air cleaner to body fresh air mount: differences
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btectonic
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Sun Jul 20, 2008 9:38 am
air cleaner to body fresh air mount: differences
Are the air cleaner to intake air boxes substantially different for the older oil bath vs paper filter plastic air cleaners? Will the oil bath snug up tight to the inlet where the plastic air cleaner would be?
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raygreenwood
- Posts: 11907
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
They both fit in pretty much the same location. I have converted all of my last few 411 and 412's to the plastic air cleaner from the oil bath with no problems. Why would you w ant to go to the oil bath from teh plastic one? the pleated paper filter is cleaner, has less emmisions issues and flows more air (though it makes little difference on a stock engine). Ray
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btectonic
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Sun Jul 20, 2008 9:38 am
I agree it would be a bit of a step backwards, it depends upon what I can get my hands on. If I can get an oil bath and snorkel quicker that's what'll go on, if even for the moment.
The motor was rebuilt under duress at a less than fantastic shop; it's a mystery motor, even to the builder apparently. He bumped it to 1.8; I believe it's got stock 1.8 fuelie heads; he claims the CR is 7.6:1, needs to check his paperwork for the valve sizes and the cam part number.
He claimed he couldn't time it, the mark was jumping. I'm going to sort out the vacuum leak stuff, breather hose stuff, make sure the DJet is functioning, get a dizzy rebuilt, and so on. The car runs but it runs more like a worn out bus than a fresh 1.8.
The mechanic vented the heads to the charcoal can, ran a bus breather box to the air cleaner, and various other freestyle vacuum routing manuevers. The throttle butterfly shaft is very worn, a 2 ltr bus TB, as you suggested, is on its way to me. Once the parts arrive here and that's to baseline I'll get with the other stuff. Pro'ly throttle switch calibration, idle mixture, advance can, timing first, then dive in deeper if that doesn't do it.
The motor was rebuilt under duress at a less than fantastic shop; it's a mystery motor, even to the builder apparently. He bumped it to 1.8; I believe it's got stock 1.8 fuelie heads; he claims the CR is 7.6:1, needs to check his paperwork for the valve sizes and the cam part number.
He claimed he couldn't time it, the mark was jumping. I'm going to sort out the vacuum leak stuff, breather hose stuff, make sure the DJet is functioning, get a dizzy rebuilt, and so on. The car runs but it runs more like a worn out bus than a fresh 1.8.
The mechanic vented the heads to the charcoal can, ran a bus breather box to the air cleaner, and various other freestyle vacuum routing manuevers. The throttle butterfly shaft is very worn, a 2 ltr bus TB, as you suggested, is on its way to me. Once the parts arrive here and that's to baseline I'll get with the other stuff. Pro'ly throttle switch calibration, idle mixture, advance can, timing first, then dive in deeper if that doesn't do it.
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raygreenwood
- Posts: 11907
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
Yep...it will be an issue with 7.6:1 compression. D-jet does not tune well under about 8.0:1. It will always "act" like its anemic and like it has a vacuum leak.
One of the main things to check (other than vacuum leaks) is the condituion of the distributor itself. If you disconnect the vacuum line from the advance unit and plug it....and the timing stops jumping around....it is indeed a vacuum leak causing the advance unit to add adavnce in little "bumps"....causing the timing to oscillate. If it does not stop the oscillation, it is teh springs on teh adavnce weights that need tightening a little by squeezing the loops where they connect to the pins tigher with a pair of long nose pliers. That...and cleaning the breaker plates and greasing them...and squeezing that little "tang" that is opposite the spring and ball on the breaker plate...so that it has only .003" gap between the tang and the breaker plate. It can also be one or more worn distributor cam lobes. getting rid of the points and putting in a pertronix module will solve that. Ray
One of the main things to check (other than vacuum leaks) is the condituion of the distributor itself. If you disconnect the vacuum line from the advance unit and plug it....and the timing stops jumping around....it is indeed a vacuum leak causing the advance unit to add adavnce in little "bumps"....causing the timing to oscillate. If it does not stop the oscillation, it is teh springs on teh adavnce weights that need tightening a little by squeezing the loops where they connect to the pins tigher with a pair of long nose pliers. That...and cleaning the breaker plates and greasing them...and squeezing that little "tang" that is opposite the spring and ball on the breaker plate...so that it has only .003" gap between the tang and the breaker plate. It can also be one or more worn distributor cam lobes. getting rid of the points and putting in a pertronix module will solve that. Ray