Hello.
I have read many opinions on here about the different elements separately, but never together so I am hoping for some definitive advice.
The car is a '55.
I want to fit a later box using the type 2 nosecone method. Which is the best box for me to use here considering I will be putting in a 1600cc twin-port that will have a bit of work done to it?
Obviously this will change me to 4 stud. To get back to wide 5 I have some type 3 backplates. Will these bolt straight up? what else will I need? Driveshafts? etc.....
Sorry if this is going over very old ground.
Martin
OVAL - LATE BOX - TYPE 3 DRUMS
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Marc
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Re: OVAL - LATE BOX - TYPE 3 DRUMS
The standard answers based upon available US-market components may not cover your situation all that well, so it's worth rehashing.
A late (late `72 or newer) box with the stronger 3.78:1 First gear would be wise. I'm not certain what codeletter you should be looking for on that side of the pond, everything we've gotten in the US since `69 has been "IRS" (4-joint) and most `73-up boxes only have a single sideplate so they can't be converted to swingaxle - but a late swingaxle 'Ghia box would probably be at the top of the list if you have a strong engine capable of pulling the taller gears. Next I'd choose any trans with the stronger First (and 3.875:1 R&P unless the rear tires are quite tall), including a double-sideplate IRS box - that could be converted to swingaxle using any 8-bolt differential carrier and (preferably O-ring style) swingaxle sideplates.
The 211 nosecone is intended for use on `61-early`72 transmissions with the early mainshaft bearing and may require some modification to work on a later trans without fouling the ball cage of the bearing - don't forget to check that. Also, you MUST have the `60-`67 Bus hockeystick if you use the 211 nosecone.
Type III brakes will bolt right up; the only potential issue will be e-brake cable length if you use long axle tubes in order to run long, long-spline axles which accept unmodified III drums. An option would be to stay with short tubes/short, short-spline axles and cut the III drum snouts down to fit (on a lathe, the cut must be true).
You could also use long tubes and long, short-spline axles as found on non-disk equipped `67 Beetles if you wished to retain the skinny rear shoes, but the e-brake cable length issue would still be there and you'd get no increased stopping power for the trouble.
Note that you'll need longer hardlines to the rear wheel cylinders if you go with long axle tubes.
Long axle tubes increase the rear track by ~3/4" per side and Type III drums add around ¼" per side, so if your rear fender clearance is tight now you may find that you need different rims.
A late (late `72 or newer) box with the stronger 3.78:1 First gear would be wise. I'm not certain what codeletter you should be looking for on that side of the pond, everything we've gotten in the US since `69 has been "IRS" (4-joint) and most `73-up boxes only have a single sideplate so they can't be converted to swingaxle - but a late swingaxle 'Ghia box would probably be at the top of the list if you have a strong engine capable of pulling the taller gears. Next I'd choose any trans with the stronger First (and 3.875:1 R&P unless the rear tires are quite tall), including a double-sideplate IRS box - that could be converted to swingaxle using any 8-bolt differential carrier and (preferably O-ring style) swingaxle sideplates.
The 211 nosecone is intended for use on `61-early`72 transmissions with the early mainshaft bearing and may require some modification to work on a later trans without fouling the ball cage of the bearing - don't forget to check that. Also, you MUST have the `60-`67 Bus hockeystick if you use the 211 nosecone.
Type III brakes will bolt right up; the only potential issue will be e-brake cable length if you use long axle tubes in order to run long, long-spline axles which accept unmodified III drums. An option would be to stay with short tubes/short, short-spline axles and cut the III drum snouts down to fit (on a lathe, the cut must be true).
You could also use long tubes and long, short-spline axles as found on non-disk equipped `67 Beetles if you wished to retain the skinny rear shoes, but the e-brake cable length issue would still be there and you'd get no increased stopping power for the trouble.
Note that you'll need longer hardlines to the rear wheel cylinders if you go with long axle tubes.
Long axle tubes increase the rear track by ~3/4" per side and Type III drums add around ¼" per side, so if your rear fender clearance is tight now you may find that you need different rims.