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A little how to replace o-rings on a 1.7 type 4
Unlike type-1 you do not have to remove the Heads. The tubes slide out from under the rockers. If you can clean any dirt from under the engine and pushrod tubes. Drain the oil from the case. Something I did not do. Remove the valve cover and turn the engine until there is no pressure on one set of valves. I used a socket on the alternator. You can remove just one set of rockers at a time. Slide the pushrods out and set aside. Just remember to place them back in the same order. Note just slide the wire spring out of the way.
Using one of those cheep piston ring spreaders, insert into the pushrod tube and pull the tube out. You might need to wiggle it a little. I was suprised how easy they came out. you can now remove the old O-rings and replace the tube. Wipe a little oil to the oring and slide into place. I used a socket the same size to push the tube to seat. Wipe any dirt from the head and replace the pushrod tubes. Place the rocker shaft onto the studs. Make sure the pushrods are seated on the lifters. I had to use my finger under while I tightened the bolts. The valve clearance should be the same as before. Double check.
Dave

Great write up! Thanks. I was just thinking about doing those..

you needto really clean the shelf on the case below the pushrod tubes before starting, it is home to a lot of caked grime and grease and sand. also the spreading pliers are a cool trick, never did it that way, I just carefully grab super close to the base w/ a pair of channellocks just hard enough, then lever against the botttom of the case. pop she comes

I haven't tried this pliers method either (but will, next time). I have used them however, to pull wrist pins with good success ( I coated a pliers jaws with liquid dip insulation to increase friction.)
-John

fusername wrote:you needto really clean the shelf on the case below the pushrod tubes before starting, it is home to a lot of caked grime and grease and sand. also the spreading pliers are a cool trick, never did it that way, I just carefully grab super close to the base w/ a pair of channellocks just hard enough, then lever against the botttom of the case. pop she comes

I have a great pair of pliers I made just for this. I took a set of needle nose vice grips. I ground both sets of jaws smooth save for a pair of 2.5mm bumps one on each jaw right across from each other. In this way you can set the crush depth so there is no real tension on teh tube...but it locks a bump into each groove on the sides of the PR tubes. You can twist and pack outward..and they move right out without damaging the tubes. The $14 cost of the pliers was well orth having a permanet tool.
I had to buy the medium sized pair so they would go wide enough for the tubes. You can do this with the curved jaw ones as well...but they don't give you as much room to work. Ray

I use channel lock 410s, my favorite wrench bar none, does everything grabs everything, and since its a channel lock style, you can go out on the largest setting that will still grab the tubes and it makes ith arder to accidently squich em.

Well Ray, how about a picture?

I'll have to take one today or tommorrow. Ray