Finished putting the buggy back together for the 2010 season
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Re: Finished putting the buggy back together for the 2010 se
It's a fillet, it's actually larger than that now, up to a 10mm, it's relieved where the wheel studs sit, the brake disc has to sit on a seperate bell now though as otherwise you couldn't put the studs in from behind.
The issue is the locating spigot on the back for the brake bell is on the wrong side at the bottom
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Re: Finished putting the buggy back together for the 2010 se
Hubs sorted, bar a bit of relieving work to knock a bit more weight off them:
Bearing caps are quite large but they go through the centre of the wheel rather than relying on plastic centre caps (which usually go awol with a rock and then the centre fills with mud), tapered to help with faster/easier wheel changes.
Brake bells are finished too, helps give a sense of scale as they look massive in the above pictures, they're actually fairly small:
Bearing caps are quite large but they go through the centre of the wheel rather than relying on plastic centre caps (which usually go awol with a rock and then the centre fills with mud), tapered to help with faster/easier wheel changes.
Brake bells are finished too, helps give a sense of scale as they look massive in the above pictures, they're actually fairly small:
- CentralWAbaja
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Re: Finished putting the buggy back together for the 2010 se
Love the cool parts on this buggy. Been fun to watch it evolve
It is not Mickey Moused.....It's Desert Engineered!
- Leatherneck
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Re: Finished putting the buggy back together for the 2010 se
Does the front end flare out at the tierods or is that just the picture? Really a cool build to watch, wish I had your skillsPhillipM wrote:Been a long year what with some health and family issues, so not a lot has been done on the old girl, mainly tidying up all the little bits and pieces, reassembling everything after stripping it with the correct grease/washers/bolts, etc, rather than whatever had been to hand previously, tidied up the engine wiring, finished all the dashboard wiring and added a few extra bits for launch control settings, etc. All the front bulkheads are made up and we've changed to overhead pedals which required lifting the front cross and moving the steering shuttle valve, which then mean remaking the front bonnet too, so, in terms of bits, doesn't look like much change, but at least everything is together now so when the rest of the bits are bolted in, we can press 'Start' and pray...
New front bonnet, now hinged on a gas ram lifter, should make any repairs when we're miles away from service a lot easier:
New floor, bulkhead, pedals, etc
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Re: Finished putting the buggy back together for the 2010 se
Oh, Oh, you must have been tired when you put it together as the steering and pedals are on the wrong side. Is the engine in front?
Things do look pretty nice. I like the tilt forward front sheet metal. What is the tube off the front hoop for?
Lee
Things do look pretty nice. I like the tilt forward front sheet metal. What is the tube off the front hoop for?
Lee
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Re: Finished putting the buggy back together for the 2010 se
Yes, it flares out as soon it clears the tierods into an inch tube and a gusset up to the beam ends - stops the edges of the beam bending backwards if we whallop a big rock right on the corner - which we've done once or twice (sometimes the car in front will drag one out of the edge of the track into your path) - I don't think you can see it on there but right before the tie rod there a curved vertical gusset too(to follow the tie-rod arc), that links into the front bulkhead to prevent stress cracks in the corner there.Leatherneck wrote: Does the front end flare out at the tierods or is that just the picture? Really a cool build to watch, wish I had your skills
Fog - hold your screen up to a mirror and it's fine, must be the signal getting crossed over in the fibreoptics to that side of the pond
Do you mean the little tube that extends back toward the passenger?
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Re: Finished putting the buggy back together for the 2010 se
always fun when things get turned around like that.
Yes, that is the tube I was wondering about. Also the "Y" shaped pieces in front of the shock mounts. Are they for lights?
I also like your design for the tow/retrival hook. Triangulated like that should make it stronger for those non-straight ahead/angled "pull outs". I never thought about doing that before but then I do have a buggy bumper that, while probably not as strong, allows for a bit of angles tuggin'.
Yes, that is the tube I was wondering about. Also the "Y" shaped pieces in front of the shock mounts. Are they for lights?
I also like your design for the tow/retrival hook. Triangulated like that should make it stronger for those non-straight ahead/angled "pull outs". I never thought about doing that before but then I do have a buggy bumper that, while probably not as strong, allows for a bit of angles tuggin'.
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Re: Finished putting the buggy back together for the 2010 se
Yeah, if you fall off the edge down into something the marshalls tend to be rather, errr, enthusiastic with their snatch recoveries...there is an aluminium front bumper/bar that goes in front of it they can tug on too but it's more as a bolt on crash structure really, to take the impact so nothing important behind it bends!
The little tube is just a mount for the dashboard and a grab handle at that side - you can't actually reach the grab handle and the co-driver has hand controls to hang onto anyway, but it's one of those old hangups in the regulations from when all the competing cars were landrovers, etc, so that the codrivers arms didn't fall out of the window opening in a crash. So we have to have it even though the car has doors and your hands are far lower than the chassis sides. Don't you love rule-makers?
The curved bits in front of the shock towers take the mudguards (regulated to cover 2/3rds of the wheel, plus rear flaps, looks ugly as sin but regs are regs) - it would have been lighter to take the fitting off the damper mounts, but with a separate tube if they get caught on a branch/tree/concrete post then at least it twists off there instead of affecting the working parts - they do have aluminium tubes to shear off in a big hit but depending on the angle they don't always work.
The little tube is just a mount for the dashboard and a grab handle at that side - you can't actually reach the grab handle and the co-driver has hand controls to hang onto anyway, but it's one of those old hangups in the regulations from when all the competing cars were landrovers, etc, so that the codrivers arms didn't fall out of the window opening in a crash. So we have to have it even though the car has doors and your hands are far lower than the chassis sides. Don't you love rule-makers?
The curved bits in front of the shock towers take the mudguards (regulated to cover 2/3rds of the wheel, plus rear flaps, looks ugly as sin but regs are regs) - it would have been lighter to take the fitting off the damper mounts, but with a separate tube if they get caught on a branch/tree/concrete post then at least it twists off there instead of affecting the working parts - they do have aluminium tubes to shear off in a big hit but depending on the angle they don't always work.
- dustymojave
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Re: Finished putting the buggy back together for the 2010 se
I approve of that approach to bumpers Phillip. I encounter so many who seem to think a bumper should be a battering ram, rather than something to absorb hits and take damage instead of the working parts of the car taking it. I consider a bumper to be a relatively sacrificial/disposable item. In a rear-engined offroad race car, the rear bumper should be far more substantial than the front. That way it will protect the engine from damage due to hard hits, but doesn't provide an overly aggressive driver with something to beat the hell out of the cars in front. We Tech Inspectors tend to frown on forward facing RPG mounts.PhillipM wrote:...there is an aluminium front bumper/bar that goes in front of it they can tug on too but it's more as a bolt on crash structure really, to take the impact so nothing important behind it bends!...
Richard
Lake LA, Mojave Desert, SoCal
Speed Kills! but then...So does OLD AGE!!
Tech Inspection: SCCA / SCORE / HDRA / ARVRA / A.R.T.S. OffRoad Race Tech - MDR, MORE, Glen Helen BajaCup
Retired Fabricator
'58 Baja with 955K Miles and counting
Lake LA, Mojave Desert, SoCal
Speed Kills! but then...So does OLD AGE!!
Tech Inspection: SCCA / SCORE / HDRA / ARVRA / A.R.T.S. OffRoad Race Tech - MDR, MORE, Glen Helen BajaCup
Retired Fabricator
'58 Baja with 955K Miles and counting
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Re: Finished putting the buggy back together for the 2010 se
Yeah, there's a few over here that build cars like that, then wonder why they hurt themselves when they roll or hit something.
The side tree bars/nerf rails are aluminium with shear bolts for the same reason, for the sake of a couple of quid of material I'd rather they bend or shear off than start twisting/damaging the frame and other bits.
Lets face it, mistakes happen, better to bend a disposable bit that bolts on - sometimes you can't help but give things a bit of a brush if you catch someone and need to pass where it's tight.
The side tree bars/nerf rails are aluminium with shear bolts for the same reason, for the sake of a couple of quid of material I'd rather they bend or shear off than start twisting/damaging the frame and other bits.
Lets face it, mistakes happen, better to bend a disposable bit that bolts on - sometimes you can't help but give things a bit of a brush if you catch someone and need to pass where it's tight.
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Re: Finished putting the buggy back together for the 2010 se
....annnnnd then we sat back, drank more coffee, decided the postage stamp sized front pads might struggle with the heat with another 100bhp, and decided to swap to some old dynalite 4-pots we'd been given, broken, but nothing we can't fix
But they need bigger discs to suit the pad shape.
So...
Anyway, hub got anodised, fitted, and the new calipers mounted after fabricating a new bracket:
Engine loom got modified for a better main connector that has removable pins and is rated to work under 6ft of water:
Thousands of miles and plenty of trophies to it's name, but that abused old Peugeot 106 steering wheel is finally retiring from it's life of misery and pain (Ed's taking around the back and having it shot*).
Of course, that means an adaptor is required for the new one. The remains of my 306 got butchered for a column spline to use for spinning a new adaptor up in the lathe - thankfully it hasn't been disconnected to sell yet!
Lightening scallops courtesy of a Mr A.Grinder...
Due to having to TIG the old centre spline in it's all in steel, so no shiny anodised ally things today for you all. Terrible, I know - I'm sorry.
I think that's -5bhp for lack of anodising and -8bhp for not being able to say 'Billet Ally!' when talking about it.
(*KIDS! I'm joking, the wheel has gone to a home for retired steering wheels, it's getting leather food every day and frollicking in fields with other wheels, it's in a caring, happy place - and definately hasn't been violently butchered by an angle grinder wielding maniac requiring the steel spline out of the centre.)
A barn door appeared:
And the spars are being 3d printed at the moment:
Roughly what it should end up like when it gets made and mounted:
Didn't get outside to see what she looks like in the sun yet, but the final parts came back from the zinc platers this week, so things are finally going together with proper seals, bearings and greased up ready to go!
AS you can see, we managed to sell the old dynalites on after a refurb and put a few pennies extra in to fit a nice new set of Midilites with dust seals instead.
And started making some labels for the dash
But they need bigger discs to suit the pad shape.
So...
Anyway, hub got anodised, fitted, and the new calipers mounted after fabricating a new bracket:
Engine loom got modified for a better main connector that has removable pins and is rated to work under 6ft of water:
Thousands of miles and plenty of trophies to it's name, but that abused old Peugeot 106 steering wheel is finally retiring from it's life of misery and pain (Ed's taking around the back and having it shot*).
Of course, that means an adaptor is required for the new one. The remains of my 306 got butchered for a column spline to use for spinning a new adaptor up in the lathe - thankfully it hasn't been disconnected to sell yet!
Lightening scallops courtesy of a Mr A.Grinder...
Due to having to TIG the old centre spline in it's all in steel, so no shiny anodised ally things today for you all. Terrible, I know - I'm sorry.
I think that's -5bhp for lack of anodising and -8bhp for not being able to say 'Billet Ally!' when talking about it.
(*KIDS! I'm joking, the wheel has gone to a home for retired steering wheels, it's getting leather food every day and frollicking in fields with other wheels, it's in a caring, happy place - and definately hasn't been violently butchered by an angle grinder wielding maniac requiring the steel spline out of the centre.)
A barn door appeared:
And the spars are being 3d printed at the moment:
Roughly what it should end up like when it gets made and mounted:
Didn't get outside to see what she looks like in the sun yet, but the final parts came back from the zinc platers this week, so things are finally going together with proper seals, bearings and greased up ready to go!
AS you can see, we managed to sell the old dynalites on after a refurb and put a few pennies extra in to fit a nice new set of Midilites with dust seals instead.
And started making some labels for the dash
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Re: Finished putting the buggy back together for the 2010 season
No, the project isn't dead, it's just been a long time of tedious checking, rehecking and tweaking/mounting work, and I've had a lot of problems with family health issues/funerals and a few scares with heart issues myself, so it's been a much slower job than intended.
Anyway, this happened around Christmas...
https://www.youtube.com/embed/KHcZFQ_ILRo
....
No, I'm not sorry I did that to you
However a few days later it went at last: https://youtu.be/ku7sU_e-8mA
Have to excuse the sound, there was a slight air leak on a gasket and that's all the phone mic seems to have recorded.
Anyway, this happened around Christmas...
https://www.youtube.com/embed/KHcZFQ_ILRo
....
No, I'm not sorry I did that to you
However a few days later it went at last: https://youtu.be/ku7sU_e-8mA
Have to excuse the sound, there was a slight air leak on a gasket and that's all the phone mic seems to have recorded.
- CentralWAbaja
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Re: Finished putting the buggy back together for the 2010 season
HAHA the dog huffing the exhaust is awesome!!!
It is not Mickey Moused.....It's Desert Engineered!
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Re: Finished putting the buggy back together for the 2010 season
Yeah, he has a screw loose to be honest, he attacks car's tyres when they drive past....
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Re: Finished putting the buggy back together for the 2010 season
Anyway, a day later, this happened:
Must have slipped.
Old 5-piece rivetted and glued roofskin is now a lighter welded single piece effort. Much cursing and hammering was heard in the process. Sounded easier than it was, ripples all over the place to start with.
Engine went back together:
Some of the bodywork got finished off:
Had a play around in Paint to see what colour scheme to go with, got this far, open to suggestions though:
And started making louvers.....may have gone overkill...
Skidpan's - 6mm thick aluminium plate for the transmission - goes forward under the beam tube/seats and is overlapped by the main floor for a while so it's even thicker there. The transmission plate also overlaps the engine plate when that is fitted so there's no leading edges anywhere to dig in. Front of the floor and the front beam get their own section that curls upwards to stop it digging in on nose-heavy landings and also acts a front splitter for high speed stuff.
Have to excuse the rear edge of the floor, mate lent a helping hand an thought a hammer was a more appropriate bending too than the folder in the corner.....I'm all for hammers but not the way he uses one
Couldn't afford a CAT scan to check the discs for flaws, so went for the cheaper alternative:
He said they were a bit Ruff.
Going back in time a little - rerouted some piping before Christmas, along with some other changes the eagle eyed might notice - basically the hoses were a little close to hot spots for comfort, even with heat shielding, mainly because they'd been made few mm long by the supplier but with such short, wide hoses getting rid of the extra length meant routing at quite an angle into some of the fittings, and it also meant the dry sump belt was difficult to access - not something you want in the field!
Anyway, chances are the hoses would have been fine but after this amount of time an oil fire is not the way you wish to discover that they weren't...
Anyway, that knocked on to shifting a few bits and pieces (exhaust relocated by removing the right rear frame support tube, and shuffling of the oil filter mainly - although then I decided I didn't like it anyway, so then it got moved again to completely under the engine now there's room due to the exhaust shift) and then it meant remaking panels that were already done:
Welded up awaiting the top rolling over the tube:
This was probably posted after finding some decent whisky in the back of a cupboard:
And some more louverly* new vents.
*See what I did there, eh? Terrible wasn't it? I make no apologies for that joke. You've read it now. Tough.
edit: Picture links fixed, click for full size.
Must have slipped.
Old 5-piece rivetted and glued roofskin is now a lighter welded single piece effort. Much cursing and hammering was heard in the process. Sounded easier than it was, ripples all over the place to start with.
Engine went back together:
Some of the bodywork got finished off:
Had a play around in Paint to see what colour scheme to go with, got this far, open to suggestions though:
And started making louvers.....may have gone overkill...
Skidpan's - 6mm thick aluminium plate for the transmission - goes forward under the beam tube/seats and is overlapped by the main floor for a while so it's even thicker there. The transmission plate also overlaps the engine plate when that is fitted so there's no leading edges anywhere to dig in. Front of the floor and the front beam get their own section that curls upwards to stop it digging in on nose-heavy landings and also acts a front splitter for high speed stuff.
Have to excuse the rear edge of the floor, mate lent a helping hand an thought a hammer was a more appropriate bending too than the folder in the corner.....I'm all for hammers but not the way he uses one
Couldn't afford a CAT scan to check the discs for flaws, so went for the cheaper alternative:
He said they were a bit Ruff.
Going back in time a little - rerouted some piping before Christmas, along with some other changes the eagle eyed might notice - basically the hoses were a little close to hot spots for comfort, even with heat shielding, mainly because they'd been made few mm long by the supplier but with such short, wide hoses getting rid of the extra length meant routing at quite an angle into some of the fittings, and it also meant the dry sump belt was difficult to access - not something you want in the field!
Anyway, chances are the hoses would have been fine but after this amount of time an oil fire is not the way you wish to discover that they weren't...
Anyway, that knocked on to shifting a few bits and pieces (exhaust relocated by removing the right rear frame support tube, and shuffling of the oil filter mainly - although then I decided I didn't like it anyway, so then it got moved again to completely under the engine now there's room due to the exhaust shift) and then it meant remaking panels that were already done:
Welded up awaiting the top rolling over the tube:
This was probably posted after finding some decent whisky in the back of a cupboard:
Today we see the lesser spotted Hermit Filter in it's natural location. Generally shy and lacking in mobility, this little fella finds a nearby engine and ducks underneath, using the sump for protection. Upon finding this safe location, he quickly hooks into the oil lines and then filter feeds on debris and dirt in the oil, providing a beautiful symbiotic relationship that helps the engine live longer.
That cute blue exterior hides some defences though - attempting to remove a Hermit Filter - even one that has only lightly screwed itself to it's new perch - often requires the services of Popeye (or alternatively the Left Hand of God, if he's around at the time) and unfortunately the trouble doesn't stop there.
After freeing the grip of the tenacious Hermit Filter, it borrows a trick from the aquatic world and aims a stream of hot, black oil at your hands, eyes, the floor, the walls and, for some inexplicable reason, the cream living room carpet.
Even if you've removed it in the garage, 10 miles away from home.
It's an incredible defence mechanism really.
And some more louverly* new vents.
*See what I did there, eh? Terrible wasn't it? I make no apologies for that joke. You've read it now. Tough.
edit: Picture links fixed, click for full size.
Last edited by PhillipM on Mon Jul 04, 2016 2:55 pm, edited 4 times in total.