002 Softmout Sharpbuilt NO 10 degree

Offroad VW based vehicles have problems/insights all their own. Not to mention the knowledge gained in VW durability.
alsehendo
Posts: 1004
Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2001 12:01 am

002 Softmout Sharpbuilt NO 10 degree

Post by alsehendo »

Baha Wes ran this sharpbuilt setup in his Baha bug.
Bob Ingrams ran this sharpbuilt setup also in his Thing.
http://www.sharpbuilt.com.au/dunebug.htm
Combi IRS gearbox into a Beetle chassis brackets and straps soft mount
Bellow is picture of it done in Baha Wes's bug, I added white comment:

Image

I think they did this without a 10 degree saying:
The shifter rod then steps back down into the tunnel via 2 standard
shifter couplings welded on top of each other.

I have 3 questions can you please help:

1. What do you guys think about this sharbuilt method, could I use it in my Thing with a late moddle 002. Another words is welding the shift couplings on top of each other a good solution.

2. Would I have to modify the original Thing axles to accommodate the wider 002 tranny, if so how and would lifting the rear keep me from having to modify them?

3. Would I have to cut a hole in the bottom of the body or use a lift kit to get it away from the taller tranny?
User avatar
MNAirHead
Posts: 9570
Joined: Mon Sep 08, 2003 6:12 am

Post by MNAirHead »

Opinion.. I like keeping my tranny inputs at the horizontal engineered level.. lift kits or notching are the ways...

I've had the 10degree tilter.. it wasn't as good.

Have used the stacked version.. I'd rather do this than rig the tranny tilt...

I have one of the stackers if you're intersted.. we used it to mock for our current project.. PM me if interested.

Still preferring the entire shifter above the tunnel for fine tuning.
dirtbugger
Posts: 10
Joined: Tue Nov 07, 2006 2:43 pm

Post by dirtbugger »

Alsehendo, I've been riding with the proprietor of sharpbuilt (Mike) for 8 years or so now and I've never know him to have a problem with his double Decker system. About 4 years back, I did the same when I went to a bus box and again, I've not had a problem.

I know of only one that failed and that was simply a broken weld, the join in that case was done with brazing rod rather than a mig.

DB
alsehendo
Posts: 1004
Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2001 12:01 am

Post by alsehendo »

dirtbugger said:
I've been riding with the proprietor of sharpbuilt (Mike) for 8 years
When you get one of these from Sharpbuilt, is all you have to do is weld the two stock couplings together or is thier more fab work or parts to buy.

Another reply mentioned stackers--what are these?

What is notching?
User avatar
RyanB
Posts: 1466
Joined: Wed Feb 26, 2003 12:01 am

Post by RyanB »

It looks like that doesnt go into the tunnel. Looks to be like a 3" lift kit for the body and it goes through that. You planning on putting a lift kit or cutting into the body to accomodate it?
User avatar
Leatherneck
Moderator
Posts: 17104
Joined: Sat Jul 01, 2006 6:47 pm

Re: 002 Softmout Sharpbuilt NO 10 degree

Post by Leatherneck »

alsehendo wrote:
I have 3 questions can you please help:

1. What do you guys think about this sharbuilt method, could I use it in my Thing with a late moddle 002. Another words is welding the shift couplings on top of each other a good solution.
It may work well for some, my opinion and it is only that is to keep it as simple as possible. Myself I would run it above the tunnel and keep all the stock geometry to it.
alsehendo wrote:2. Would I have to modify the original Thing axles to accommodate the wider 002 tranny, if so how and would lifting the rear keep me from having to modify them?

What rear arms are you using? Lifting is only temperary when you hit a bump or land the rear end goes down, so the only way is to match the axles to the rear arms and tranny.
alsehendo wrote:3. Would I have to cut a hole in the bottom of the body or use a lift kit to get it away from the taller tranny?
I am running a little slow on this question, could you clarify for me?

By the way not sure I remember your name in here so welcome or welcome back which ever it is. If you get a chance introduce yourself and your Baja you are working on.
User avatar
bajaherbie
Posts: 9967
Joined: Sat Jul 15, 2006 7:07 pm

Post by bajaherbie »

i'm sure it works but i think its cheesy. i saw it it last year but i ran my shift rod on top of the tunnel. if you do it that way be sure and pull the rubber things out or they're going to melt when you weld it.



when tim said stackers he meant two stock couplers, one on top of the other...

i don't think he was talking about Vlasic pickles "stackers". :lol:
Of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt.
User avatar
MNAirHead
Posts: 9570
Joined: Mon Sep 08, 2003 6:12 am

Post by MNAirHead »

Herb.. thanks for clarifying.
alsehendo
Posts: 1004
Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2001 12:01 am

Post by alsehendo »

Introduction:
I am not building a baha per say, I am putting a 002 in my Thing. The Thing tranny is nearly shot and I have a Late 002 five rib, (AKA pyramid case), from a bus I junked.

I also want to lift it for bigger tires thus more clearance. The power will be a 2270 T4 or a 2276 T1 MS controlled. It won't be raced but will see off road use in the UP of MI. I tried all the Thing forums but only got, answers from those that haven't actuary done it.

I am posting here because I believe you all have done this more than anyone and it was a good idea for I have gotten lots of good info just in the few hours since I posted this.

I have come up with these options and am researching:
Berg nose cone method--I herd it very expensive
10 degree method Suspensions Unlimited Kit, called but got someone else--are they in buisness?
Hard mount above tunnel
Sharpbuilt softmount with these stackers
Piledriver's homade Kafer brase http://www.tunacan.net/t4/howto/kaferbr ... llshot.jpg
Looks to be like a 3" lift kit for the body and it goes through that. You planning on putting a lift kit or cutting into the body to accommodate it?

That is question 3, if I don't use a body lift kit or make one will I have to cut the body to accommodate the 002 in my Thing with all of the methods listed above.
the only way is to match the axles to the rear arms and tranny
Some have said with a 002 put in a Thing axle length is an issue others say not. I know the flange and CVs are not an issue. I am not clear on this isue yet.

Another thing tha might be confusing me are the answers to these 3 questions different depending on whitch of the 4 methods I listed is used?
Last edited by alsehendo on Mon Dec 18, 2006 4:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
Big Dave
Posts: 3208
Joined: Tue May 17, 2005 4:31 pm

Post by Big Dave »

I went with the stacked couplers in my car. It works fine, and you get to keep the e-brake because you aren't running the shift rod above the tunnel. Everyone seems to forget to point this out. A street legal car has to have a parking brake.
User avatar
takotruckin
Posts: 3774
Joined: Tue Jul 18, 2006 6:40 pm

Post by takotruckin »

Big Dave wrote: A street legal car has to have a parking brake.
only if you get caught!

dave, did you set it up? if so, was there any trouble in setting up the shifter? i tried using the adapter, but after messing with it for two hours, i gave up and welded a box onto the tunnel.
User avatar
Big Dave
Posts: 3208
Joined: Tue May 17, 2005 4:31 pm

Post by Big Dave »

I did it all myself. At first second gear wouldn't engage, so I adjusted the shifter around and got it to work. I then had to oval the bolt holes in the shifter a little bit to get everything to work nicely.
New bushings in the trans nose cone and shift are mandatory to help keep everything tight. Since the linkage is no longer pushing/pulling straight on the hockey stick, any slop in the bushings is amplified.
User avatar
Big Dave
Posts: 3208
Joined: Tue May 17, 2005 4:31 pm

Post by Big Dave »

takotruckin wrote: only if you get caught!
My car has to pass Utah safety inspection every year (not to mention emissions), so I have to keep all that safety stuff working :(
User avatar
SANDDUDE
Posts: 1617
Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 3:15 pm

Post by SANDDUDE »

I bought this from a swap meet....don't know how it works (never used it yet)

Mooreparts.com has them for $14

Image
*member of SandRail IS running club
*member of Baja is NOT running club
User avatar
Big Dave
Posts: 3208
Joined: Tue May 17, 2005 4:31 pm

Post by Big Dave »

SANDDUDE wrote:I bought this from a swap meet....don't know how it works (never used it yet)

Mooreparts.com has them for $14

Image
I have never heard anyone say anything good about those. They look good though. I had two old coupler cages laying around, so I used them.
Post Reply