cable vs. a long USB cable, lots of junky USB cables out there.

The distributor noise doesn't help, but it shouldn't be a showstopper.
Resistor type rotor/wires/plugs, correct? (at least one of the three must be resistor type, but all 3 hurts nothing)

[Thorkhild]

un shielded usb cable ...... Maybe I can find a shielded usb cable, or make my own.

Or I should just go BLUETOOTH!

non resistor NGK D8EAs, just picked up DR8EA to replace with.

probably non resistor wires. (Taylor 8mm from AC.net).


Hopefully I can get this to work soon.

[buildabiggerboxer]

un shielded usb cable ...... Maybe I can find a shielded usb cable, or make my own.

Or I should just go BLUETOOTH!

non resistor NGK D8EAs, just picked up DR8EA to replace with.

probably non resistor wires. (Taylor 8mm from AC.net).


Hopefully I can get this to work soon.

I Think you've solved your problem with the NGK resistor plugs, Mandatory items, now just run some central heating radiator heat reflecting tape down your USB cable.
Look at how seriously the OEM's take EMI for clues, they screen off every area of the electronics under plastic shrouds, early GTI's and such come with a screened dizzy cap, the screening can be removed and retro fitted to almost any VW dizzy with minimal modifying, even the proper rotor arm is a good idea, and the stock O'E wasserBoxer plug leads work well too, these fully screen the spark plugs under quality waterproof connectors, with nice right angled cap end connectors with built in resistor, ive found nothing yet to beat the genuine version of them.

[miniman82]

Non-resistor plugs and wires are where the majority of the noise is coming from, you have to use plugs with an R in the part number and suppression wires from any plate model can be made to fit just change the boots out. If it still resets after that it's likely that the distributor is causing the problem, in which case you should go distributorless and be done with it.

[Thorkhild]

Well I changed to resistor plugs, re-made my tach signal cable from coil - , Still got USB issues.


Then I tried using a db9 cable from the MS to my laptop, and plugged the usb adapter at the end . This is working great!!!
No more disconnects. !!!!

I am glad it was something so simple.

Now its time to tune.