1969 VW Beetle not getting spark

[jtcnb]

Hello,

I am new to the VW world and rather a novice when it comes to working on any engine.

Today my VW would start....but would idle roughly then quit....it would start again fine and then when at idle would sputter to a stop. Then after some investigation, it would not start at all.

I read and did the following test:

Using an Ohmmeter to test the coil

Remove all the wires taken off the terminals of the coil attach the positive and negative, red and black, wires of the meter to first the terminal 15 (positive) and 1 (negative) that are stamped on the coil.
A reading of at least 3 - 4.5 ohms, indicates a good coil.
A bad coil will show a higher reading then 3 - 4.5 ohms.
Place the red or black lead from the meter to the center of the coil (secondary post), and to either one of the terminals, 1 or 15 on the coil.
A reading of 9,500 - 10,000 Ohms, sometimes less, indicates a good coil.
A reading of 11,000 Ohms or more, or a reading of zero indicates a bad coil.

In the coil I am getting a primary reading of 4 ohms and a secondary reading of 8800 ohms

When I take the wire for the coil off the distributor cap and put it close to the ground on the distributor there is no spark.

When I take the distributor cap off and crank the engine, the points do appear to be opening and closing....there does not appear to be any spark at the points either.

Where should I go from here? Should I get a new coil, points and condenser and see how it goes from there

[ainokea]

From what you describe, it could be the condenser and or the points. If your meter can read dwell, hook the positive lead to the # 1 coil connection, the negative lead to an unpainted ground. Have a helper crank the engine. If the meter shows more than 50 or less than 45 degrees, you need to reset your points. if there's no reading, replace the points and condenser, using the meter to get the correct point gap. You should also try running a piece of fine sandpaper between the points contacts, in case they're just dirty. But, there may be other problems, like fuel system, carburetor, or even ignition switch & wiring. just don't give up.

Ainokea

[jtcnb]

Thank you Ainokea for your response.

As stated I have a 1969 1600cc engine.

My local parts store does not have any parts for my engine in stock.

I get confused when looking at these parts online....some state internal or external resistors.....resistors within the rotor etc.

Do you think the following parts would be the correct ones for me?

I have in my order a few that I am buying 2 of, just because it takes so long to get these in my area.

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[Marc]

"Kettering troubleshooting 101":
Disconnect the Term 1 wire from the coil, leaving only the power from the ignition switch hooked up to Term 15. Using a jumper wire between Term 1 and ground, see if you don't get a decent spark each time you disconnect it. (If not try another coil).
Next hook the Term 1 wire back up and see if you can get a good spark each time you open the points; also try rotating the engine so that the points are open and then bridge across them with your screwdriver tip. If the screwdriver makes better points than the points do, they need attention. If you get a good spark under these tests but not when the engine's cranking, and the voltage to the coil isn't being dragged down excessively while cranking, then the condenser is suspect.

[jtcnb]

"Kettering troubleshooting 101":
Disconnect the Term 1 wire from the coil, leaving only the power from the ignition switch hooked up to Term 15. Using a jumper wire between Term 1 and ground, see if you don't get a decent spark each time you disconnect it. (If not try another coil).
Next hook the Term 1 wire back up and see if you can get a good spark each time you open the points; also try rotating the engine so that the points are open and then bridge across them with your screwdriver tip. If the screwdriver makes better points than the points do, they need attention. If you get a good spark under these tests but not when the engine's cranking, and the voltage to the coil isn't being dragged down excessively while cranking, then the condenser is suspect.

I tried everything mentioned here.....as I do not have a filler gauge...I just eyeballed the points gap.

I am able to get it started now.....but will not idle.

Once the new parts come in at my auto parts store..... I will have a mechanic, install new coil...rotor...cap...points and condenser and also set the timing and see where that gets me.

on another note....... someone has stolen my snap on roof.....they either stole it from the rear seat where it was tucked in....or right off the buggy instelf when I was not around.....Buggers!....they say Karma is a Bitch.....I sure hope it is!!!!

[Marc]

...as I do not have a filler gauge...I just eyeballed the points gap...

A matchbook cover is typically around .015" thick

[ainokea]

Just curious, exactly what is a Snap On Roof? Retired from the VW repair business after 45 years, have been doing business with Snap On for all that time and don't know the, "Roof."

Ainokea

[jtcnb]

Just curious, exactly what is a Snap On Roof? Retired from the VW repair business after 45 years, have been doing business with Snap On for all that time and don't know the, "Roof."

Ainokea

Not a Brand Snap On.... lol

The front of the roof snaps onto the windshield frame, and the rear connects with turn and lock clips.

[ainokea]

Ok, I get it now, you were talking about the hold down clips and clamps for a vert roof.

Ainokea