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This is what I am going to be running with my Kennedy 1700 P/P. Reason being I was slipping in 2nd and 3rd. It will see some street use. Is it going to be a go-no go type of clutch or will there be at least some give to it?

What combo are you guys running behind what engine?

I had the more aggressive 4-puck and a Stage 3 (2600?) plate in my last car. The chatter wasn't anything that I couldn't smooth out with throttle and clutch feathering. It really only saw the street for an occasional hot lap around the block after a repair though.

I will have a 6-puck and a Stage 4 plate behind my Honda.

FWIW, KEP doesn't recommend "puck" clutches for street use because of harsh engagement.

I'm not real familiar with that type of disc, but the four puck disk is either ingaged or not. While it can be done; slipping, feathering, finessing,or any of the many other things you (call it) do with a normal clutch should not be done with a four puck. It will be very hard (as in score) on the flywheel and or pressure plate (cover).

I run one on the sand where it is good to have. Not a street clutch. Good for racing too.

Leather, have you had your flywheel miked to make sure that the distance between the cover's mounting surface and the surface where the disc rides is within tolerance? Just checking (no pun intended).

kennedy 1700 and a stock disc on my 1915..

no hydraulic clutch either, i need to order a spare clutch cable just in case....

Ol'fogasaurus wrote:Leather, have you had your flywheel miked to make sure that the distance between the cover's mounting surface and the surface where the disc rides is within tolerance? Just checking (no pun intended).

What is the best way to do this and what numbers am I looking for? Thanks!

Hay Leather , That is what i use on my car. It has enough give it is like a crush. I had 4 puck and it was more go no go. the 6 puck was very nice. It also holds my 17 lb boost on street. I have never felt slip on it. As long as it last, I don't think I will ever go back to 4 puck.

None of my reference material has that information. I know you put a straight edge along the upper surface then measure down to the clutch surface. Not all machinists remember to face both surfaces together and from what I understand it is critical for full clutch pressure. If the clutch surface is too far away, the pressure plate does not exert full force when the clutch is released.

I will keep looking.

I think he is fine. He just has a turbo on it. That will spin a stock disk.

The magic # is 21MM or .826" from mount face to clutch face. Don't know what the factory tolerance is but I maintain + or - .002".

I am using a 6puck KEP disc, and a KEP stage 3 pressure plate. hooked to a 2.2L subie, dont know how it does, but i will let you know soon!

Thanks Dan. That is what I wanted. Like I said, I have heard of clutch problems several times that turned out to be the flywheel was surfaced and the clutch cover surface wasn't adjusted accordingly.

RAIL9222 wrote:The magic # is 21MM or .826" from mount face to clutch face. Don't know what the factory tolerance is but I maintain + or - .002".

I should add that this is for a 200mm flywheel. The 228mm is different but I don't know it off the top of my head.