Shoptalkforums.com

What works for you? I tried the harbor freight one and it was too big and broke on me.

The Eastwood ones have reasonable reviews, sorry to hear about the HF ones.
I have a Northern Tool nearby, I actually need to get a few of these RSN to swap some fenders for my 914, probably this weekend.

They do not last long, even with the best of care.
They are only HSS.

Seems like a piloted grindstone would be a better way, and probably much cheaper.
Perhaps a small carbide endmill with pilot?

Hi

Were you using any cutting oil with them? I did front and rear aprons with 2 or 3 of them. I had better luck with larger diameter ones that were about 10mm.

Steve

I use a Dewalt titanium pilot drill bit. Been through several panels and still is sharp. This along with a few bursts of an air chisel gets em out without going through both panels.

HTP (usaweld.com) has a GREAT selection of coated and uncoated HSS and cobalt cutters in 8&10mm sizes, cheap too.

They also have a "spot mill" tool.

http://www.usaweld.com/Spot-Weld-Drill- ... -max2u.htm

These look like end mill bits, and really are meant for the spot mill, but the devious could likely use them.

Piledriver wrote:HTP (usaweld.com) has a GREAT selection of coated and uncoated HSS and cobalt cutters in 8&10mm sizes, cheap too.

They also have a "spot mill" tool.

http://www.usaweld.com/Spot-Weld-Drill- ... -max2u.htm

These look like end mill bits, and really are meant for the spot mill, but the devious could likely use them.

That is where I got my mig from. Quality stuff.

helowrench wrote:

Piledriver wrote:HTP (usaweld.com) has a GREAT selection of coated and uncoated HSS and cobalt cutters in 8&10mm sizes, cheap too.

They also have a "spot mill" tool.

http://www.usaweld.com/Spot-Weld-Drill- ... -max2u.htm

These look like end mill bits, and really are meant for the spot mill, but the devious could likely use them.

That is where I got my mig from. Quality stuff.

I looked really hard at the HTP MTS160, but it's missing any remote control capability, and to ME, that was a showstopper.

TIG w/o a pedal or current control is POSSIBLE, but is like feeling up your girlfreind while wearing mittens.
Not good...

Wire speed control on the spoolgun (on the handle) saves many trips back to the welder, allows you do dial it in in seconds in position.
I could add voltage control as well, but wire speed is far more critical.

I always use a regular old drill bit.

If you wack it good and hard with a sharp punch,
Right in the middle of the spot weld,
You can get it without the bit walking off to the side.

The spot-weld bits leave a large hole.
By the time you get it filled, it looks different than the OG spot welds.

Now, not everyone cares if the welds look right,
But to be able to not spend money,
And get better results, well...

Takes a bit of practice tho.
You have to hold your mouth right!

I'll probably use a cobalt drill bit on the "donor".

On the "recipient" I'd prefer to avoid 200 8mm through holes I have to fill.

Helo later suggested rotabroach bits, even Sears sells one flavor for a reasonable price.
Smallest cutter seems to be 3/8" OD though.

"You may not be able to beat stupid, but you can stun it for awhile with a 2x4."

Naw, its just waiting for you to get complacent and turn you back on it then.... Wham!

I do't think you can even slip up on it and/or slide by it. Stupid is a natural evener and knows no cultural or social status limitations. As I said before... stupid can break anything.

Lee

we do a lot of spot welding sometimes at work the best thing to cut them out with is called a roto-brotch you just take a center punch and indent the center of the spotweld ,the actual bit has a punch insert that pushes back into the bit you can buy them at mcmastercarr or granger might cary them. The good thing about these bits is that you dont have to drill completely through both pieces of metal to remove the weld so no hard to fill holes in light gauge metal Chris4747

I bought a $15 set at Northern Tool, seems to work OK with a drop of oil.

Newer vehicles with high strength steel sheetmetal might have problems, but these seem to work OK on old German steel.

Ive got a Matco Tools one but havent used it yet. Not that expensive though, i think around $20??

For the guys who use a center punch, i have a Matco spring loaded center punch that works wonders. No more trying to center punch with a chisel and hammer and takes me like 3 seconds.