what distributor do i need or would work best
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what distributor do i need or would work best
what distributor do i need with my dual solex 40-44 carbs? i dont think the vaccume advance one that was used with my stock solex 34pict will work.
- Jim Ed
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Re: what distributor do i need or would work best
I could be wrong but, I think I remember reading that the 009 distributor works best with dual carbs.AirCooled71super wrote:what distributor do i need with my dual solex 40-44 carbs? i dont think the vaccume advance one that was used with my stock solex 34pict will work.
Drop in a Pertronix while you're at it.
These links might help:
http://www.vw-resource.com/dual_carbs.html
http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resou ... rbs101.htm
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Re: what distributor do i need or would work best
What are the specs for the rest of your motor, and how do you plan to drive it? A daily driver isn't going to need the same parts as a baja, for example. The 009 might be a solution for you.
Stray
Stray
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Re: what distributor do i need or would work best
The stock one you have has vacuum and mechanical advance, the vacuum can will simply not be used.
It's may work better than most 009s, and the advance curve can be tweaked for better performance.
A 009 was something to sell. In most cases it was a waste of $$.
If you like the cleaner look and the 009 actually works properly (many don't) it's an option.
009s can have the advance curve adjusted as well.
If you do find a ported vacuum port (or add one) vacuum advance does NOT "hurt" performance in ANY way, quite the opposite.
There are arguments for hooking it to manifold vac, but that typically requires a mechanical valve to turn the vacuum off at idle.
(not always needed)
It's may work better than most 009s, and the advance curve can be tweaked for better performance.
A 009 was something to sell. In most cases it was a waste of $$.
If you like the cleaner look and the 009 actually works properly (many don't) it's an option.
009s can have the advance curve adjusted as well.
If you do find a ported vacuum port (or add one) vacuum advance does NOT "hurt" performance in ANY way, quite the opposite.
There are arguments for hooking it to manifold vac, but that typically requires a mechanical valve to turn the vacuum off at idle.
(not always needed)
Last edited by Piledriver on Thu Dec 08, 2011 11:22 am, edited 1 time in total.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
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Re: what distributor do i need or would work best
No matter what distributer you use, unless it is brand new, not a rebuild (as they aren't often checked), take it/them to an auto electric store (if you have access to one anyway) and have it/them checked out and have the advance properly and re-curved (new springs) to the type of driving you will be doing. Even out of the box new distributers can be bad so do yourself a favor and have things checked out. One less thing to track down when things are not working correctly once you get things running…or not.
Stock stuff is maybe 30+ years old now and stuff gets worn or tired and small, irritating, non-findable problems can be had.
Not all 009 distributers are equal, some are stamped, some are cast and some… well they shouldn’t be out there in the first place and the person selling them should be honest enough not to (assuming they are knowledgeable to have them in the first place) offer them for sale. I think it is the cast ones that are (usually) the best of the bunch.
Some carbs have vacuum ports and if you find the carbs or the manifold then use the vacuum advance distributor assuming it checks out OK. I have heard that some people like the dual port vacuum distributor leaving the one port open (plugged).
Some people still prefer to use points and condenser and do quite well with them. The electronic conversions are OK also as long as you are careful when you hook them up as if you do it backwards, well… another trip to the place where you bought the last one is going to be in order.
Also check the carb out to ensure that the cross shaft is not worn and needs to be re-bushed. Also the base gasket needs to be checked for air leaks. This causes a lot of distributor fussing when it is not the distributor’s fault… ergo a false trail is followed.
Lee
Stock stuff is maybe 30+ years old now and stuff gets worn or tired and small, irritating, non-findable problems can be had.
Not all 009 distributers are equal, some are stamped, some are cast and some… well they shouldn’t be out there in the first place and the person selling them should be honest enough not to (assuming they are knowledgeable to have them in the first place) offer them for sale. I think it is the cast ones that are (usually) the best of the bunch.
Some carbs have vacuum ports and if you find the carbs or the manifold then use the vacuum advance distributor assuming it checks out OK. I have heard that some people like the dual port vacuum distributor leaving the one port open (plugged).
Some people still prefer to use points and condenser and do quite well with them. The electronic conversions are OK also as long as you are careful when you hook them up as if you do it backwards, well… another trip to the place where you bought the last one is going to be in order.
Also check the carb out to ensure that the cross shaft is not worn and needs to be re-bushed. Also the base gasket needs to be checked for air leaks. This causes a lot of distributor fussing when it is not the distributor’s fault… ergo a false trail is followed.
Lee
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Re: what distributor do i need or would work best
The only "best" distributor is not having one.
Programmable, crank triggered COP or CNP ignition is unbeatable.
If you have a dual vac, leave the retard port OPEN, vented to air.
Otherwise it can fight the vac can to some extent.
Probably one of the best setups from a reliability and performance standpoint are the Hall effect units used on earlier Vanagons (with vac and mechanical advance)
There are electrically ~identical to the ones used in VW late Mk1 Golfs etc of the same era.
Use the matching coil /module with these.
They bolt in.
CB until recently sold a version, OEM VW from the LJet Mexibugs.
Use the correct lowz coil with it and it kicks, hard.
CB unfortunately seems to have discontinued them for their own line of billet bling.
Programmable, crank triggered COP or CNP ignition is unbeatable.
If you have a dual vac, leave the retard port OPEN, vented to air.
Otherwise it can fight the vac can to some extent.
Probably one of the best setups from a reliability and performance standpoint are the Hall effect units used on earlier Vanagons (with vac and mechanical advance)
There are electrically ~identical to the ones used in VW late Mk1 Golfs etc of the same era.
Use the matching coil /module with these.
They bolt in.
CB until recently sold a version, OEM VW from the LJet Mexibugs.
Use the correct lowz coil with it and it kicks, hard.
CB unfortunately seems to have discontinued them for their own line of billet bling.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
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Re: what distributor do i need or would work best
the rest of my engine is a stock crank with 88mm thick wall pistons, 044 40x35.5 ported and polished heads, engle 110 cam, lightened flywheel and 1:25 ratio rockers. and my beetle is used every other day just to drive around town and back and fowarth to my university, about 300 miles a week only if the weather is good. seems like the 009 would be best from what everyone on the fourm is saying.
- Piledriver
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Re: what distributor do i need or would work best
It's your money.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
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- Joined: Fri Nov 25, 2011 5:28 pm
Re: what distributor do i need or would work best
solex 40/44's as in kadrons?
you need a vac port and to run an 034 SVDA, they are so much smoother and get better MPG with this distributor check out this thread
http://www.volkszone.com/VZi/showthread ... ng+kadrons
and check out this site
http://www.shop.kaddieshack.com/
luke
you need a vac port and to run an 034 SVDA, they are so much smoother and get better MPG with this distributor check out this thread
http://www.volkszone.com/VZi/showthread ... ng+kadrons
and check out this site
http://www.shop.kaddieshack.com/
luke
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Re: what distributor do i need or would work best
I made 4 ported vacuum holes in a set of Italian IDFs.
It was well worth it.
It was well worth it.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
- Marc
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Re: what distributor do i need or would work best
If you modify the carburetor as described to use the 0 231 170 034 SVDA carb, it should work just as well with the original 1971 0 231 167 049, or other DVDA - simply leave the "retard" side of the vacuum canister disconnected and set the initial timing to ~7.5°BTDC rather than 5°ATDC.
Note that while the SVDA and DVDA distributors will both function as centrifugal-only with their vacuum canisters inoperable, their total advance isn't in until ~3800RPM. In contrast, the advance of the 0 231 178 009 is "all-in" by ~2500RPM - in most cases, around 32° total at 2500+ works best with the 009. An SVDA or DVDA being used in centrifugal-only mode needs to have the initial timing bumped up a few degrees to function as well...this arrangement will work well enough to keep you on the road while waiting for a better setup, but I wouldn't encourage it as a permanent solution.
Note that while the SVDA and DVDA distributors will both function as centrifugal-only with their vacuum canisters inoperable, their total advance isn't in until ~3800RPM. In contrast, the advance of the 0 231 178 009 is "all-in" by ~2500RPM - in most cases, around 32° total at 2500+ works best with the 009. An SVDA or DVDA being used in centrifugal-only mode needs to have the initial timing bumped up a few degrees to function as well...this arrangement will work well enough to keep you on the road while waiting for a better setup, but I wouldn't encourage it as a permanent solution.
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Re: what distributor do i need or would work best
Cb also offers the magnaspark II kit that is an adjustable distributor as well, or go all out and get the magnaspark digital and do everything yourself. But either one will be the last one you should have to look at buying. The digital is also a vacuum unit with the option of being able to get it fully tuned for dual carbs with unlimited settings, just need a laptop and some seat time. But totally worth the money if your into getting it running top notch.