Flywheel question

[mac2881994]

Hey all,

Just a quick question for everyone here. Is there such an animal as a non-oring 12v flywheel. I have a neighbors rail at the house now and the 6v flywheel needs replaced. It has an auto stick atarter on it now and that chewed the teeth half off of the flywheel. A new 12v flywheel and clutch were ordered but it wont seat fully on the non-oring crank. I will try and get a picture of the damage on the teeth. Maybe he can get by with a 6v starter instead. The 6v clutch still has plenty of meat left on it but a bigger 12v clutch would be a nice thing to have, just in case. I posted this in the off-road section also, but I think I may get more responses here.

[Marc]

The change to O-ring came in mid`66, before 12V became standard for the US market, so that's one item that was never made.
What you can do is carefully open up the I.D. of the outer lip of the O-ring 'wheel with a stone on a Dremel or air grinder until it's the diameter of a "gasket" 'wheel. Cut a circle from a piece of sheet steel (or a can lid) to drop into the hole and protect the mating surface in the event of a slip. Use a whetstone to dress off any raised edge you create on the I.D. of the thrust surface.
Once complete, it'll be effectively a 130-tooth flywheel which MUST use a gasket rather than an O-ring. Metal gasket adds ~.012" to crankshaft endplay, paper adds ~.008". You may find that with this combination even the three thickest endplay shims won't be enough, if that's the case don't have any qualms about using four thinner shims. Note that the I.D. is smaller on the shims made for O-ring cranks so they won't fit on a "gasket" crank - unless it's .040"-under

[mac2881994]

Thanks for the info Marc. Since he already has the parts on hand that is what we will do.

[mac2881994]

Just an update for anyone that is interested. We used a sanding disk on a high speed and removed the outer lip like Marc advised. Set the end play with a total of four shims after opening the indide dia. of them with the same sanding drum. Installed the engine yesterday, reset the valves and it fired up with no problems. He found out he needs a new carb. it is spewing around the throttle shaft on the pass side of the engine.

Thanks again Marc for the timely and useful info.

[Marc]

Normally you won't see fuel "spewing" along a throttle shaft unless the float bowl is overflowing (due to a leaking float valve or heavy float) - there shouldn't be any liquid there otherwise.
Worn throttle shaft bore/bushings will cause an induction leak that can disrupt the idle, varying in severity depending upon how the throttle plate comes to rest when it shuts, but that's pretty much the only symptom since the significance of the leak diminishes once you get off idle. If a carb's in good condition otherwise, there are places which specialize in rebushing the throttle shaft bore - the result is often better than a new counterfeit carb.

[mac2881994]

Ok. Thanks again.