http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x37 ... 160618.jpg (1973 standard)
Well i got to poking around, all rod ends are sloppy, ride height ball joint angle is high. I always figured it was lifted....
Does this look like that weld in adjusters that was popular in the late 70's??
Are they also used as "spacers" to push out the tires??
These welds arent the best either. And they didnt even bother to spray paint the finish. I havent determined rust quite yet.
Im getting nervous.. Needs a transmission and front end... Here we go.
Also, when the front is suspended, tires hanging, is there any bound pressure? Can i remove the ball joints without the thing blowing apart?
Or same thing, front suspended, can i remove the 4 main bolts and drop it without a bar suddenly spinning (aka becomming un sprung)??
Front end hack job?
-
- Posts: 17881
- Joined: Mon Nov 13, 2006 10:17 pm
Re: Front end hack job?
The front end can be removed by removing the tires and spacers, disconnecting the brake lines and the speedometer cable (left front), disconnect the steering shaft from the box as well as the horn wire then you should be able to remove the front beam.
There is no real preload on the torsion bars at full suspension hang (the pan is on jack stands or blocked up so the wheels are off the ground) and what little would be there is only held in tension by the shocks being at full extension which shouldn’t be that much. You could take off the shocks before removing the beam also to get a bit more weight off the beam. I would either have some help or a floor jack as the beam will be both fairly heavy, especially top heavy and want to roll forward with the steering box and it’s accouterments still attached; very awkward so be careful and keep your pinkies and ka-noggin out of the way.
The steering box, Pittman Arm, steering shock and tie-rods can be removed but then you have floppy brake components so I would have a tendency to either leave it in place or remove the brake drums, shoes, backing plates; e.g., everything or nothing.
http://www.mooreparts.com/store/product/1107/AC401102/
This is what an Avis adjuster for a king and link pin beam, for a ball-joint beam it looks similar.

A sway-a-way style of adjuster looks like as it is being installed in a beam.

This is what the area where the grub screw and lock nut would normally sit in a un-modified beam (this happens to be a ball-joint beam.
I hope this helps some.
Lee
There is no real preload on the torsion bars at full suspension hang (the pan is on jack stands or blocked up so the wheels are off the ground) and what little would be there is only held in tension by the shocks being at full extension which shouldn’t be that much. You could take off the shocks before removing the beam also to get a bit more weight off the beam. I would either have some help or a floor jack as the beam will be both fairly heavy, especially top heavy and want to roll forward with the steering box and it’s accouterments still attached; very awkward so be careful and keep your pinkies and ka-noggin out of the way.
The steering box, Pittman Arm, steering shock and tie-rods can be removed but then you have floppy brake components so I would have a tendency to either leave it in place or remove the brake drums, shoes, backing plates; e.g., everything or nothing.
http://www.mooreparts.com/store/product/1107/AC401102/
This is what an Avis adjuster for a king and link pin beam, for a ball-joint beam it looks similar.

A sway-a-way style of adjuster looks like as it is being installed in a beam.

This is what the area where the grub screw and lock nut would normally sit in a un-modified beam (this happens to be a ball-joint beam.
I hope this helps some.
Lee
- sideshow
- Posts: 3428
- Joined: Mon Oct 27, 2003 11:00 am
Re: Front end hack job?
That looks like a "not adjustable" front end, as in they decided how much to go and welded the centers in place.
Not a bad way of doing things, some say it is more bomb proof than adjusters, but I am far too indecisive to select a ride height once (or resist the urge to make a 1/4 inch adjustment).
When tires are off the ground, there should be little pre-load on the arms, no spring retainers are required to remove the trailing arms or spindles.
Not a bad way of doing things, some say it is more bomb proof than adjusters, but I am far too indecisive to select a ride height once (or resist the urge to make a 1/4 inch adjustment).
When tires are off the ground, there should be little pre-load on the arms, no spring retainers are required to remove the trailing arms or spindles.
Yeah some may call it overkill, but you can't have too much overkill.
- Marc
- Moderator
- Posts: 23741
- Joined: Thu May 23, 2002 12:01 am
Re: Front end hack job?
Nope, that's the Sway-a-Way type.Ol'fogasaurus wrote:...A sway-a-way style of adjuster looks like as it is being installed in a beam.
"AVIS"

"Sway-a-Way"

Old-school "Select-a-Drop" (horrid concept, poorly implemented - camber isn't controlled and only the upper torsion stack is unloaded, so the lower stack ends up carrying most of the weight. I call 'em "Select-a-Flop")

There's nothing wrong with a "cut-and-turned" front end where the center section is rotated slightly and welded back in, provided you don't get too ambitious with it. Around ¼" is conservative and safe; IMO you're pushing things at 3/8", about the furthest most folks go for a balljoint baja beam.
-
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Wed Sep 12, 2012 6:39 pm
Re: Front end hack job?
Thank you for all the awesome replys!!! I will relax a little then, just dont like trustings others welds hah!
Thank you again. I will be looking into stock junkyard.replacements.
Another question, im under them impression to lower or raise the rear end, you must re-index via the splined shaft (irs type)
How much work is it really? Can i just keep the the shoes together, drop shocks and do it?
Are these shafts under a preload?
Id really like to ride at stock height. It looks a little funky.
http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x37 ... 150656.jpg
http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x37 ... exybug.jpg
http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x37 ... 143736.jpg
Thank you again. I will be looking into stock junkyard.replacements.
Another question, im under them impression to lower or raise the rear end, you must re-index via the splined shaft (irs type)
How much work is it really? Can i just keep the the shoes together, drop shocks and do it?
Are these shafts under a preload?
Id really like to ride at stock height. It looks a little funky.
http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x37 ... 150656.jpg
http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x37 ... exybug.jpg
http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x37 ... 143736.jpg
-
- Posts: 17881
- Joined: Mon Nov 13, 2006 10:17 pm
Re: Front end hack job?
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... highlight=
Lowering
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... ht=preload
Raising (this is in the lowering also)
Lee
Lowering
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... ht=preload
Raising (this is in the lowering also)
Lee