SOLD - 1600 TURBO + oval + downunder

[madmike]

well that how it goes sometimes, Do keep in touch Pete My Friend

[rubenski]

Wow... sad.

Keep us updated about what's next!

[doc]

Don't be a stranger.

doc

[Chip Birks]

Best of luck with your next adventure

[kangaboy]

Best of luck dude! Post up whatever you get next so we can follow your project...whatever forum it may be built on

[panel]

Loved reading your thread updates all the time dude.....let us know your next ride!

[woodsbuggy1]

Pete, sad to hear, hope everything else is going well. Take Care, we miss you!!!
Kenric

[petew]

Thought I'd fill you in on my 'buying a new ride' journey so far.

All I can say is the options are crippling. Originally I was thinking E36 BMW, but my local mechanic guru really talked me out of them. So I'm left looking at Datsuns/Nissans and Toyotas. I've got a pretty tight set of specs for them...
Around 60,000 miles on the clock
1970-95
RWD
Sporty (ie. you can easily put an decent motor/LSD in)
White or silver paint
No rust
Running motor

That's left things pretty specific, but it means no ridiculous projects. My wife has already had a heart attack about me looking at a Datsun 510 that needed a new motor and a manual/stick conversion. Which was a shame really because it's super straight and rust free even if a little ratty. Looked at a terrible Datsun 610. The doors had bondo that hadn't even been sanded back before being painted over and the roof had duct tape with paint over the top. YUCK! So the search continues. Probably looking at a TE72 corolla and another 610. Or I might buy an S13 or 180sx Sylvia. Got $$$ and it's burning a hole in my pocket.

[petew]

K, the new toy is home in the garage. Got a 68-69 Datsun 510. It's an auto, so it's getting a stick shift, LSD, more power (probably microsquirt) and suspension. Thing is super straight. Only one tiny bit of rust under the fuse box. I'll post a pic when I get a chance.

[buguy]

That's awesome! Your grandfathered in, so keep it coming. Love to see what your up to. VW or otherwise.

[petew]

Werl, here are some pics. Pls excuse the non-VW images.

datto1.jpg

datto2.jpg

datto6.jpg

Here's the interior. The autos are usually column shift, so this thing is rare. Might well be a JDM import.

datto4.jpg

datto5.jpg

The body is extraordinarily straight and rust free for such an old car. They usually go in the bottoms of the doors and rear quarters but this is pretty clean.

datto7.jpg

datto8.jpg

The only actually rust hole is under the fuse box... weird. Not too hard to get to so I'll patch that.

datto3.jpg

So, I'm gonna leave it ratty and probably even on stock wheels or similar. A sleeper like the beetle. These things are now worth good money over here, which is why I bought it. I can spend $4.5k on it and sell it for what I've spend tomorrow. In a year or two, it'll be worth even more. AND, miracle, my wife seems to like it too. She even called it, "cute" the other night. I'm having her checked for drugs.

[66brm]

Now slip in a 2276cc t1, t3/4,water to air intercooler and it'll be

[petew]

Spent the last week or so working on the datto trying to get it running. Finally did, last night.



Course today, I put fuel in the tank and hooked it all up. No dice. Should have pulled the tank. Should have cleaned it out. Should have known better...

[buguy]

At least you've heard it run now and can move forward!

[petew]

at 80 KPA and below (I use a sharp 90/92KPA row transition) you should have a large cruise area at at around 17:1,
This will drop your cruise CHT and improve economy significantly, you likely spend most of your time there.
Mine runs from 2600 RPM to redline, and from 90 KPA down.

30KPA is usually hard into fuel cut, its arguable if that row is better used higher up the map.

Do know that you can use two maps "stacked" to (almost) double your resolution.(works horizontally too)

You need to go to best power AFR by 100 KPA, usually 12.3:1 or thereabouts.
This will transition you into boost properly.

My NA setup "switches" rich hard at 92 KPA.

Note stock (factory) AFR at WOT was around 11:1 to provide plug cooling....

You can also "get some of this" with a MS2E/MS3 feature called "load/time enrichment", which GM and everyone else uses on anything boosted, starts off at target best power AFR and adds fuel over time if you stay in it simply so your plugs don't melt. I asked for that feature because aircooled engines truly need it, boosted or not, and the MS devs amazingly implemented it in days, as it really is a feature for ~any setup.

The timing map will need a bit or corresponding massage as you'll need 3-5 degrees more timing at 17:1, as the burn slows down, and less at 12.3:1.

Hi everyone, I'm back to my old tricks. I've got the Datto running with MS2 microsquirt and I'm trying to tune it properly. I keep thinking about everything you taught me way back Piledriver! I'm about to employ it on the datto.



Planning for boost a bit later on. Don't be surprised if I come back and ask a few dumb qus. Miss you guys.