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I want to build a type 1 swing axle drag race trans. I already have narrowed h/d race axles and recently grenaded a "pro street" trans do too over clutching.Built the car/ motor by myself. Running latter bars and coil overs. looking for 11s next year. heavy N/A car. maybe 50 passes a year I have the vw jig and a half dozen other trans tools and want to assemble it.

From what i have read on this forum here is a list of what i need. Then followed by a couple questions.

Obviously welded hubs and hardened keys.

White Rhino trans case with no gussets.

Full circle aluminum side covers with through bolt under transmission

h/d aluminum intermediate housing with some sort of steel thrust washer setup.

steel sleeve around pinion bearing in case

big tapered roller pinion bearing

3.78 main shaft

3.88 German r/p

ratio wanted 3.78 2.06 1.48 1.04

i already have the 3.88 r/p and gear stack from a single side cover type 1 trans

question time.

1.who machines the white rhino case for the pinion modification tapered bearing/ steel sleeve?

2.where can i buy the h/d aluminum intermediate housing ?

3. the adapter hub from 3.78 mainshaft to early 3rd and 4th or why would you do this modification?

4. spline or keyed 3rd and 4th

5. polishing and shot peening worth it?

6. spool or snap ring diff?

forgive me for the long winded post i know the data is out there but in bits and pieces

Please give technical data not a bunch of epinions.

1) I don't know if the aluminum cases has proven race worthy yet .. does anyone here know? You can't take it for granted that the higher aluminum content makes it a better case until it's proven itself problem-free.

Resleeving is a must for used cases, but not absolutely essential for new ones. But yes, steel sleeving from the beginning will give you a far more durable case to begin with. Sorry .. don't know who to send you to today. BTW, this bearing is standard, not a modification.

2) That's the tough one. See if you can source an Autocraft one. The Autocraft main case is also a good aluminum main case option.

3) I'd use 002-style gears and standard 002 hub over any modified parts .. since you're probably purchasing new gears anyhow.

4) Well .. you've already decided on the better option with the German 3.88 and 3.78 mainshaft. No funky keys, and if you follow #2 advice, no cone welds.

5) Shotpeening for certain is worth it. Champhering sharp edges is more important than polishing, but they go hand-in-hand. Don't bother with professional polishing.

6) Spool over funky "super" diffs any time. See the run-out thread on this page.

There may be some confusion on the "big tapered roller pinion bearing" mod. What you want is the thrust surface mod, not the taper roller bearing (in the intermediate housing). An additional roller bearing would rob a bit more horsepower if it's effectively preloaded, while the thrust surface will only come into play for about 1-2% of run time.

thank you pablo i eat up this info. after hours of looking at useless info you and some others come through with proper advise.

i believe there is confusion about the tapered roller bearing on my end. i am aware of the thrust bearing mod in the shift housing. was speaking of the late model big pinion bearing not the 4 bolt pinion bearing. from the pictures I've seen and the transmissions i have torn down at home it seems either or. does the rhino case accommodate either one?



so what i am looking for as far as the main case is a white rhino case no gussets trough bolt under diff steel sleeved and ready for the big pinion bearing!?

So long as good quality early bearings are still available, I don't think there's enough of an advantage to the extensive mod required to adapt the later pinion bearing. The larger 091 bearing will sometimes crack the forward bearing race in drag race use, while the early 113 style uses a proper thrust washer in this space. So it's a trade off. Some of the early 113 Brazilian bearings require a small surface grind to increase pre-load very slightly. I don't know if this is still true.