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Edit: since this thread has started Photosucket ruined the pic links. Here's a patch for that problem using firefox...

https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefo ... entlyadded

Ok, so it's taken a while but the new engine is well on the way to being built by my mechanic. He just needs a few odds and ends and it's altogether. I was going to go supercharged/intercooled, but the more i look at it, the more packaging is a nightmare and I'm not cutting up my engine bay.

So, thinking about a hideaway style setup, but being in Australia, shipping the CB header here costs almost as much as the price of the header. This means, I need to build something here, or assemble something from parts.

Specs;
1600DP
Stock except for dished pistons, balanced bottom end, SP2 mild street cam.

Questions;
1. What size runners? I assume stock right?
2. Does equal length matter that much? Can I build something unequal length and have good success?
3. Jap factory turbos (with wastegate)?

I'm planning on running a water/air intercooler and shooting for around 150-200hp with Microsquirt. Focus is on drivable torque, not top end screaming.

1 3/8" primary tubes, go as big as you want on the downpipe. Equal length matters not on the street, and find a T25 sized turbo for fast spool. You should be able to get 150hp pretty easily, especially if you can fit an intercooler.

So that's 1 3/8" ID tubing? Right?

Intercooler for sure.

Yup.

Tubing is measured by outside diameter.

My turbo guru buddy has told me to buy the CB header and stop being a tightwad. Waddayareckon?

Build something yourself or have one made.
CB header is too big for your application, and will rust just as fast.

Here is a kit that is reasonable

They even have collectors.

http://www.greatplainsas.com/scexhaust.html

You can get straight tubing locally...

Ok, so the next crazy idea. TWO Mitsubishi TD03-G7 turbos on short manifolds. Thought?

BTW, the thinking behind this to get the turbo/s UNDER the car neatly.

Run a TD03 as the primary and have a TD04 blow into the small one.

I have thought about doing it to my buggy but it would be a plumbing nightmare.

I have a TD04-9B and a TD04-13T sitting in the garage right now.........The TD04-9B is just a little guy.

Got a call from my engine builder yesterday. Motor is built and cam broken in. It's added up to a bit more $$$$ than I was expecting, but like I said to him, I know it's built right. This guy has built more engines than I've have hot dinners. I'll pick it up today. Should have cam and compression figures soon. Now to plan exhausts and turbos!

yeah its all the little bits that add up at the end of the build i'm finding!

great news though!

Right, so the motor is in my shed... specs are as follows; stock 1600 except for Engle TCS-10 turbo cam, fully balanced bottom end, dished top pistons, heavy duty oil pump and cover for filter/oil cooler. Compression, I'm not exactly sure about, but it's a little less than stock. Say 7.5:1.

Sounds like a fun engine! Gonna take a good bit of boost and rpm to make your HP goals I'd say though. Stock ports, valve, springs, etc. too? Stock crank? TCS10 is like a W110 on the intakes and W100 exhaust profile, should rip pretty good.

I really don't see the use in complicating things with 2 turbos on these pancake engines. One will do the job for 99% of our applications, and even 2 won't give you the bottom end response of a belt driven supercharger. The header(s) would need to pair opposing vs. neighboring cylinders to make it worth doing for any real performance gains on a twin install. Compounding like Clonebug suggested has a better chance of bottom end grunt with top end fun. Both are just more trouble than they're worth in my opinion, especially for a "driver".