Persistence mini oil leak from rear axle boot

[sagaboy]

I am having persistence mini oil leak from rear axle boot, just a few drops daily, I have tighten the clip holding the inner side of the boot but still leak. Then I notice that the rubber boot appears to be too taunt (when the car was not jacked-up) so, I loosen the holding clip on the outer side of the boot and PUSH it inwards as much as possible (almost half and inch) and tighten it. So far, today, no more oil leak.

Is there a certain measurement that we should mount the rubber boot so as not to stress or cause it to be too taunt/pulling it too far from the base point?

[Jim Ed]

Is that on a swing axle?

[sagaboy]

Is that on a swing axle?

No, not a swing axle.

Normally, when we replace the rubber boot, we simply remove the old ones and mount the new ones (at 80 deg angle), we don't stretch/pull or do anything to the boot--just place it in place and tighten the clamp, isn't it?

[Jim Ed]

Here ya go:

http://www.vw-resource.com/oil_leakage.html#boots

Note: It IS possible to get leakage of gear oil into the inner CV joint and dust boot, though this is very rare. There is a plastic cap and circlip that must be removed in order to pull off the gearbox flange. If the plastic cap is damaged, gear box oil will leak into the CV joint and the dust boot. The leak will be periodic as the CV joint fills and then releases the gear oil into the dust boot. To get this plastic cap out you have to pierce it and lever it out. See our article on CV Joints for more details.

Clean area and apply some Permatex bronze rtv sealant to the new seal before installation.

[Marc]

If you pronounce/spell "taut" with an N in it, you might be a redneck

If there's oil dripping from an axle boot on a NON swingaxle, the priority is to fix the leak at the source as Jim Ed suggests, and regrease the CV joint.

I suspect that it IS a swingaxle...the boot should be installed when the axle is at 90° to the trans sideplate in order to ensure that the inboard end is seated properly as the inner clamp is tightened. For most cars, the outer clamp can be snugged down at the same time but some prefer to wait until the car is settled back to normal ride height before reaching under to tighten it, especially if the rear suspension's been raised, in order to keep the boot from being pulled too taut.

[sagaboy]

I am having persistence mini oil leak from rear axle boot, just a few drops daily, I have tighten the clip holding the inner side of the boot but still leak. Then I notice that the rubber boot appears to be too taunt (when the car was not jacked-up) so, I loosen the holding clip on the outer side of the boot and PUSH it inwards as much as possible (almost half and inch) and tighten it. So far, today, no more oil leak.

Is there a certain measurement that we should mount the rubber boot so as not to stress or cause it to be too taunt/pulling it too far from the base point?

I finally found the reason for "persistence" axle boot oil leak... the last time it was changed "around 7/8 years ago" the rubber boot was harden due to heat from the engine...I think, anyway the rubber was harden and there was a crack beside the steel o-ring clip clamp that holds the end of the boot to the gearbox side of the axle--OK problem solved

I found out the reason "why" the rubber boot must be mounted at an 80deg angle because if it is mounted at 90deg and when the car is jacked up it will "stress and pull" the rubber boot whereas at 80deg it gives the rubber to stretch without tearing the stressing the joint.