ShopTalk Forums | Aircooled VW Tech & Restoration Help

I am trying to install 40mm dual carb manifolds with the engine in on my vw thing with plenty of engine bay room.The nuts In the rear are next to impossible to get on.I can barely reach my fingers around to touch the stud or come down over the top let alone to start the nut on the stud.The manifolds are the new empi beefy offsets that came with my deluxe hex bar linkage kit It seems to me these manifolds were made to install with the engine out like they show in the empi video.I had to push the engine tin in around the plugs because the back side of the manifolds were too thick and the manifold would not slide down over the studs.Would I be better off using the straight ones or some other type and still be able to use my hex bar linkage?I know it can be a PITA to get the rear nuts on but my situation is next to impossible.

Spark plugs and dual manifolds do rate difficult the first time, even with experience they can be a challenge, and I have to say ALL aftermarket stuff is a mare to fit, various tricks I use include spinning the nuts on using a length of tube, same for the spark plugs to get them started or remove hot ones, also go over to the 11mm header nuts or the barrel nuts for Allen sockets, these gain a load of room over the 12 or 13mm nuts usually supplied, you can normally fell the stud from round the back of the manifold to guide the nut into position, ready to spin it down with the tube in the other hand. now you can see why removable engine bay
side panels are a good idea. Stick with it and it will come good in the end.

Going to need to trim the cylinder tin,,, big time

SOP is to remove engine, test fit up, then re install.

If I trim the tin around the plugs,what effect will the extra heat have also where can you buy the allen head barrel nuts?

Barrell Nuts
It says that they are for the exhaust but they're both the same size thread.
I used a sand belt to reduce the size of my manifolds until they fit the tin. The manifolds have a lot of extra material that is not needed if you have stock ports.

Yes, they are EMPI... but are commonly available.

The 11mm hex brass nuts work better for most applications, esp if you are working by feel.

The downside of the barrel nuts is the studs have to be in a very narrow range of stick out to work, if too long they interfere with the hex wrench and you cannot get them tight or strip out.

The 11 hex nuts are small enough to clear ~anything and don't care how long the stud is as long as there are threads, use a deep socket if needed.

I have started using these everywhere, M8 Jet Nuts 10mm ATF.

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/ACN-Flange ... n-nuts.htm

And I have tried them all, M8 Japan (12mm ATF), stupid brass long nuts (11mm ATF), M8 with built in washer (13mm ATF).

sideshow wrote:....And I have tried them all, M8 Japan (12mm ATF),

I use the Japanese 12mm hex M8s and a fairly thick flat washer. I found if you use the 11mm hex nuts, the contact area is so small, it compresses the aluminum causing the clamp to become loose.
The 12mm hex allows the next smaller socket compared to a 13mm nut. I also took a Craftsman socket and turned the OD down for better clearance, and shortened it. Now, I use the right combination of wobbly extensions that I use my 3/8" drive ratchet to tighten all of them from above the carb.

Buy extra these good nuts help on exhaust installs too.